Mike.
I am working past Barnes Max charge now by 1 grain, and have a 5 shot group right at 1 MOA, no signs of high pressure. Do I stop here, or refine just above and below
At 1MOA for 5 from a stout recoiling light barreled sporter, you are definately moving into a accuracy node.
The thing to do now is establish the top and bottom of that node and then set your charge in the middle.
This gives you some welcome repeatability and consistency as shooting conditions are changing over time.
If you settle on a charge at the top or the bottom edge of that node, it doesn't take much to fall out and start to scatter(relatively) shots ... leaving you scratching yer head wondering why the rifle don't shoot like it used to.
Often, in my experience, a node is about a half grain wide in small/mid cap. cart's, on up to a grain or so in larger cart's like your 7 mag.
Were it me, I'd load 3 each at 58.7, 59, 59.3, 59.6 grains, to help define that particular node.
Then, I'd go up in pressure and see if there is a higher safe node ... firing single shots, +1/2 grain at a time, to find your own rifles true comfortable max. (more than half-flattened primers in FF'd brass, more than 2 thou. of case stretch, ejector marks on the casehead, harder bolt lift, loosening primer pockets ('cept'n in butter soft Horn. brass) after a few firings ... Any of the above should scream "over max".)
Measuring case head expansion at the web is also a good method to keep track of relative pressure.
Do back off a couple grns and go from there if any of the above signs do occur.
It has often been the case in my world, that the highest safe node is the the best shooter.
As I learned about pressure signs and talked with mentors, I began to realize that there were better nodes a little higher.
Compromise becomes in what you want to stand up to for recoil and punishment on the rifle.
This^.
For me, if my lapua brass is still tight in the primer pocket after 20 reloads, and trimming is not needed often ... 'tis not
too hot.
