Loading 9mm into 38spl case
- Thread starter JB
- Start date
If you have a 38 with a tight barrel you are ok. As said bullets maybe to small in diameter. One thing I have found with guns is shoot and see how it works. I would load a dozen and try.
hometownhero
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Toon Town, Sk
Unless you cast. I load .357" and even .358" in 9mm.
digitalblue
CGN Regular
- Location
- GTA unfortunately
I've loaded both 115gr and 124gr plated bullets in 38 special, surprisingly accurate at moderate ranges (this will heavily depend on your gun).
However, even with a fairly heavy crimp, these smaller bullets have a tendency to "pull" out when the gun is fired.
9mm bullets have no cannelure for the crimp to grab into and the diameter is likely too small for the neck tension to hold the bullet in place.
In my experience, I'll rarely get through a cylinder before the bullets pull out enough to jam the gun.
However, even with a fairly heavy crimp, these smaller bullets have a tendency to "pull" out when the gun is fired.
9mm bullets have no cannelure for the crimp to grab into and the diameter is likely too small for the neck tension to hold the bullet in place.
In my experience, I'll rarely get through a cylinder before the bullets pull out enough to jam the gun.
I was having problems with bullet creep loading 9mm rounds for my 929. I switched to a Lee factory crimp die set, and that worked much better then the Dillon 9mm die set I was using before.
digitalblue
CGN Regular
- Location
- GTA unfortunately
I was using a Lee factory crimp die, had it adjusted almost to the point it would deform the sides of the bullet.
The die only forms the immediate area at the mouth of the case to a taper (no cannelure groove to crimp into), the bullet is still held in with neck tension.
Even with very light loads using 115gr bullets, the recoil was enough to completely pull the last bullet in the cylinder.
How well does your 38 special shoot now??
Something to check out, which happens more than some people think, is the cylinder mouth is to small for the bore diameter.
I've run into this on more than a few Model 10 S&W revolvers.
Especially now, since I've been putting non prohib length barrels on them.
I read an article on one of the internet sites about this condition. It's not usually so bad in 38 calibre pistols but can be a real issue in larger diameters.
The last two pistols I checked, were both on the small side. One was actually .356 diameter and was swaging the lead bullets to small before entering the barrel. No, it wasn't a dangerous situation by any means but it definitely hand an effect on accuracy. That pistol hardly had any use because its previous owner told me he didn't shoot it because he couldn't shoot it well. The bore diameter measured out .3595 in the grooves and the lands were .352.
The revolver was made in the early fifties.
I installed a new barrel made from a 9mm blank. This made a huge difference as far as accuracy went. The pistol now shoots very well indeed.
A good friend of mine and well know smith in the Salmon Arm area, in his eighties was having a similar problem with a S&W Mod 10, about the same vintage. I gave him a six inch piece of that 9mm blank and he installed it on the pistol. It also shot very well after the refit and it could be taken out of the prohib classification.
Barrel diameter and bullet diameter combination makes a big difference in accuracy, especially with lead bullets.
Jacketed bullets can be swaged smaller as well under such conditions.
On the site I was on, the poster was opening up the mouths of cylinders with a special tool he either made up or had made.
OP, depending on the distance you're shooting, there may be enough accuracy to suit your purpose with those 9mm bullets, say 2-3 meters. Because of the swaging effect at the cylinder mouth and the gap, it's not likely that the bullets will be bumped up by the pressure developed to properly fill the grooves.
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Something to check out, which happens more than some people think, is the cylinder mouth is to small for the bore diameter.
I've run into this on more than a few Model 10 S&W revolvers.
Especially now, since I've been putting non prohib length barrels on them.
I read an article on one of the internet sites about this condition. It's not usually so bad in 38 calibre pistols but can be a real issue in larger diameters.
The last two pistols I checked, were both on the small side. One was actually .356 diameter and was swaging the lead bullets to small before entering the barrel. No, it wasn't a dangerous situation by any means but it definitely hand an effect on accuracy. That pistol hardly had any use because its previous owner told me he didn't shoot it because he couldn't shoot it well. The bore diameter measured out .3595 in the grooves and the lands were .352.
The revolver was made in the early fifties.
I installed a new barrel made from a 9mm blank. This made a huge difference as far as accuracy went. The pistol now shoots very well indeed.
A good friend of mine and well know smith in the Salmon Arm area, in his eighties was having a similar problem with a S&W Mod 10, about the same vintage. I gave him a six inch piece of that 9mm blank and he installed it on the pistol. It also shot very well after the refit and it could be taken out of the prohib classification.
Barrel diameter and bullet diameter combination makes a big difference in accuracy, especially with lead bullets.
Jacketed bullets can be swaged smaller as well under such conditions.
On the site I was on, the poster was opening up the mouths of cylinders with a special tool he either made up or had made.
OP, depending on the distance you're shooting, there may be enough accuracy to suit your purpose with those 9mm bullets, say 2-3 meters. Because of the swaging effect at the cylinder mouth and the gap, it's not likely that the bullets will be bumped up by the pressure developed to properly fill the grooves.
TURF THE LIBERALS IN 2019
Liberals really like POOR people, they're making more of them every day
If you can't vote CPC, stay at home in protest
easyrider604
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Greater Vancouver, BC
I had some home cast Lee Mold 9mm 124 grain truncated cone bullets that keyholed in my 9mm pistols.
Instead of remelting them, I tried loading them into 38 spl brass. They were very accurate, no keyholing in my 686 or was it the GP100?...it’s been a while.
These bullets were sized .357 and still they keyholed in my semi autos. Internet research showed this is a common problem with the Lee TC 124 grain mold design.
Instead of remelting them, I tried loading them into 38 spl brass. They were very accurate, no keyholing in my 686 or was it the GP100?...it’s been a while.
These bullets were sized .357 and still they keyholed in my semi autos. Internet research showed this is a common problem with the Lee TC 124 grain mold design.
vagrantviking
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- High River, Alberta
I had that issue with the Lee TC bullet too. Tumbled in my Beretta. Seating long seems to help a bit.
Planning to cast some more and powder coat to try in the Beretta and maybe in 38sp.
Planning to cast some more and powder coat to try in the Beretta and maybe in 38sp.
I've loaded lots of 9 mm, 125 & 147 gn plated bullets into .38 spl & .357 Mag cases. Never had any issues shooting them out of an S&W Mod. 10 (not the .357), or an S&W 686. No creep, no accuracy issues. Shot them side by side, with 158 gn .38 Spl - same grouping at 10 M. Theoretically, it should give a wee bit less recoil, but I couldn't really notice. For those wondering why I did this - the place I was getting my bullets from, didn't have plated .38 Spl at the time and I dislike shooting lead, if I can avoid it. Also, the lighter bullets are a bit less expensive.
