Local Gunsmith - London
- Thread starter MarshallX
- Start date
Do you have the thread cap/protector of the gun once the factory brake is removed?
If so, get a blow torch with MAP Gas fro your local hardware store and use the rosebud nozzle to heat the muzzle brake to almost red hot.
This should heat up what ever thread locker that was installed at the factory.
With a leather glove wrapped around the muzzle brake and a pair of channel locks grip the brake and twit off.
Righty Tighty , Lefty Luci thats for you to figure out
I am not a gunsmith nor do I profess to be one and last but not least I like to fix things till they break...
Seriously though, I had a local g/s remove the brake on a 9mm PCC that was installed and thats all he did, heated the end up closest to the threads and twisted it right off and spun a cap on for me that he made.
That took about a week and a $50.00 bill to cover his costs.
Rob
If so, get a blow torch with MAP Gas fro your local hardware store and use the rosebud nozzle to heat the muzzle brake to almost red hot.
This should heat up what ever thread locker that was installed at the factory.
With a leather glove wrapped around the muzzle brake and a pair of channel locks grip the brake and twit off.
Righty Tighty , Lefty Luci thats for you to figure out
I am not a gunsmith nor do I profess to be one and last but not least I like to fix things till they break...
Seriously though, I had a local g/s remove the brake on a 9mm PCC that was installed and thats all he did, heated the end up closest to the threads and twisted it right off and spun a cap on for me that he made.
That took about a week and a $50.00 bill to cover his costs.
Rob
Im taking off the factory brake to put on an bigger APA brake.
I used the propane torch to head from the brake to the base to 430F (watched with a flir to check temp). Once the area where the threads were reached temp, I tried twisting using a rod through the ports on the brake. No amount of gorilla force gets this brake to turn. Ill try again tomorrow with channel locks and leather. Not sure what remington used to cement this brake on but its definitely one hell of a bonding material.
I used the propane torch to head from the brake to the base to 430F (watched with a flir to check temp). Once the area where the threads were reached temp, I tried twisting using a rod through the ports on the brake. No amount of gorilla force gets this brake to turn. Ill try again tomorrow with channel locks and leather. Not sure what remington used to cement this brake on but its definitely one hell of a bonding material.
nah these radial brakes from the factory dont have a grub screw, but they are notoriously difficult apparently. Some people said the brake is part of the barrel, but looking really close you can see the distinct line between brake and barrel and see the machined muzzle vs internals on the brake.
Impact loosener like kinetic persuasion device? or is this an actual thing? At this point, I'm cool with letting a gunsmith have a go at it, or rebarrel this beech. This thing is overkill adhered to the barrel.
Impact loosener like kinetic persuasion device? or is this an actual thing? At this point, I'm cool with letting a gunsmith have a go at it, or rebarrel this beech. This thing is overkill adhered to the barrel.
WD-40 will cut Loctite. You may have to let it soak for a day or two. If you are not too fond of the present brake (don't care if it is FU when done), hold the barrel in a barrel vise as close as you can to the offending brake and have at the brake with a pipe wrench and a 4 ft pipe. Or again if you are not too fond of the present brake have it machined off.
Do you have the thread cap/protector of the gun once the factory brake is removed?
If so, get a blow torch with MAP Gas fro your local hardware store and use the rosebud nozzle to heat the muzzle brake to almost red hot.
This should heat up what ever thread locker that was installed at the factory.
With a leather glove wrapped around the muzzle brake and a pair of channel locks grip the brake and twit off.
Righty Tighty , Lefty Luci thats for you to figure out
I am not a gunsmith nor do I profess to be one and last but not least I like to fix things till they break...
Seriously though, I had a local g/s remove the brake on a 9mm PCC that was installed and thats all he did, heated the end up closest to the threads and twisted it right off and spun a cap on for me that he made.
That took about a week and a $50.00 bill to cover his costs.
Rob
If you heat any theads to unseize , then ALWAYS let it cool down before trying to unthread. 10 yrs on Cat.'s learned me that.
