Lock repair

Thanks very much. I applied the red lock tight to the threads so I think it will be fine. Another thought was to have it TIG welded but am sure this will work.

Cheers. SJ
 
Hi steve ,sounds like you are having fun. Better get this done before the salmon run! Reading the posts I think you have several good choices as to your fix.Sorry to get OT but I just wanted to say hi .
teddyblue
 
Hahaha. Yes the pressure is definitely on. I have until the middle of October then as soon as that winds down around the beginning of November its deerseason. Life is tough...

SJ
 
mooncoon said:
I have done it differently in the past. I drilled the tumbler hole larger and round then silver soldered a bushing in the new hole and drilled the bushing to the correct diameter. Something similar for a loose hammer. The advantage of silver solder on the hammer is that before starting you can mark the corners of the hole with a small cold chisel

Cheers mooncoon
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this is my first thought
 
I have been out of town for a while so it had to wait but here it is finally. Today I sawed the bolt and filed it down. Not sure if this is a common lock or not but it works great.

alov10.jpg


Once again, thanks for all the great advice. Now, get the nipple out of the barrel....
 
Hello again. Things have been busy but I thought I would share this tidbit. I soaked the breach in Evaporust for 4 days. Then i dried it out and put it on my work bench. I heated the nipple with a torch but was careful not to bring it to red as I was concerned about damage. After that I tapped the nipple lightly and waited about ten minutes before applying penetrating oil. After letting it sit for 3 days ( applying penetrating oil every day ) I put an Easy out into the nipple. I applied steady pressure and then "CRACK" and out it came. The threads look as good as they were when it was made!
Now for the under rib. Its come off so it will require re-soldering.

Cheers.SJ
 
stevejones said:
Now for the under rib. Its come off so it will require re-soldering.
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I tried a new method a few days ago and it seemed to work well. In the past I have tinned the portion of the barrel under the rib and tinned the inside of the rib, then clamped together and added solder from the outside. It works but this time after tinning the underside of the rib, I left a fair bit of excess in the V shaped groove, before clamping the rib in place. Once in place I heated the rib and barrel and the excess solder ran down to fill the seam from the inside. It seemed to work well enough that I will stick with that method next time.
One reason that I tin all of the covered metal is that in effect it galvanizes the metal and prevents soldering flux from attacking the steel barrel and rib. I have a hard enough time getting the solder to run, at times that I don't want to try resin as a flux

cheers mooncoon
 
I am hoping that as the metal is already tinned from the initial installation that once I clean up both surfaces and apply flux I should not have an issue but....Further to the subject of flux, I was going to use regular plumbers flux. Is there a problem using this? I saw a video of a gunsmith re-soldering a rib. He used steel wire wrapped around the barrel and rib at three points to hold the barrel and rib together. To ensure it was tight he pushed nails between the two at each point that the wire was wrapped to apply pressure. I thought this was a clever and simple way to do it. Then he used a propane torch and 50/50 solder and as he heated the area solder was applied along the barrel and rib. Clean up was with a small chisel and the end of a file ground to 45 degrees.

Cheers. SJ
 
stevejones said:
I am hoping that as the metal is already tinned from the initial installation that once I clean up both surfaces and apply flux I should not have an issue but....Further to the subject of flux, I was going to use regular plumbers flux. Is there a problem using this? I saw a video of a gunsmith re-soldering a rib. He used steel wire wrapped around the barrel and rib at three points to hold the barrel and rib together. To ensure it was tight he pushed nails between the two at each point that the wire was wrapped to apply pressure. I thought this was a clever and simple way to do it. Then he used a propane torch and 50/50 solder and as he heated the area solder was applied along the barrel and rib. Clean up was with a small chisel and the end of a file ground to 45 degrees.

Cheers. SJ
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there is only a thin line of solder on the barrel and on the contacting edge of the rib. Ordinary plumbers flux is corrosive and if left on bare metal will rust it. It is my impression that the original soldering job was done with a large copper soldering iron run along the seam, hence only a thin bead of solder.
As found today, the barrel and rib both have lots of small pits in them and it takes a fair bit of sanding / filing to get most it clean. Following that I heat the pieces up separately and rub the solder on with steel wool with flux on it. Simply melting solder on to the metal and rubbing with a small piece of wood with flux on it usually only partially works.
The loops of wire only partially works in my experience. I have not tried it on a rib but I have tried it when soldering 2 barrels together and the wire loops tend to slide and not tighten. Same goes for empty rifle shells with the neck hammered flat to form a wedge. I have come to use home made sort of C clamps for those jobs. For the rib I use more or less a circle of 1/2" steel with a screw through it for pressure and for two barrels, a C clamp with the lower leg long enough to press on both barrels and the screw on the rib.
Also important not to leave lumps of solder along the soldering edge. They hold the rib away from the barrel and then when the solder melts, the rib goes loose and is awkward to clamp down tighter. By storing the solder at the top and sides of the internal cavity, that is not a problem and it runs down to the seam when melted

cheers mooncoon
 
stevejones said:
Thanks very much. I applied the red lock tight to the threads so I think it will be fine. Another thought was to have it TIG welded but am sure this will work.

Cheers. SJ
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Another time, go with the green retaining compound. It makes the red look like silly putty. The warnings about drilling are valid, but you can mitigate much of the risk by going to a very short drill, sharpen it to a flatter angle to minimize the cutting face length and feed it very slowly. Or just set up in a little mill and use an endmill.
 
It appears that both the entire contact surfaces of the barrel and rib have solder on them. I will have another look as it may not be the case. Mooncoon do you have a flux that you recommend?

Thanks. SJ
 
I just use the standard greasy flux but do not use acid core solder, only solid core. If the rib is loose, I would recommend removing the whole rib being careful not to bend it and clean the whole area etc. I recognize that some people glue the loose section back on with various favourite glues but I think that can hide an underlying problem. The fact that the rib is loose often means that water has got under the rib and rusted into the concealed portion of the barrel. I reattached a rib on a fowler about 2 or 3 weeks ago and underneath was a fairly deep pit. Luckily the barrel was fairly thick in that location and the pit relatively small in diameter. I cleaned it out with a Dremel tool and a diamond burr and filled it with high temperature silver solder before resoldering (with soft solder) the rib. The risk of finding deep pitting is my biggest fear when dealing with detached ribs.

cheers mooncoon
 
stevejones said:
The rib is completely off and the area looks rough. When i get back into civilization i will post some more pics.

Cheers. SJ
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the barrel is the easy portion because as long as the pitting is relatively shallow, it can be filed and draw filed away. The inside of the under rib is awkward to file effectively and a small stone on a Dremel tool is a lot more effective along with a diamond burr where you cannot reach with the stone

cheers mooncoon
 
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