long range shooting
- Thread starter delby
- Start date
- Location
- Hillbilly shack in the boonies
That depends on money , and how much you wanna let go for an F-class Rig.
Things to look at,
Boltaction, or single shot
Match barrel, twist to match bullet used( good BC), and Barrel to be on the heavy side.
A good aftermarket stock , HS, Mcmillian , heavy lamo wood stock.
Aftermarket trigger, boyds, timmny ...
Optics, many to look at, 10 power min.
Would keep an eye out for something thats been built already, and up for sale. Caution on barrel life remaining.
Hope this helps.
Things to look at,
Boltaction, or single shot
Match barrel, twist to match bullet used( good BC), and Barrel to be on the heavy side.
A good aftermarket stock , HS, Mcmillian , heavy lamo wood stock.
Aftermarket trigger, boyds, timmny ...
Optics, many to look at, 10 power min.
Would keep an eye out for something thats been built already, and up for sale. Caution on barrel life remaining.
Hope this helps.
- Location
- Hillbilly shack in the boonies
Thats just a class of rifle used in long range target shooting. A heavy barreled composite stocked , bipod mounted , prone shooting sniper rifle. Some good setups on the EE forum in .308 win.
Some good setups on the EE forum in .308 win.
Well you know technically that's not an F-Class rifle, that's a precision class rifle. F-Class is that, but pretty much 'anything goes' as far as sights, stocks, bipods (vices), barrels, etc.Levi Garrett said:Thats just a class of rifle used in long range target shooting. A heavy barreled composite stocked , bipod mounted , prone shooting sniper rifle.
-Rohann
F Class has several sub classes.
F(F) being the original is .308 or .223 shot off a rest or bi-pod any sights with the same bullet weights as Target Rifle,156 gr for .308 and 81 gr for .223F(O) is any rifle allowed for the range, any caliber any sights.
F(M) is the F manufactured class that is anything off the shelf with very few mods allowed.
There are rules for weights for each class and the types of rest allowed i.e. the front and rear rest can not be made from one piece or attached to each other. If a bi-pod is used it must be included in the total weight of the rifle. No vices are allowed.
Complete Rules for F Class can be found on the DRCA web page.
As far as your question about what types of rifles and optics, figure out what sub class of F class you want to shoot, then figure out how much you want to spend.
OR
Get yourself a real Target Rifle with Iron sights and shoot it out to 1000 yards.
This isn't cheap either.
F(F) being the original is .308 or .223 shot off a rest or bi-pod any sights with the same bullet weights as Target Rifle,156 gr for .308 and 81 gr for .223F(O) is any rifle allowed for the range, any caliber any sights.
F(M) is the F manufactured class that is anything off the shelf with very few mods allowed.
There are rules for weights for each class and the types of rest allowed i.e. the front and rear rest can not be made from one piece or attached to each other. If a bi-pod is used it must be included in the total weight of the rifle. No vices are allowed.
Complete Rules for F Class can be found on the DRCA web page.
As far as your question about what types of rifles and optics, figure out what sub class of F class you want to shoot, then figure out how much you want to spend.
OR
Get yourself a real Target Rifle with Iron sights and shoot it out to 1000 yards.
This isn't cheap either.
You may be interested in long range BPCR shooting which is done to 1000meters or more with old style single shot rifles and iron sights, popular cals. are 45/70, 45/90, 45/100 etc. made by Shiloh Sharps, C. Sharps, or Italian copies of the '74 Sharps, or '85 Highwall . These same guns and cals. can be used for BP Silhouette shot at up to 500 meters.
Mystic Precision
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Summerland, BC
For simplicity and economy, I would recommend a Savage FV or FP blued action in 243. Bed the action properly and free float the barrel. There really is nothing wrong with the factory plastic stock once the action is bedded and barrel free floated. Get that accutrigger as light as possible and load straight ammo for it (Lee collet neck dies).
The BVSS is nice but will add some bucks. However, it is already accessoried with a very nice lam stock and fluted barrel. I shoot with a guy that does very well at 1000m with his BVSS and Lapua 90 or 95gr Scenars. He is right now working on a 87gr Vmax load for coyotes and is driving them into one fat hole at 100yds. I have used the Vmax in a 6BR to hammer clay pigeons out to 800yds with little issue.
For optics, I think the Elite 4200 6X24 mildot is superb when used with Burris Sig rings and inserts. Awesome optics and mechanicals but not too much internal elevation adjustment (why you need the Burris rings to shim). Using the mil dots and shimming the scope, there is little reason why the 243 cannot go from 100yds to 1500yds.
The 6mm is the least expensive cal to shoot and does extremely well at LR. The bigger bores like the 6.5 and 7 can be better ballistically, but recoil, costs and availability are tougher. Unfortunately, Savage does not make a factory 260 or 7-08 HB. Sorry, but I feel the 308 is simply a ballistics dog when you compare recoil vs ballistics vs costs.
The Nikon Buckmaster 4X14 and 6X18 side focus are also awesome scopes. They will be coming out with a BDC reticle as mildot export is not easy. There is a fair amount of internal adjustment in these scopes and they come with proper target turrents. Less money then the Elites too.
The Weaver V line is apparently quite good. Not looked at any of the new gen scopes but reports have been favorable and the pricing is good. Same goes for Sightron but again, zero first hand experience.
If you want a fixed 10X, the Elite 3200 is the best buy on the planet. Lots of elevation, very useable optics, dead reliable turrents (equal to any at any price).
From here, you can spend as much as several thousand for your optics.
Jerry
The BVSS is nice but will add some bucks. However, it is already accessoried with a very nice lam stock and fluted barrel. I shoot with a guy that does very well at 1000m with his BVSS and Lapua 90 or 95gr Scenars. He is right now working on a 87gr Vmax load for coyotes and is driving them into one fat hole at 100yds. I have used the Vmax in a 6BR to hammer clay pigeons out to 800yds with little issue.
For optics, I think the Elite 4200 6X24 mildot is superb when used with Burris Sig rings and inserts. Awesome optics and mechanicals but not too much internal elevation adjustment (why you need the Burris rings to shim). Using the mil dots and shimming the scope, there is little reason why the 243 cannot go from 100yds to 1500yds.
The 6mm is the least expensive cal to shoot and does extremely well at LR. The bigger bores like the 6.5 and 7 can be better ballistically, but recoil, costs and availability are tougher. Unfortunately, Savage does not make a factory 260 or 7-08 HB. Sorry, but I feel the 308 is simply a ballistics dog when you compare recoil vs ballistics vs costs.
The Nikon Buckmaster 4X14 and 6X18 side focus are also awesome scopes. They will be coming out with a BDC reticle as mildot export is not easy. There is a fair amount of internal adjustment in these scopes and they come with proper target turrents. Less money then the Elites too.
The Weaver V line is apparently quite good. Not looked at any of the new gen scopes but reports have been favorable and the pricing is good. Same goes for Sightron but again, zero first hand experience.
If you want a fixed 10X, the Elite 3200 is the best buy on the planet. Lots of elevation, very useable optics, dead reliable turrents (equal to any at any price).
From here, you can spend as much as several thousand for your optics.
Jerry
Terry Perkins
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Bruce County
delby,
How much are you willing to spend?
How much are you willing to spend?
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I'm doing some research into the Savage 12BVSS and came across this thread. It would be great to get something that's capable of 1000 yards, but I live in the lower mainland, and am wondering where one can go to shoot beyond 200-300 yards? Someplace within reasonable driving distance?
Mystic Precision
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Summerland, BC
Join the BCRA and you can shoot at Chilliwack to 600m. There will be several events there this year both tactical and F class. Not sure what their range time is like but this is some of the best competition in Western Canada for their discipline.
Jerry
Jerry
Lots of good advice. I went through a similar decision recently, and the main point in getting good at long range shooting, is trigger time - you must shoot, and shoot alot. Based on this, I decided to go with a .308 winchester. Heres why:
At first I planned to go with a 6mm (.243) [I love the 6mm Remington], but found that for most longrange shooting, heavier 105-115 grain bullets (high BC) are the standard, and you need a 1-8" or 1-9" twist barrel for this. This rifle twist does not come from the factory (e.g., Remington, savage etc.), so if you go the 6mm route, and are serious about 600m +, you may need to re-barrel your rifle to a fast twist. Further, barrel life on 6mm is somewhat short (2000 rounds), so factor in the replacement of barrels in your decision.
Taking all this into consideration, I ended up going with a .308 Winchester. The ammo is very affordable, barrel life is very good (5000 + rounds) and 600 m (to 1000 m +) is no problem with a variety of bullets. The 1-10' twist that is required comes in most factory rifles, and shoot all you want - burning out the barrel will be a challenge.
At first I planned to go with a 6mm (.243) [I love the 6mm Remington], but found that for most longrange shooting, heavier 105-115 grain bullets (high BC) are the standard, and you need a 1-8" or 1-9" twist barrel for this. This rifle twist does not come from the factory (e.g., Remington, savage etc.), so if you go the 6mm route, and are serious about 600m +, you may need to re-barrel your rifle to a fast twist. Further, barrel life on 6mm is somewhat short (2000 rounds), so factor in the replacement of barrels in your decision.
Taking all this into consideration, I ended up going with a .308 Winchester. The ammo is very affordable, barrel life is very good (5000 + rounds) and 600 m (to 1000 m +) is no problem with a variety of bullets. The 1-10' twist that is required comes in most factory rifles, and shoot all you want - burning out the barrel will be a challenge.
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- Location
- Somewhere on the Hudson Bay Coast
Either the .243 or the .308 are good choices from an economic point of view. The cheaper the ammo the more you can shoot, the more you shoot the faster you improve.
I just read an interesting article in Precision Shooting where the author chose a factory Howa Varmint rifle in .243 Winchester for competition. We don't hear much about Howa here, and that might be worth checking out.
I thought Nightforce scopes would be the top choice for precision work, but in the article from PS, the author stated that the paper work included with his new Nightforce scope recommends against the use of dovetail mounts, or mounts with built in windage adjustments. I would not use such mounts on a precision rifle, however many do, and it does lead to questions concerning the integrity of the Nightforce construction.
My own scope has been criticized in great detail in some of these threads, but it works for me, and I do not intend to change it any time soon. It is the Springfield Professional 6-20X56. There is not really enough vertical adjustment, however due to the mounting, the scope shoots to zero at 100 yards when the adjustment is bottomed out. The focus adjustment is on the front of the scope rather than on a turret, oh well, and I never use the illuminated reticle. On the plus side, it does has a mil dot reticle which has proven useful, but the best feature, and the feature which prevents me from trading the scope off is the "in view" level which appears just below the vertical wire. This single feature has improved my long range shooting more than any other. Yes there are levels which attach to the outside of the scope, but this one is right in your field of view, and you do not have to shift your focus away from your aiming point in order to see it.
If I was to purchase a scope today, and cost was not an issue I would choose between US Optics, Schmidt and Bender, and Nightforce. If I was budget minded, I would choose a Leupold, their fixed power target scopes are very nice, but a variable like the 4.5-14X would be better on days with thick mirage. Half the scopes I own are Leupold, and I am of the opinion when in doubt you can't go wrong with one of their products.
I just read an interesting article in Precision Shooting where the author chose a factory Howa Varmint rifle in .243 Winchester for competition. We don't hear much about Howa here, and that might be worth checking out.
I thought Nightforce scopes would be the top choice for precision work, but in the article from PS, the author stated that the paper work included with his new Nightforce scope recommends against the use of dovetail mounts, or mounts with built in windage adjustments. I would not use such mounts on a precision rifle, however many do, and it does lead to questions concerning the integrity of the Nightforce construction.
My own scope has been criticized in great detail in some of these threads, but it works for me, and I do not intend to change it any time soon. It is the Springfield Professional 6-20X56. There is not really enough vertical adjustment, however due to the mounting, the scope shoots to zero at 100 yards when the adjustment is bottomed out. The focus adjustment is on the front of the scope rather than on a turret, oh well, and I never use the illuminated reticle. On the plus side, it does has a mil dot reticle which has proven useful, but the best feature, and the feature which prevents me from trading the scope off is the "in view" level which appears just below the vertical wire. This single feature has improved my long range shooting more than any other. Yes there are levels which attach to the outside of the scope, but this one is right in your field of view, and you do not have to shift your focus away from your aiming point in order to see it.
If I was to purchase a scope today, and cost was not an issue I would choose between US Optics, Schmidt and Bender, and Nightforce. If I was budget minded, I would choose a Leupold, their fixed power target scopes are very nice, but a variable like the 4.5-14X would be better on days with thick mirage. Half the scopes I own are Leupold, and I am of the opinion when in doubt you can't go wrong with one of their products.
