I have just acquired a Luger P08 K Date that was unfortunately hot salt reblue in the past. I am considering having it restored to its original condition as close as possible with slow rust finish, straw and fire blued parts, etc. Can somebody recommend me a gunsmith with experience in that kind of restoration project?
Looking after a gunsmith with experience in slow rust finish
- Thread starter sam game
- Start date
Something to consider is the cost... versus what it will be worth when completed... How original will it look with a quality rust blue finish?
How "damaged" were the original markings on the hot blue refinish? Were there pits that required removal before it was re-blued. How is the bore?
Some guys spend a lot in restorations... it would be easy to spend $1000.
How "damaged" were the original markings on the hot blue refinish? Were there pits that required removal before it was re-blued. How is the bore?
Some guys spend a lot in restorations... it would be easy to spend $1000.
Just get a smith to apply a "NEIDNER" type blue.
It's almost black in appearance and indistinguishable from the blue you want. Straw color can be hit and miss, even when experienced people do it.
Google Neidner Blue, there will be a recipe
It's almost black in appearance and indistinguishable from the blue you want. Straw color can be hit and miss, even when experienced people do it.
Google Neidner Blue, there will be a recipe
I assume you've already found this guy?
https://lugerman.com/restorations/mauser-s42-luger-1938-wwii-9mm-army-p-08/
That said, straw and rust blue are the sort of thing you can do yourself, if you're inclined. The hard part is the prep. If you're not skilled with paper & polish, maybe there's someone local who is, and you could complete the finish in your kitchen? Just a thought.
https://lugerman.com/restorations/mauser-s42-luger-1938-wwii-9mm-army-p-08/
That said, straw and rust blue are the sort of thing you can do yourself, if you're inclined. The hard part is the prep. If you're not skilled with paper & polish, maybe there's someone local who is, and you could complete the finish in your kitchen? Just a thought.
Y'know, you can throw bushel baskets of money at it, but it still will always be a refinished gun.
Shoot the living hell out of it, have fun, and if you really need a perfect, all original gun, buy one.
Or learn to do the work yourself, and at least you will be out some money in materials, rather than paying a whole lot for a lot of a 'Smith's time.
Shoot the living hell out of it, have fun, and if you really need a perfect, all original gun, buy one.
Or learn to do the work yourself, and at least you will be out some money in materials, rather than paying a whole lot for a lot of a 'Smith's time.
The problem with that thought is even if one were quite skilled to start with. it may still take years of developing that skill to get to high quality level... the thought that one can just learn to do it so quickly is ludicrous.
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Gentlemen, thanks to all and everyone for your comments and feedback, much appreciated. I absolutely agree that restoring this K Date close to its original condition with slow rust finish, straw and fire blue parts wont't improve its market value of one cent. 12(6) handgun is a dying market anyway. Shooter it is now, shooter it will remain after restoration. It's just a personal choice. All original K Dates in reasonable codition are hard to find. I have been collecting Lugers for years and never found one in really nice all original condition here in Canada. If I want one close to its original condition, it seems I'll have to put some water in my wine...
By the way, Lugerman is located in USA, so it's impossible to ship a 12(6) handgun over there and expect it to be allowed in Canada again!
By the way, Lugerman is located in USA, so it's impossible to ship a 12(6) handgun over there and expect it to be allowed in Canada again!
Yeah, it occurred to me after having posted, that there might be some issue with shipping. Sorry.
Who said anything about quickly?
I learned to do a lot of stuff from books, but mostly, by doing, and re-doing stuff until I was satisfied with the results.
Start with some basic file and sandpaper finishing, and work towards it.
Like I said, it'll never be more than a refinished gun, so it's main value is in the shooting. Money spent on making it original won't likely ever come back to the guy who spent it. The original milling marks and the original markings, they ain't coming back ever. Though there ARE sources for just about any stamp you might wish to forge-reproduce-duplicate, if you spend enough time and money looking.
Polish and rust blue a couple Cooey's and if nothing else, you learn to appreciate the work involved and the time that is on the table when the bill comes due to get someone else to do it.
I will suggest that a fella could do a lot worse than to start by watching some of the Clickspring videos on YouTube. He makes and case hardens files, does heat bluing of screws (directly applicable to the straw colors on the Luger springs, etc.) and a bunch of other hand finishing work.
Doing the whole gun will take hours of work, but sitting down and doing one piece, then the next, each evening for a while, is a lot less like punishment.
Here's what I know to be true.
A flat surface that you wish to remain flat, requires a firm or hard backing to the abrasive paper. Blurred over edges look like hell and are so eye catching.
Pick a backing material that suits the work. I have used hard and soft rubber for curved surfaces, blocks of plexiglass for flat ones. Have wrapped abrasive paper around files or any other convenient shaped object as well.
You need to pay attention to the details, but step away once in a while and return to the work. Staring at it up close for a while, makes you hyper critical as you have time to see EVERY little imperfection, some of which, you won't live long enough to remove. Trust me when I say that as the guy doing the polishing, you will see EVERY little thing wrong, it's because you spent the last hour staring at it, not because it is really wrong!
Buffing wheels have their place in the grand scheme, but polishing up parts that are supposed to look like they have nice smooth curves and edges that are straight, isn't that place. Seriously. You can do more damage in less time with a buffing wheel, than with almost any other tool you might choose to use except maybe a cutting torch or angle grinder. Skip the 'speed' tools.
A picture of the gun as it is now would be nice to see, a lot of time the prep/ pre finish work done, will have most to do with what the finish will look like, I am not up on the K Lugers I presume a mid gloss, not a hi gloss finish? I have a bottle of " Classic American Rust Bluing Solution" by The Pinkington Gun Co I did a little derringer with yrs ago.There is sheet with it somewhere/, contains nitric acid and nitrosyl chloride ( what ever that is?) it was slow, worked good
I would check, as it is already registered in Canada , you may be able to ship to US, never tried it, You could phone CFC or your CFO, boarder guys could be a problem, as usual.
I would check, as it is already registered in Canada , you may be able to ship to US, never tried it, You could phone CFC or your CFO, boarder guys could be a problem, as usual.
