Looking for a non-toxic shotshell component source

Longshot338

Longshot338

CGN Regular
Rating - 100%
84   0   0
Location
Southern Ontario
Hello all,

I am looking for a source for components for non-toxic shotshells. Particularly BP#47 buffer, mylar wraps, and bismuth shot. I live in the Guelph area; local is preferred. Does anyone know who sells these items? My usual sources don't stock these...

Thanks guys!
Alec
 
By the way; I am new to reloading non-toxic. I ha e reloaded thousands of trap loads and a wide variety of hunting loads. But this Hevi-Shot and Bismuth are totally new. Any tips?
 
Hevi shot is very very hard, you want to be extra careful to use the mylar wraps and proper wads to fully contain it or it WILL scratch your barrel. It is wonderful deadly stuff on high flying geese, even in "small" sizes like #4.
Bismuth can be brittle, and a few pellets can shatter on firing. Buffer is a good idea to keep shattering of the bottom pellets in the shot cup to a minimum. I find it patterns better with moderate speed loads, not super fast loads. 1250 fps or so. It is a bit more bulky than lead, and you need to use bismuth specific data and shot bushings for that reason. I like the adjustable shot / powder bar on my Mec loader for loading bismuth, shot settings are about 8% more volume than lead for same weight. Hevi shot is the opposite, heavier than lead and I find it doesn't meter well so I hand scoop, weigh and load one at a time.
 
I have read the Lyman book intro chapter to Hevi-Shot. Same advice as you gave me; I will definitely pay heed.

There are these "extra-thick" mylar wraps. I think I will use them. I would rather have a very slightly reduced volume of shot and protect my barrel.

One thing I have read is that a proper crimp is important for proper ignition and consistent pressure. Any tips for tweaking load height in the event I find a recipe to be under/over filled?

How about Mica Slick Wad Dust? I have heard it assists with consistent pressures. Any experience with it?

Thanks for the great advice so far!
Alec
 
What about shot size?

Right now I am shooting #2. I did extensive pattern testing with chokes and brands. I found a 3" Federal Black Cloud #2 gives me the best patterns. #2 does well for me. I need a shot size that is big enough to kill geese inside 30m, and a dense enough pattern for the ducks. I don't switch ammo for ducks vs. geese; often they will come in together. I dont like being loaded for geese with BB when ducks come in; I am too busy calling and watching them to unload my gun and reload with #4. That is why I shoot #2 for steel.

What shot size in Hevi-Shot will suffice as a dual purpose load? Will #2 be the one to go for again? If I switch to #4, will it kill geese at 30m efficiently?

Alec
 
Folded up a pair of big Canada's a couple nights ago at about 45 yards with #2 Hevi-Metal.....#3 works too............Harold
 
I shoot multi species and don't change shells either. Both bismuth and Hevi ( tungsten iron) shot types are heavier than steel = more deadly because of better penetration. In my experience, #4 bismuth would work as well as #2 steel, and would give denser patterns too. You could actually go as small as #6 Hevi shot for the same penetration as #2 steel. I have killed snow geese stone cold dead in the air at 40 yards several times with a 16 ga shooting just an ounce of #6 Hevi shot and modified choke. #4 Hevi shot is a good multi purpose multi range choice, good pattern density for mallards and big enough to fully penetrate a Greater Canada at 50 yards. But I usually use bismuth 4's or 2's, I like that I can put a bismuth pellet though my grinder or bite a pellet and do no tooth damage.
 
Fwiw"........
I am a user of itx original 10 for all my waterfowling loads.
All my component are ordered though bilozor /bpi.
While expensive, I justify by looking at how many times I get out per season vs cost.
I wait all year for this!!
I use wad slick on all my loads. Target as well as hunting.
Don't know if it matters a lot but for the price------
Makes wads seat easier when loading on high volume equipment .
 
Thanks a lot for the helpful responses guys!

Right now I am still trying to decide between #2 and #4 shot.

One last question; has anyone ever used the Extra-Thick Mylar wraps? I like the idea of added barrel protection, but I dont want it to mess with my shot column heights and my crimp quality too much. will it be an issue?

Alec
 
Why mylar wraps??? today's 1-piece plastic wads negated the need for wraps except for those still using card and fiber wads which is very few today.
I have been reloading steel and bismuth for years in plastic wads with zero issues other than the original bismuth being banned a few years ago and production stopped and just maybe in the last year or so reintroduced as new and improved but I have yet to see any of it in canada
Remember wraps increases pressures also so one has to be carefuil and unless called for in the receipe I would not use them
With the high speed steel reloads one can produce today I have no requirement for hevi shot and only bismuth in vintage guns. Dead is dead and even steel today kills just fine
Cheers
 
Mylar wraps are used according to BPI data, and according to them they can be added or left out with no affect on pressure. They are simply a way to help ensure that no pellet ever escapes the shot cup to score the barrel. Even one tiny bit of the often mis-shaped and super hard Tungsten-iron shot poking between the petals of a "steel" wad on its flight down the bore will scratch a shotgun bore. I prefer to be safer, not sorry when it comes to scratching barrels. There may be no "requirement" for hevi shot in 12 ga waterfowl guns because of all the good high speed steel loads available. Things change dramatically when you go down in bore size. Heavi shot really shines in the 16 ga and 20 ga guns that I favour for mixed bag hunts. It IS far more deadly than any steel load in these smaller bores.
 
Longwalker said:
Mylar wraps are used according to BPI data, and according to them they can be added or left out with no affect on pressure. They are simply a way to help ensure that no pellet ever escapes the shot cup to score the barrel. Even one tiny bit of the often mis-shaped and super hard Tungsten-iron shot poking between the petals of a "steel" wad on its flight down the bore will scratch a shotgun bore. I prefer to be safer, not sorry when it comes to scratching barrels. There may be no "requirement" for hevi shot in 12 ga waterfowl guns because of all the good high speed steel loads available. Things change dramatically when you go down in bore size. Heavi shot really shines in the 16 ga and 20 ga guns that I favour for mixed bag hunts. It IS far more deadly than any steel load in these smaller bores.
Click to expand...

Pretty clear that you have never reloaded with any type of wrap so best join one of the other forums and talk to the guys that might still do in the smaller gauges. BPI doesn't tell you if they had a good one piece wad like others they would not need to even talk wraps
I am not aware of anyone using it for small gauges here but if they are maybe they will chime in

Since you mention one of my most favorite gauges the 16 do a bit of reading here and then see what you think
Fix the link and there are other discussions on mylar if you search. Mylar is not the bomb and great protector you think
Be careful since we are not dealing with target load pressures when reloading non tox
Cheers

http://ww w.16ga.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9247&sid=b458f156fa90d6f5c76f1a5c825a3289
 
Last edited:
3macs, Mylar wrap would certainly raise pressures the added to a fiber wad load and would not provide adequate protection from hard pellets. Thanks for pointing that out. I was not clear enough in my original post on this matter. I actually have loaded a reasonable amount of shells with mylar wraps, IN SHOT CUPS - but not in the way discussed above on the 16ga. society discussion board. I used them as BPI directed, as an extra measure of protection within their excellent Guilandi PT1680 (formerly VP80) Multi-Metal wad for 16a. The wad is slit part way down, and the mylar wrap is inserted IN the shot cup. Then an appropriate charge of Tungsten-Iron shot is added. The discussion you refer to above is about using mylar alone without shot cup, which is not what I meant and is not a practise that I condone.
 
Longwalker said:
3macs, Mylar wrap would certainly raise pressures the added to a fiber wad load and would not provide adequate protection from hard pellets. Thanks for pointing that out. I was not clear enough in my original post on this matter. I actually have loaded a reasonable amount of shells with mylar wraps, IN SHOT CUPS - but not in the way discussed above on the 16ga. society discussion board. I used them as BPI directed, as an extra measure of protection within their excellent Guilandi PT1680 (formerly VP80) Multi-Metal wad for 16a. The wad is slit part way down, and the mylar wrap is inserted IN the shot cup. Then an appropriate charge of Tungsten-Iron shot is added. The discussion you refer to above is about using mylar alone without shot cup, which is not what I meant and is not a practise that I condone.
Click to expand...

Cool. I feel better now. :) I just didnot want you to have a potential incident
I have a ton of 16ga's and have been reloading them even back in the fiber wad days
Now if they have to see non tox it is bismuth which is from a stash I must have bought 10 years ago.

All the best
Joe
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom