Looking for a smith that can true up a T3 action.

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I did a quick search on here and came up empty.

Does anyone know of a Gunsmith that can true a Tikka t3?

A little background, I picked up a T3 SS in .243 to turn into a 22-250, before I had it rebarreled I shot it a bunch and accuracy was pretty awful. It then went out and had a Kreiger installed. It shoots a lot better like 1"@100, I was expecting it to shoot in the .2-.3s. Anyway, I'd like to get the thing trued so I can scratch that off the list.
 
Are you putting another barrel on it? Usually you do the true-up before installing the new barrel.

What kind of ammo are you shooting? Might not be a case of the barrel or action being an issue.
 
I just put this barrel on...not really looking forward to shooting a couple thousand rounds at 1" before fixing it.

The ammo is fine. It's homemade.

It's also bedded, titanium lug, in a wildcat stock.
 
I don't think I have ever installed a match quality barrel in the smaller cartridges that did not shoot 1/2" regardless whether the action was trued or not. Even crappy old Mauser's.

I doubt the 'trueness' of your action is the problem with only getting 1 inch groups.
 
Unless there is a discernible imperfection in the action (bolt face not square, striker hanging up, one lug not contacting, etc.) all the truing in the world won't make a difference; it certainly won't turn a 1" rifle into a .3 rifle. Now, there is a possibility that the bedding is flawed and this would be a much more likely cause of inaccuracy than an action which is or is not true. When it comes to truing up a Tikka, I suspect most gunsmiths would be likely to pass although it wouldn't be a big job to do once the fixture was set up.
In the end, I think your problem is with bedding or barrel.
 
My suspicions would lie in throat alignment with the bore. If your gunsmith chambered the rifle with a reamer pilot that was a margin smaller than the minor bore diameter then its highly possible that the bullets get off to a crooked start. This and the crown should be studied with a bore scope before you hand over any money in an attempt to improve the Tikka receiver. David.
 
I have and have had, Tikka T3's some factory some re-barreled, all will go 0.3 to 0.4 moa (5 shot groups at long distance)with proper handloads, none have been trued.

One item that gets overlooked is the 'return to battery' recoil lug. The over sized lugs in the after market negate this feature as does some bedding jobs.

This could be why your rifle will only print 1 moa.
 
What caliber are you shooting?
What scope and mounts?
I would be more suspect of scope issues or reloading issues than the action needing to be trued up.
1” @ 100 is below normal accuracy any factory Tikka T3 I have had...
 
I just put this barrel on...not really looking forward to shooting a couple thousand rounds at 1" before fixing it.

The ammo is fine. It's homemade.

It's also bedded, titanium lug, in a wildcat stock.

How do you know it's fine? Just because it's homemade doesn't really mean anything. If I was inclined, I could make some pretty terrible/inaccurate reloads lol.

Just to rule it out: could you tell us a little more about your reloads? Bullets, brass, powder, etc.
 
How do you know it's fine? Just because it's homemade doesn't really mean anything. If I was inclined, I could make some pretty terrible/inaccurate reloads lol.

Just to rule it out: could you tell us a little more about your reloads? Bullets, brass, powder, etc.

Shooting from bench? Bipod? Rest? Over the hood of a truck?
What load development did you do?
Reloading practices? What kind of dies? Scale? Etc

As said above there are many other variables that should be ruled out before screwing off the barrel again.
 
How do you know it's fine? Just because it's homemade doesn't really mean anything. If I was inclined, I could make some pretty terrible/inaccurate reloads lol.

Just to rule it out: could you tell us a little more about your reloads? Bullets, brass, powder, etc.

I was going to say the same. Are they "homemade" by you with brass fired from that gun? Have you done proper load development? Played with different components and seating depth? If your just shooting ammo that someone else loaded or that you just threw together then 1" is about all you can expect at best.
 
Buy a box of quality factory ammo and see what happens. Id also be inclined to think bedding to be a possible issue. Ive put rem style recoil lugs on sakos to avoid the crappy recoil lug design on the tikka. Most factory tikkas ive seen will shoot well under an inch something is amiss for sure.
 
View attachment 127064Well I kinda figured the thread might go this way.

Most accurate reloads to date are, Lapua brass with a skim taken off with an outside neck turner, just to true up, sized in a redding bushing neck die with .250 bushing. CCI BR2 primer, Varget, 55 berger flat base target jammed 10 thou.

I shoot off Protektor leather with a stack of rubber blocks under the front bag, I bought the blocks off a guy at a Kamloops F-class match, can't seem to remember his name at the moment. Anyhow...very stable set up.

Bedding I did myself, I think its solid. Very tight fit, I taped between the lug and the action when I did it, not bottoming out on it. When I tighten the screws I take the front one till it just touches, then run the back one in. It has no resistence until it touches the DBM then both go a quarter turn or so to tight. In other words, I'm not bending the action with the screws.
 
That answers a lot of the questions

I’m not an expert but I would be suspect of the scope and or mounts.
Did a reputable smith do the rebarrel job?
 
Yes, very reputable. His work is not in question. Scope and mounts are fine/have swapped scopes. Ring/bases are talley one piece loctite and torqued to spec.

I truly believe it's something off in the action, lug contact, something. The factory rifle with factory ammo shot 4-5" groups at 100 without a word of a lie.
 
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