Looking for a smith that can true up a T3 action.

Make sure you have plenty of clearance in the bolt holes in the stock to the action screws. If you are not using one use a torque driver and try playing with action screw torque. Have you tried a different scope on it? what scope and mounting system? Trigger has good clearance to the stock/bedding? what do the back of the lugs look like? could try cleaning the lugs and putting some sharpie or prussian blue on them and checking the contact.
 
Scope is a bushnell elite, have swapped with a vortex viper same same, good clearance around trigger, clearance in bolt holes. Using torque driver (changing torque is a myth or a product of poor bedding?).

The sharpie idea is good, I'll try that thanks. Do I need to fire a round with this test, or will it show just cycling?
 
cdn shooter said:
View attachment 127064Well I kinda figured the thread might go this way.

Most accurate reloads to date are, Lapua brass with a skim taken off with an outside neck turner, just to true up, sized in a redding bushing neck die with .250 bushing. CCI BR2 primer, Varget, 55 berger flat base target jammed 10 thou.

I shoot off Protektor leather with a stack of rubber blocks under the front bag, I bought the blocks off a guy at a Kamloops F-class match, can't seem to remember his name at the moment. Anyhow...very stable set up.

Bedding I did myself, I think its solid. Very tight fit, I taped between the lug and the action when I did it, not bottoming out on it. When I tighten the screws I take the front one till it just touches, then run the back one in. It has no resistence until it touches the DBM then both go a quarter turn or so to tight. In other words, I'm not bending the action with the screws.
Click to expand...

Do you know the neck diameter of the reamer used?

Have you confirmed that the bullet will fall easily into a fired case?

When I was competing with the 223, I ran 10 thou neck thickness. I am ball parking your brass around 13 to 14 thou?

That sounds very thick to me unless the reamer has been sized accordingly.

Simple check... nice work on the bedding by the way

Jerry
 
Interesting find, so I have checked this before. Actually have another Shilen barreled 22-250 that needs necks turned to 10-11 thou.

Bullets have a slight resistance just starting into the neck then it goes with no resistence to the base of the neck where it stops hard. This is the lapua brass. The winchester brass has the resistance at the case mouth like the lapua but once past it just falls in.

Wonder if the case is to long for the chamber...even though they're in spec?
 
Another question what is the twist rate on that gun? Good call with the neck expansion Jerry. What is the fired diameter of the necks vs full length sized? I know lapua had a bit of deviation in neck thickness on some lots of 6br stuff not that long ago. If you dont own case comparitors another trick you could try to see where the brass is in relation to the headspace of the gun is pull the ejector and put layers of tape on the base of the brass until you cant get the bolt to close on the case then measure the tape should give you a pretty good idea of where it is in relation to the chamber.
 
I can't recall where, but I remember being told that Tikka bolt heads are hardened, and you can't bush the firing pin hole because of that. If so, that may complicate the truing process.
 
cdn shooter said:
Interesting find, so I have checked this before. Actually have another Shilen barreled 22-250 that needs necks turned to 10-11 thou.

Bullets have a slight resistance just starting into the neck then it goes with no resistence to the base of the neck where it stops hard. This is the lapua brass. The winchester brass has the resistance at the case mouth like the lapua but once past it just falls in.

Wonder if the case is to long for the chamber...even though they're in spec?
Click to expand...

http://www.accurateshooter.com/technical-articles/cartridgediagrams/

Go down to the 22-250 SAAMI drawing... as you can see the neck of this chamber is supposed to be tapered. 254" nominal at the front... 256" at the base. With 250" chambered rds, you have way too little clearance AND the brass is jamming at the mouth... why it is tight to get a bullet started. AND then easy once you get past the mouth

For the Lapua brass, you likely have created donuts at the base already. The bullet should fall freely into the case..... even if a slip fit, there should be no resistance or tight spots.

I would turn the necks... most 22cals speced 10 to 11 thou thick necks in their SAAMI drawings

Even though it comes out of the box headstamped for a chamber, it may not be a proper fit to the REAMER.

And SAAMI reamers can vary... so always check clearance.. Assume nothing... measure everything.

I bet if you create more neck clearance, things will settle down nicely.

Jerry
 
Thanks Jerry, yeah I'll turn some and give it a try. Just scored 500 new/old stock Win cases so I've got lots to experiment with.

Still looking for someone that can true this thing. I plan on ceracote soon, I'd like to have it done beforehand.
 
if you muck with the receiver, you may not be able to use the barrel as currently threaded.

Do you see any issues with the fired brass? runout... not straight as in tilting over?

Rub marks on the case head? Any brass lines on the bolt face?

Look on the bolt lugs, any uneven wear? Clean, rub jiffy marker and cycle... anything uneven?

You can have very good accuracy even if the bolt face is not perfectly true with the chamber.... the fired brass will be cockeyed... that's pretty much it. As long as the lugs make solid contact with the receiver so the bolt head doesn't bend, it can be made to work.

So I would look for signs things aren't true/aligned before worrying/assuming it isn't.

Jerry
 
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