Looking for info on home parkerizing

caporal

caporal

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Amos,Quebec
Hi

As title says i'm looking for info on home parkerizing.

A saw many on the web, a lot of people have a lots of "tricks" on how to do it but i'm looking for someone who actually try it. Are those kits any goods, worth the price???

Photos welcome

Caporal
 
I park'd some small parts (sight, flash hider ect.) with a solution from these guys

pjsproducts.com/radocy.htm

I was very impressed with the simplicity and end results. Enough so much, that I was contemplating doing an entire revolver.
Lack of spare time and failure to figure out how to plug the bbl and cylinder chambers precluded pursuing that project further.

Check PJS out. They have good stuff.

M
 
That is the product I use. Whole guns. Very easy to use, excellent results. I blast, degrease, rinse, and into the tank. When the colour is right, rinse, dry, oil. I don't like the idea of parking bores, so I plug barrels.
 
Used PJ's over 10 years ago or more on this M1 trigger group, still looks as good today.
m1parked.jpg
 
I use the DuraCoat Parkerizing Manganese solution. Back when i bought it it was the only one i knew of and could get locally.
I assume Pj's is just as good. They probably follow all the same basic recipe.

The way i do it is as follow... again i suppose others might do it a bit differently but the basic principle is the same.
1- Clean/degrease
2- Sandblast with aluminum oxide (dont touch the part with your bare hands after it is blasted)
3- Hang parts on a steel wire (make sure the wire is steel and also degrease it before)
3- Clean and boil in hot tap water for 5 mins (longer and you might get rust)
4- Hang into park solution for 15 mins (solution should be at 90 c so a stainless cooking thermometer is a must)
5- Clean in boiling water for 2-3 mins tops (again, longer and you will get flash rust.
6- Spray with WD-40 making sure to get into any holes or corners that could retain water (WD-40 is a great water repellant, kinda cheap and can be found anywhere. It gives me good results.
7- Let hang and drip for 24 hrs and oil with your favorite firearm oil.

Small parts such as screws, pins, etc i do in a stainless steel kitchen pasta strainer i bought at the dollar store.
Anything i can hang from a wire i do... this gives the best results, the solutions flows freely around the parts.
Your tank or pot as to be stainless steel. Pyrex could do but if not good if you do it on a propane or gas eat source.

You can use the solution over and over.... just add the same water level as you had from he start. I've had mine for like 8 years now.... although i only use it once in a while.
Some companies say to use distilled water but i use ordinary tap water and never had problems.

You can also use Caswell black oxide solution as a post treatment solution to give the metal a black finish.
After the final rinse (and before oiling) put it in the heated solution (not boiling) for 5 mins.
Then rinse and WD-40 + oil your parts
This solution cannot be replenished with water, once it's evaporate you have to get more.
But if done right it gives a nice satin finish without the harsh chemicals and equipment needed for salt bluing.
 
Last edited:
PJs for sure. Be VERY careful if you are doing an acid etch that you rinse thoroughly. I made the mistake of thinking the water would dilute what little acid remained. It went straight to the bottom of the pot and melted a small hole and the water started dripping out. Lesson learned.
 
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