Loose scope base

Sauer Kraut - maybe look up Brownell's Force 44 solder - is "silver bearing" - so like an alloy - eutectic - so is quite low melting point - similar to lead/tin solder - is NOT silver braze. But alleged to have much stronger shear resistance than common lead/tin solder. The real "bug in the bed" for me in Manitoba was that Brownell's would not or could not mail the specific flux for that solder to me. I found equivalent on Amazon.ca here in Canada - was mailed to me, apparently without issue, then - the silver bearing solder is brand name "Harris Stay-Brite" SB31 silver bearing solder and the specific flux for it is brand "Harris Stay-Clean" - relabeled with a sticker as "Lenco SCPF4" - has been a few years, but I think that solder was 3% or 4% silver.

The big advantage to Force 44 solder is that hot bluing salts do not affect it, where hot bluing salts will eat normal soft solder.
 
It would not overly surprise me if there was a modern epoxy that had similar shear strength as old-days solder - but would likely have to get and read the particular specs about either to compare. I suspect lead/tin solder back then was very inexpensive - and there was much knowledge about how to use it to stick things together - heat sinks, etc. A case where maybe modern stuff might be available that is better or easier to use - but likely much salesman B.S. to sort through to find actual tested numbers.

Is a tendency that I have noticed - products that were made 25 or 30 years ago - gained reputation to do the job better, or much better, than others. But then brand name sold to someone else - often several times - current production not using same chemicals or same processes - but today's buyer's focused on the brand name that their Grandpa said worked so well - back then. But not the same stuff, today, at all. However, there are many items - car engines or ignition systems, perhaps epoxies - that are leaps and bounds ahead of whatever was considered the "best" back then.
 
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Sauer Kraut - maybe look up Brownell's Force 44 solder - is "silver bearing" - so like an alloy - eutectic - so is quite low melting point - similar to lead/tin solder - is NOT silver braze. But alleged to have much stronger shear resistance than common lead/tin solder. The real "bug in the bed" for me in Manitoba was that Brownell's would not or could not mail the specific flux for that solder to me. I found equivalent on Amazon.ca here in Canada - was mailed to me, apparently without issue, then - the silver bearing solder is brand name "Harris Stay-Brite" SB31 silver bearing solder and the specific flux for it is brand "Harris Stay-Clean" - relabeled with a sticker as "Lenco SCPF4" - has been a few years, but I think that solder was 3% or 4% silver.

Interesting, thanks for the detailed reply. Any idea on who might be familiar with those products? I'm still having a hard time locating a smith.
 
That will be your challenge - that I know of, there is no nation wide accreditation to call one's self a "gunsmith" - I was an electrician and my certificate has a Red Seal - to get that required a 4 year apprenticeship and 4 x 8 week sessions at a Tech school - I do not think there is equivalent to that for "gunsmith". But more than that, you will want to find someone with experience with solder and flux - is nothing written anywhere that a random "smith" has any skill or experience at that, nor with that particular style of turret mount or mauser rifle. Sort of like my trade - not all "electricians" have ever pulled bearings in 500 horse-power electric motors, or worked with 4,160 volt switch gear, or played with "tap-changers" in big transformers - although we likely have identical Red Seal "tickets". From your posts above - is like at least one screw is sheared off within that receiver - might be the first thing to deal with?

From a correspondent (who is not a gunsmith - is actually a pilot for his real job) - he has installed reproductions of that mount - or at least reproductions of that style of rifle - two screws drilled and tapped at angle into the receiver ring - then he says originals were also most definitely soldered to anchor them in place. Was much hilarity in back and forth pictures when he broke off a tap in one of those holes - I think he found out why "real" gunsmiths use carbon taps for small stuff, versus cheaper to buy HSS taps - I think he ended up buying a tiny carbide end mill to get that broken tap out of that hole.

And I might have mis-remembered - perhaps the broken off tap occurred in an attempt to install a European style side mount on a Mauser 98.
 
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I know gun smith is not a protected term, it's just easy short hand. Do you know if your buddy is available? I'm at the point that, if I had the room and some practice, I'd attempted it myself.
 
Like has been suggested. Large , heavy scope and perhaps light hard kicking rifle. A guy I know has a 340 Weatherby weighs about 7 pounds bare mounted with a huge Zeiss variable. Recoil actually sheared 6-48 screws off so had to drill out and tap 8-40 .
 
Remove the broken screw, acetone to clean to holes and new screws, blue loctite and let it cure before shooting. If you really want to get serious about it, but some loctite between the base and receiver as well. 8-40 screws and/or soldering on the base seems excessive to me. Oh ya, and don’t use cheap screws (cheap bases come with cheap screws). Make sure they’re steel and that you don’t weaken them by over tightening. Use a torque driver or wrench.
 
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