Lube for Cold Weather

Most gun stores carry G96 spray. I usually buy it at Wholesale Sports or SIR (now Cabellas). I can understand using grease or oil in the summer to reduce wear, smooth things out. But in the winter, firing only a couple of shots out hunting, I'd rather have less chance of gumming, and protection against rust. I spray the whole gun down, wipe off the excess, clean out the bore and chamber, fire fouling shots at the range, put the gun away in the case, ready for the hunt. If I'm going out again in the afternoon or evening, I leave the rifle outside and avoid bringing it in and having it get sweaty from condensation.

The guys who recommend graphite, don't you need something as a rust barrier on the metal?
 
Shooters Choice FP10

FP-10 contains the additive MT-10 metal treatment that decreases friction between moving parts with no build-up or changes in tolerance. Eliminates most malfunctions and protects against metal damages.

Material:Lubricant
Quantity:4 oz
Container:plastic bottle

Notes:
•Metal lubricant, temperature range -75 to 500 degrees F
 
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Graphite from any hardware store or molybdenum disulphide in a light oil. For real cold, I use graphite.
 
Stole it from the web.

"While the anodizing does indeed act as a good barrier, in the long term the absence of corrosion would depend on the absence of corrosive ions. Graphite is not corrosive in itself towards aluminum, but in the presence of chloride ions (such as from sea-water or marine atmosphere) it can cause galvanic (bimetallic) corrosion to occur. The anodizing will however prevent the chloride ions from reaching the metal substrate for a long time - perhaps several years. So there should be no concern with moisture alone, but if chloride is present, there might be long-term concern."
 
greentips said:
Stole it from the web.

"While the anodizing does indeed act as a good barrier, in the long term the absence of corrosion would depend on the absence of corrosive ions. Graphite is not corrosive in itself towards aluminum, but in the presence of chloride ions (such as from sea-water or marine atmosphere) it can cause galvanic (bimetallic) corrosion to occur. The anodizing will however prevent the chloride ions from reaching the metal substrate for a long time - perhaps several years. So there should be no concern with moisture alone, but if chloride is present, there might be long-term concern."
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I think the effects are minimal. I have a 22 semi I use exclusively for rabbits in the winter, other than cleaning the barrel, ive never disassembled it to clean. its had the graphite in it for probley 4 years + now. not a spot of grease or any oil. begining of each season, i give the parts a fresh dusting with it and go.
 
DO NOT USE GRAPHITE! graphite has an electrical charge that corrodes aluminum, your gun may not have aluminum but they react, worse yet when graphite and water collide you form an acid, somthing that will happen when snow hits your gun further corroding your firearm. Anyone using graphite in their firearm does not understand the chemistry of graphite. Eezox is a synthetic gun oil that will work wonderfully in cold weather. Graphite may be fine for a 300 dollar 22 but if you have a valuable firearm just don't use it, you will ruin it over time.
 
There was a discussion about graphite in a DI system a while ago and why it should not be used. I'm not going to dig it up, someone else can search for it. The pam says that graphite should not be used with the C7/C8. Take it FWIW,make your own choice and carry on. Note, CLP is only recommended until -18 C then a switch to arctic grade weapons oils is called for.
 
The RCMP spent a lot of our money to determine that Eezox or G96 are best. If you search the web you will find the report. Eezox is all I use, also the best rust inhibitor.
 
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