M-14 Stocks...

RevolverRodger

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I just recieved my M-14 stock...
Looks nice but I want to repaint it. (It's a strange brown color).
Ok since alot of people are in my situation I'm sure we would all be interested to know how the pros refinish their stocks...
What kind of paint used on the graphite... What paint for the metal parts etc...


Thanks alot
 
I am in the same situation, would like to paint my usgi stock black, what is the best paint to use. I was thinking flat black autmotive spray paint, am I correct?

Any feedback would be appreciated.

Thanks
 
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Any 2 part epoxy paint will be the best for durability. Spray bombs dry because the solvents evaporate. 2 or 3 part systems cure ...a chemical reaction. Epoxy paints will "dry" in a sealed can.

The down side is you need a spraygun, but for something little like a stock you could get buy with a small gun from princess Auto.

Nic
 
Before you paint you should consider filling in the selector switch cutout as per the instructions in Skulboys sticky.

I bought No Name Primer from Cambodian Tire. Krylon Cammo matte black paint and Duplicolor Truck Bed Liner. I had to go to the nearest Rona to get some matte clear coat, a toss up between Port Perry and Markham from where I live.

I have finished the cutouts. Re-reinforced the front-end interior of the stock with fiberglass and epoxy (I remembered to leave enough room for gas system to work) and have just finished priming the beast.

FWIW $20 spent on a dremel clone from Princess Auto made the filling in and sanding go much faster.

http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=60871
This thread covers the topic as discussed before.
 
I'm no professional but I've screwed up a few stocks, so here's what I learned.

- fill in the selector cut-out with JB Weld or any other epoxy type putty, the two part ones in a long cylindrical tube, Devcon is supposed to be very good. Add some sort of support inside the cut-out area, a stainless screw is what I use.
- while you have the putty out you might also want to bed the action. It's kind of hard to explain but there should be a sticky on it somewhere.
- re-inforcing the front forearm is optional but something I do, as has been said leave room for the gas system.
- I blasted the brown paint that the stock came with off, I don't really know if it matter though, I just figure get down to the base material before painting.
- If you want a textured finish use the truck bedliner in a can from Can. Tire. I've tried other textured paints but they're not as hard.
- Krylon paint are fine as are the camo paints you can get in a can at Can. Tire but you should put a coat of matte clear over them. Overall though they're not extremely durable.
- If you want a paint that will harden go for Gun Kote (available from V-Bull, check the banners at the top of the site). Get the air cure stuff, if doing camo patterns finish off with their matte clear coat. DO NOT use the bake on Gun Kote paints, the heat will expand the foam inside your stock and split it in two, don't ask how I know this! Also the guys at Gun Kote will answer any questions you have, great people when you need some help.
- Get a cheap air brush ($35), it'll do a better job than a brush or spray can. They're easy to use, took me about 10min. to figure it out and it gives you great control.


Otherwise it's not too hard to do, just requires some patience and time. Go slow and things will work out great. Good luck.
 
Kinda diggin up an old post here, but whats it look like under the brown? I just got my M14 this week. The dark brown looks like turds. Whats it going to look like if I sand it down? I'm aiming for a more normal wood color, can I just restain whats underneith? I'm not quite into ordering a new stock yet.
 
Grey.....

Oh, you mean the chiwood?
not worth too much of your time.
I got mine all sanded down until I felt like the wood is getting harder (signs of less oil). I sanded with fine and made the first mistake. I tried to raise the grain (by weting it), to get a nicer sanding. ouch!!!!
The wood was spongy and one can use it as absorbant around the kitchen. I let it dry and resanded. No more raising the grain. Just slapped about 7 coats of tru-oil (nothing nicer would worth, even though I thought about Tung oil first...) and the stock looks decent now. You could mistake it for walnut from afar.
Now I have a nicer piece of wood to move around and because I put so much work in it, it is kind of hard to just feed it in the fireplace. Never used it, as I got a hang of a synthetic one.

BTW I know someone who has some for sale.... :p :confused:
 
clear finish

I used a Krylon black as the primer and a pebbely finish in 2-tone as the final ultima. Now, I need a Matte clear finish... which one has been used successfully?

The clear flat finish coat - it needs to be hard and resist heat!!!!!

Hans
 
Talking about stocks, A synthetic stock from a Springfield Armory M1A felt beefier than a synthetic USGI one...Are they different??
 
Airborn_69 said:
Talking about stocks, A synthetic stock from a Springfield Armory M1A felt beefier than a synthetic USGI one...Are they different??

Yes, they are simply USGI stocks with a flat black engine wrinkle paint on them.Which unfortunately tends to chip & flake off very quickly, and is PITA to completely strip and refinish.

The S.A. painted stocks are notoriouis for poor finishes.

SKBY.
 
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