M 38 Husqvarna Help

Mac_63

Mac_63

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I have looked up a few sights to explain the numbers on the disc, but am just a little confused as to what the stamp by the 9 means, is that a worn barrel or the opposite a good barrel. The bore is shinny and crisp. I am thinking about putting a boyds stock and drill and tap the gun.
Its a numbers matching gun all orginal ,,,,,except someone cut at the front sight removing the the barrel thread section.

Added a few photos





 
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The bore should be 6.49mm.

Torped = Bullet with boat tail (also means "torpedo")

Överslag = "Point of impact over line of sight" (also means "estimate")

STR = Streck
Mills (1 Swedish mill = 1 meter at 1000 meters = 3,6" at 100 yds)
 
IF the rifle has not been fired too much AFTER it was inspected, then you have a very good one. The stock disks give an indication of the bore condition, but that is subjective. Unscrupulous people can easily change a disk, and misrepresent a poor condition rifle for a better one. Also, new knock off bore disks are available on E-Bay and other places.

This disk would indicate a rifle bore of 6.49 mm as noted. Husqvarna made m-38 rifles had a maximum tolerance of 6.51 so the 6.49 bore is VERY GOOD. The other indicator is that there is NO punch mark on the "1-2-3" pie shaped area, so that suggests that there is no rust or imperfections in the bore of the rifle. (Rifles, even with a 3 bore indication, still tend to shoot well --but after a 3, the barrels are usually replaced.)

If the bore disk is correct for that rifle, you should have an almost perfect bore and a LOT of good shooting from that rifle.
 
Guys thanks for the info I understand how the disc reads now, the bore is shinny the rifling is stong the rifle is in amazing condition the blue is a perfect as one could find on a rifle made in 1942. It would be shame to sporter the rifle if it wasn't already modified.

I will take a photo and post the before and after
 
Too bad they cut the threads off an otherwise very very good M38. There are thread protectors that screw on and look great and are original equipment. Makes me wonder if the rifling had been damaged at the muzzle.
 
I was thinking of using it as a sporter but the more I look at the gun its a shame to drill and tap it. I bought it with the intention to have it crowned and remove the front blade, then set it in a boyds stock . I might try and have the barrel cleaned up and as was suggested re install the front sight slightly back to get that original look.
 
I finnaly got around to shooting this rifle, proved to me very accurate, I am now in the process of finding a stock, tried Boyds but no matter which version mauser I chose none of the barrel messuremenst match . any help would be apreciated.
 
Whatever Boyd's stock you end up getting, pay attention to the barrel channel width. M38 have relatively slim barrel, with just the one "step" just forward of the chamber. The small ring mauser laminated sporter barrel version that I ended up with is quite a bit wider barrel channel than the M38 barrel. I am still working out how to install coloured Acraglas on just the sides of the barrel channel to close up the gap - there are cavernous routed openings under the barrel and I don't want to fill them in.
 
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