M&P 22 unloading and dry firing?

vontrapp

vontrapp

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So if I unload an M&P 22, clear it, and release the slide forward, would that not leave the internals in a ready to fire position?

I was always taught to not dry fire a .22 as the pin could get damaged, but what do we do with this handgun? Leave the internals "cocked" for long term storage?

Hoping to hear from members familiar with this firearm.

Cheers

VT
 
Yes, I have inserted a spent .22 casing into the breech and then pulled the trigger. Problem is, I truly don't like doing that, it just feels contrary to all the rules I was ever taught (or teach to my kids).

A snap cap would also work, but...feels wrong also.

So the question I'm asking is whether owners of this firearm are leaving their weapons cocked for long term storage?
 
Well, if you don't like spent casing, snap caps or leaving the gun cocked, then your only option is to take the gun completely apart and leave it in pieces.
 
Read your owners manual that came with the gun. It doesn't say anything in the manual about not dry firing this gun. I never leave mine in the cocked position, and I never use a spent casing or a snap cap to de-#### it.

Yes, you are correct, in days gone by it was not a good idea to dry fire a rim fire. Days gone by. New model guns will clearly state in the manual that you shouldn't dry fire the gun if you shouldn't. If it isn't in there, you're good to go.
 
After dinner, and contrary to every Man-Law out there, I sat down and read the manual. :)

It states to NOT dry fire the gun. OK, no problem there.

But the manual said nothing about decocking the firearm (at least not that I spotted). Hate assuming stuff, but it appears S+W wants the firearm stored with the hammer cocked.

Sorry to sound like a broken record, but didn't think this was good for a firearm. Mind you, I guess thousands of 1911's have been left in safes with the safety on and the hammer back...in the US anyways.
 
You are correct - Leaving your pistol cocked is not a problem. Modern metallurgy can give us quality springs that do not take a "set" in the same way that they did years ago. These springs wear out and eventually fail due to changes in their state (repeated cycling).

That's what I read somewhere on the the internet. Seemed pretty convincing.
 
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