M&P 9 Rusty Slide

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So about two months ago I pulled my m&p 9 out of my safe and to my dismay the slide was rusty. I spent over an hour with a scouring pad and various brushes removing as much of the rust as possible. You could see how the rust was actually forming under and coming through the finish in certain areas. When I put it away I coated the slide with hoppes. I checked up on it about 2-3 weeks later and it was still looking good. I was doing some mods on some other pistols and had a look, sure enough the rust is coming back again. I have no idea why. I have 9 other semi-auto's in this same fireproof safe (plastic lining) with moisture packs, that have/had no problems. My m&p pro, and m&p 40 show no issues, my sigs, 1911 and glocks (understandably) do not show any issues and my sr9 (black) also shows no problem (less durable finish then others).

I know this has been a discussed issue with these guns in the past. But I am unsure what the actual problem is? Factory defect with the finish? Most importantly however, how do I fix it? Send the slide back to S&W? I have owned this pistol over a year now, fired maybe 3500-4000 rounds through it, it has held up well minus this issue that as mentioned, surfaced within the last two months. I purchased it used and would not expect any remaining warranty coverage. Its nasty and I am not happy about it.

How to go about addressing it?
 
Its my understanding that tbe slide on a M&P is a blackened stainless slide. At least that's what mine says on the slide. I'm surprised it is rusting like that. Maybe it was in the finishing process that the slides missed a step causing it to rust. I know some stainless grades will and do get surface rust. I know there is a pickling process that watchmaking companys use on stainless steel to remove any carbon molecules from the surface to stop surface rust.
I wouldn't #### around trying to remove it with anything until I emailed some pictures to Smith & Wesson. If its something they did they will make good on it. If you have been scrubbing on it too hard they may try to say you caused this. Just don't let them try and talk you into sending the slide to a Canadian warranty depot until they at least review the problem in Springfield. I'd get a name to if you talk to someone at Smith.
I had a second hand Smith 659 pistol that the grips split up the backstrap. I called them a couple of months back.I emailed a pic and they sent me a new set of grips to my door.
The market that they are selling the M&P pistols in I'm sure that they don't want the hassles of people reporting rusty slides on the internet.
 
pretty common for them to rust like that actually. call the warranty center and see if they will do anything, if they wont cut your losses and have it cerakoted for $50 or so, as a bonus you get to pick whatever color you want and make a cool 2 tone
 
I use Hoppe's 9 to clean my guns then apply liberal (bad word) amounts of gun oil for storage, if your gun is rusting obviously there are no rust inhibitors left on the surface of the metal. You may need to re-charge your moisture packs as well.
 
In the US forums, S&W has been replacing the slides that are rusting. I'm pretty sure that they would do the same here, but you will have to send the gun to a warranty centre. And that could take awhile before you get it back. Can you post a pic here?
 
Remember that 'stainless' really means 'stain-less,' and will corrode under certain conditions. Here are the gory details:

http://www.estainlesssteel.com/corrosion.shtml

Note that Glocks don't use stainless, but use a ferritic nitrocarburizing treatment (Tenifer) as an anticorrosion treatment. I would echo the comment above, and get an aftermarket treatment. In the meantime, keep the slide wiped down with petroleum jelly (Vaseline), which is a less smelly version of Cosmoline (the refining process removes the amber-coloured, stinky, and possibly carcinogenic aromatics). And toss a couple of those silica gel packs into your case, or some silica gel kitty litter in a muslin bag.
 
Remember that 'stainless' really means 'stain-less,' and will corrode under certain conditions. Here are the gory details:

http://www.estainlesssteel.com/corrosion.shtml

Note that Glocks don't use stainless, but use a ferritic nitrocarburizing treatment (Tenifer) as an anticorrosion treatment. I would echo the comment above, and get an aftermarket treatment. In the meantime, keep the slide wiped down with petroleum jelly (Vaseline), which is a less smelly version of Cosmoline (the refining process removes the amber-coloured, stinky, and possibly carcinogenic aromatics). And toss a couple of those silica gel packs into your case, or some silica gel kitty litter in a muslin bag.

Smith and Wesson uses what they call a Melonite finish which is supposed to be an equivalent to Glocks Tenifer or Beretta's Bruniton finish. It should not be rusting. Either their Melonite finish doesn't work or a number of their M&P slides were not treated properly.
 
No problem with mine here either. Have an M&P 9 and was outside at the range with it on Saturday during -11C temps, followed by a quick cleaning and oiling and everything is fine. I've shot during rain and snow over the past few months and it still doesn't show any signs of corrosion.
 
No problems with mine. I think most of the rust problems were in the early models of the M&P. I haven't heard of any rust problems with the later ones for awhile.
 
I had some very minor pitting on the top of mine. I put one of those safe heaters in there and no problems since.

There has to be moisture in the safe for it to rust. The M&P just happens to have the weaker finish. Take care of the moisture and all will be good.
 
I had an earlier m&p9 and there was rust in the slide serrations. I used a copper brush and hoppes and It was reduced to the point of not being a bother. Nonetheless, 400 grade stainless will show surface rust and the fact that it is coming through the finish is a clear defect in the finish. I would do as another member suggested and have it cerakoted along with the slide in a vtac color scheme. That would be mint and less downtime than a warranty repair. If you don't mind waiting and don't want to pay then get it warrantied. Would love to see pics though.
 
Hi Guys,

Been away and haven't had time to take some pics or call S&W. I haven't forgotten and will definitely post some pictures for reference and a follow-up once I get the chance to get in contact with them.

Thanks for the helpful comments though. I know this is an earlier model due to the length of time I have owned it plus the previous owner.
 
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