I recently bought a S&W M&P 9 and I noticed that the slide release is super hard to use sometimes I will need two thumbs, no problem with the slingshot method. Anyway I found some videos saying that I should sand part of the slide release and also do the same with parts of the triggering mechanism for a separate issue (trigger kind of gritty ) has anybody experienced and solved this?
M&P 9 slide release and trigger
- Thread starter Vandal 007
- Start date
Amazingkg3
CGN Regular
- Location
- St. John's, NL
The release on the M&P seems to be designed around using it as a slide stop, and not a slide release. I've seen some where it is how you describe. Mine doesn't have the same issue, but the slide will drop when you insert a mag hard. I guess it's on a case to case basis. (This is my own observations with M&Ps, not the general consensus on M&P's entirely). If you want more info on M&Ps, check this site out http://mp-pistol.com/
As for the trigger, the stock M&P trigger sucks. Gritty, and has a tonne of over travel. Get an Apex Carry kit from Brownells. Easily worth the $100 bucks, as the trigger is very nice. Clean take up, short reset, positive reset. As for fixing the stock trigger, I've heard it smooths out after time, but doesn't fix the over travel issue.
As for the trigger, the stock M&P trigger sucks. Gritty, and has a tonne of over travel. Get an Apex Carry kit from Brownells. Easily worth the $100 bucks, as the trigger is very nice. Clean take up, short reset, positive reset. As for fixing the stock trigger, I've heard it smooths out after time, but doesn't fix the over travel issue.
"Sanding" the slide release will only shorten it's life span. The release tends to be more difficult to operate when you're trying to use it with an empty magazine in place - but that's because when you're pushing down, the follower is pushing up. The easy answer is not to do that, if you're closing the slide for administrative reasons, there's no reason not to use your hand to release the slide, and since it's there (your hand) follow the slide forward. When you're shooting, most people who teach this sort of thing teach the power stroke, so really not an issue. Tis tends to be more of aan issue for lefties - because the locking tab is attached to the right side release arm. As far as the trigger goes, the part that bugs most people is the gritty take up, this is caused by the firing pin safety block having a pronounced edge and rough surface, and the trigger arm firing pin block release having a rough surface. You can polish (not sand) both parts, or polish the trigger bar release and replace the firing pin block with an Apex. Frankly, get the Apex kit that way the gun will still be safe after you're done.
