i have an m1 garand it has been rebarreled with a krieger barrel.i have accuracy prroblems. i shoot 5 five shoot groups first one high and left the other 4 are 2inchs lower in a nice little group.the load i'm using is 167gr scenar 44GR of N150. trying to figure out the high flyer.my mini14 does the same thing.
M1 garand problems
- Thread starter TIPPY91
- Start date
maple_leaf_eh
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
If the first shot is consistently off, I would not blame the gun. When subsequent shots fall nicely together, I wonder just how well locked up the gun is for number one. Are you letting the operating rod slam forward smartly? The old drill Sgt rule of thumb (groan) is to thumb your nose.
With a fresh 8-shot enbloc (not 5, which might be another problem), the rod will want to close as soon as the clip latch disengages. So, with your right thumb on the clip and pressing down until it stops, hold the op rod back with the side of your right hand. The spring will now be forcing your hand. With a swift reverse-karate chop, put your right thumb on your nose. The whole idea is to give the spring the same pressure for number 1 as for number 2, etc.
With a fresh 8-shot enbloc (not 5, which might be another problem), the rod will want to close as soon as the clip latch disengages. So, with your right thumb on the clip and pressing down until it stops, hold the op rod back with the side of your right hand. The spring will now be forcing your hand. With a swift reverse-karate chop, put your right thumb on your nose. The whole idea is to give the spring the same pressure for number 1 as for number 2, etc.
Brutus
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
With two different rifles and in two different cartridges doing the same thing, I'm guessing operator error......
maybe
Brutus
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
^Yep, this advice is solid! Op rod meant to operate with powders available circa 1936. Google this: NRA recommended loads for the 30-06 M1 Garand.
And stay very far away from Master Po's highly virused up webpage.
good luck......
I tend to agree with maple leaf... if it's consistantly happening with the first round, with both rifles, then it's likely because the bolt isn't closing with the same force as when in semi-auto fire.
Brutus
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Purely because of the viruses friend.
Brutus
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
When I get home in two-three hours I'll look up my Garand loads from an older Handloader magazine.
I will also refer to my record of handloads.
From the May/June 1989 Handloader #139:
125 grain Sierra Spitzer
H-322 50.0 2950 fps*
AAC-2520 52.0 3000
IMR-4895 52.0 2970
H-4895 52.0 2940
150 grain Sierra Matchking
IMR-4895 48.0 for 2800 fps*
WW-748 52.0 2775 fps
H-322 46.0 2740 fps
IMR-4064 52.0 2800 fps <I have seen later data that drops this same powder load to 51.2 grains
AAC-2520 49.0 2795 fps
168 grain Sierra Matchking
IMR-4895 46.5 2640 fps*
H-4895 47.0 2660
IMR-4064 48.0 2700
H-380 49.0 2650
AAC-2520 46.0 2600
175 grain M118/M72 FMJ
IMR-4895 44.5 2600 fps*
H-4895 45.0 2625
W-760 52.0 2640
IMR-4064 47.0 2620
I put the star beside the ones with the best accuracy potential according to this writeup.
My own handload is next. I do not remember where exactly I got this one from. But I believe it came from a reputable source. Or I would not have risked myself or my rifle.
150 grain Winchester PSP
48.0 grains IMR-3031
CCI #34 (This is THE safest primer for all semi-auto rifles BTW & I myself do use this one, exclusively for all Garand handloads)
The velocity I do not have noted. But I've used this load at 600 to 800 yards from my Springfield M1 with excellent results!
The sights were perfectly indexed at both distances for superior service rifle accuracy.
cheers
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Some rifles will flip the first round from a cold barrel and then settle down to print a consistent pattern after the barrel is warm from the first shot. This is why we always fired "2 rounds warming into the butts" before shooting for record. Sometimes a different primer will help with flyers. The propellants of choice with the Garand are IMR4894, IMR4064 and H4895. These generate the proper pressure pulse to cycle the action and produce excellent accuracy to boot.
You might also check for metal to wood clearances on the handguards as this will affect barrel harmonics as the barrel warms. The rear handgd should have clearance from the face of the receiver-about the thickness of a business card. The front handgd should allow perceptable motion between it and the rear of the gas cylinder. Some other things to check are tightness of the lower band on the barrel-it should be rock solid, tightness of the gas cyl screw, and rotational movement of the gas cyl on the barrel splines-it must be tight. Another cause for variation is a crack in the rear face of the gas cyl screw. If it is cracked it will allow gas to escape with an effect on consistency.
You might also check for metal to wood clearances on the handguards as this will affect barrel harmonics as the barrel warms. The rear handgd should have clearance from the face of the receiver-about the thickness of a business card. The front handgd should allow perceptable motion between it and the rear of the gas cylinder. Some other things to check are tightness of the lower band on the barrel-it should be rock solid, tightness of the gas cyl screw, and rotational movement of the gas cyl on the barrel splines-it must be tight. Another cause for variation is a crack in the rear face of the gas cyl screw. If it is cracked it will allow gas to escape with an effect on consistency.
How do you know you have a damaged op rod ? Remember the Op rod should have curve in the piston , i know a few guys who thought they needed a new op rod because they thought it was bent lol
For reloading just stick to IMR4895 or H4895 and dont shoot a bullet over 180 grains. or you can damage the op rod.
To check for correct op rod fit do the "tilt test". To do this remove the rifle from the stock, remove the op rod spring, follower arm pin, follower arm, op rod catch, bullet guide and follower. Leave all other parts in place.
Next, hold the rifle upright in a horizontal position. Then, with the bolt closed and op rod fully forward, raise the muzzle to a 60 deg angle fom the horizontal. The bolt and op rod should move fully to the rear from the weight of the bolt & op rod alone and the op rod should not bind on any part of the rifle during it's movement. Next, depress the muzzle to a 60 deg angle from the horizontal and the bolt and op rod should close fully from the weight of the bolt & op rod alone.
The op rod should not detach from the bolt without an effort on your part. The op rod piston should be fully round and measure .525 OD as a minimum. If these points all check OK, then the op rod should be considered to be servicable.
Next, hold the rifle upright in a horizontal position. Then, with the bolt closed and op rod fully forward, raise the muzzle to a 60 deg angle fom the horizontal. The bolt and op rod should move fully to the rear from the weight of the bolt & op rod alone and the op rod should not bind on any part of the rifle during it's movement. Next, depress the muzzle to a 60 deg angle from the horizontal and the bolt and op rod should close fully from the weight of the bolt & op rod alone.
The op rod should not detach from the bolt without an effort on your part. The op rod piston should be fully round and measure .525 OD as a minimum. If these points all check OK, then the op rod should be considered to be servicable.
