M1 Garand purchasing questions

DoubleU

DoubleU

New member
Rating - 100%
7   0   0
Location
Alberta
Hey folks, I am currently in the market for a Garand (like many are) but im not entirely sure what im looking for or what I want. I have a few questions that I haven't been able to find the answer to. Im aware im going to pay an arm and a leg for a Garand but I want to make sure the one I do buy is the right fit for me. The gun show in Calgary is fast approaching but last year I only found 2, one I almost pulled the trigger on was a beaten down haggard rifle someone wanted $1100 for (Gunshow prices). I didnt buy it because the guy told me it would cost about $500 to replace the stock (which is insane considering ive held a $170 brand new Boyds stock in my hand since then).

Anywho heres my situation. I have money to spend and I want to get the best bang for the buck and im looking for someone to suggest which qualities are important and which to avoid.

Maker: I want a Springfield simply for the fact its a Springfield. But I do not know much about H and R and International Harvester other than they were awarded contracts to produce the rifle. Ive seen a few nice examples for sale here on Gun Nutz but I think I want the Springfield simply for the name. Comments? Quality different?

Nostalgia: I want a Garand with some history but I want to shoot this thing regularly to semi-regularly. Am I better off getting a refinished, reparked new wood stock rifle or should I look at something thats been threw the ringer. I want to keep this rifle in my family for awhile but I also want to shoot it and have it function perfectly. Are WW2 Garands in need of repair? Is a 1955 or newer a better option? Does a refinished Garand affect its worth?

Ammunition: 30-06 ammo is expensive, hard to find for the most part (Garand ammo) and did I mention expensive? I know you can get a new gas plug to shoot conventional ammo but I dont mind paying for the right stuff. Does anyone reload? Can anyone make a suggestion on what to buy or should I just reload myself (im in need of a new hobby)?

Anyways, there are only two I have seen forsale on here that I like, one of which is the Springfield (new stock, older metal finish with some dark spots) and a completely redone H & R. Any guidance would be great and if there is a thread ive missed I can read that instead and my apologies. Thanks dudes.
 
All Garands by all makers were made with interchangeable parts and all passed Government acceptance checks. If you want a Springfield or any other make, condition (especially the bore) and correct functionality are what to look for. The fact is that most Garands were rebuilt at least once in military service using any available parts regardless of maker. If you want an original, non-rebuilt model, these are scarcer and will cost more. A Garand was a Garand in military service and were used and rebuilt as necessary up until the time they were disposed of. I have owned early WW2 models which were arsenal rebuilt to as new. I have also owned late production examples which were unserviceable and well worn to the point of requiring a full rebuild incl barrel and wood replacement as well as other parts.

If you want an original, un-refinished model expect to pay more. A rebuilt model of any make with a sound barrel is a better and cheaper choice for a shooter. Many reload for the Garand using specific propellants and bullet weights which allow correct functionality. There are additional caveats when reloading for a Garand vs a bolt gun. There are 2 makes of Garand compatible ammo on the market. Some use various commercial .30-06 loads with an adjustable gas plug.
 
Try and get ahold of Billybob, he normally has Garands for sale that he builds. He is a vast wealth of knowledge on this forum !
 
I think Purple and WW2GURU will agree when I say, if someone tells you that the Garand is ALL ORIGINAL, it is 99.9999% BS. I know of ONE in Canada that is in fact early 1940-41 FACTORY original, as in it has all of its factory original parts. I have (with the exception of the IHC Op-rod) an all matching H&R. The trigger housing, hammer and safety are replacement H&R, but I can't say it is factory original. As Purple pointed out, despite markings of Springfield, Winchester, International Harvester or Harrington and Richardson, or Breda or Beretta, they are all Military parts (I seem to recall Beretta bought Winchesters tooling) and any of those makers are correct on a shooter Garand.

When getting into the collector grade Garands... for the most part, I suggest to most guys to stay away from them for the simple reason, like I pointed out with mine, is it all original, or is it factory correct. Chances are, you will never know. If you want a collector grade garand, sit down and pick purple's or WW2GURU's brain.

As for reloading for Garand (or M14/M1A), there is lots of information out there about doing so. The big things to remember when doing so is,
Bullet weight; IE. 145/147, 150-175/180,

Powder; (from the NRA) IMR 3031, IMR 4895, IMR 4064, H4895, H335, BLC-2, W748 (remember, there is no gas regulator of rack Garands and M14/M1A, so you are loading for pressure. But of the top of my head, 2750 FPS~ for 150 Grs is standard Military M2 Ball, and 2640 FPS~ for the 173/175 Grs match loading for the M72 Match ammo)

and ALWAYS full length resize.

I can tell you there will be at least one 308 Garand at the Calgary show as a friend of mine is taking it to sell
 
Garends from all makers can be found to be first class though if it is a Springfield you are after then that is your choice. Personally, I go for condition over manufacturer and currently have a beautiful Winchester - which, perhaps oddly, some consider to be the least desirable of the makers.

I personally would not consider a Garand in .308 - God, through the personage of JCG, decreed that the M1 should shoot the 30-06 and that's what any I own will shoot.
 
Springfield made 'em, yes, but the other makers, H&R and IH et al, are in greater demand by collectors. H&R's are postwar manufacturer and are built a bit better for that reason. Hard to find in Canada and they run around a grand, Stateside. Plan 'B' for a shooter would be a Italian built rifle with a VAR barrel. VAR barrels are very close to match grade barrels. Also hard to find.
Some W.W. II vintage rifles do indeed require attention, but most, if not all, of the M1's seen here are Lend/Lease rifles from assorted U.S. "Allies". Very few ever saw any combat of any kind anywhere. Carried much, fired little and not particularly well cared for by the conscripts who lugged 'em. Most European countries had/have mandatory military service and few of the troopies want to the there.
Yes, most gun show prices are out to lunch. Comes from guys seeing those thousand dollar USD prices and thinking their POS rifle is worth that much too. Saw a guy asking $775 for a junker, at a show, years ago now. He carried it back and forth a lot with his $4 each clips. Decide how much money you're willing to pay first.
There's a great deal of nonsense on the Internet regarding ammo for an M1. You don't need a special gas plug to shoot an M1. Millions of rounds of regular factory .30-06 and handloads were fired out of M1 Rifles long before there was such a marketing thing with no fuss. Reloading is the way to go though. 150 to 180 grain bullets(150 Match or regular FMJs out to 300, 168 match bullets past there. 165's for hunting anything. The Rifle is a heavy SOB to haul around when hunting though. AB won't let you hunt with a 8 round clip either.) with IMR or H 4895, IMR4064 or Varget(there are several other powders that work well too. IMR4064 gives more consistent accuracy than either 4895.), regular LR primers and any brand of brass. There is also Hornady's 150 grain bulleted ammo, loaded specifically for M1's. Pricey and not easy to find in Canada.
Forget surplus. There isn't any.
Neither a deity nor JC had anything to do with the M1 Rifle being chambered in .30-06. Doug MacArthur did. He decided it would be in .30-06 due to the millions of rounds of W.W. I ammo in storage. Mind you, Doug did think he was a god.
 
sunray said:
Neither a deity nor JC had anything to do with the M1 Rifle being chambered in .30-06. Doug MacArthur did. He decided it would be in .30-06 due to the millions of rounds of W.W. I ammo in storage. Mind you, Doug did think he was a god.
Click to expand...

On a day when I've been writing letters to MP's etc and the ####wits at the Nanaimo Daily News that brought a smile to my face. BTW, are you suggesting DM wasn't a God :)
 
Me: Hey bud check this out.
Bud (not a gun guy): Cool, a bunch of metal things, what are they?
Me: Rifle receivers. Each one is the heart of the greatest battle rifle every made. If the registry were still here I'd have to register each one as if it were a complete gun.
Bud: Dude! you have like 10 of them!
Me: Yeah I know, I should order a few more.
 
Not real... just a day dream lolz

Edit ? not sure why i wrote that, maybe got this thread confused with one of those Italian receiver threads...

But yeah, once you get a nice original M1, learn to dismantle, clean, assemble, and use, you're likely going to want to build your own. This is the time to do it with lots of parts floating around.
 
Last edited:
I have a 1942 Springfield I put a Boyds stock on it, the finish on the entire rifle is almost new except the old stock which I keep in a closet separate from the rest of the rifle so it can't try to talk its way back on, but it has a var barrel this rifle shoots incredible groups its amazing and it is a rifle I will want to be put in my coffin with me hahaha I love it but I didn't pay a million dollars for it like most people want, I paid around 1200 on a trade and its worth every single penny so all I am saying is don't settle there are a lot of gems out there, metal finish is far more important than stock finish, I don't care what anyone says a garand with a new finish in a boyds stock will always catch a better price than an old beet up piece of crap that seen its entire live in one war, but that's just my opinion
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom