I'm in Cgy area starting tomorrow evening, Okotoks specifically! And yup, I got all my M14 tools ready for the Thursday 11 July TSE store/classroom location.
Hope this helps!
Barney
I can send you a 30-06 case...
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Sobo has a different method than I've seen. Seems everyone has put their own little twist on these bolt take downs. As long as you know whats where and don't lose anything, you are good to go for a try out.
Scart, I'm no bolt disassembler guru, but go to Princess Auto and get your self a pin punch set 6-8$??. Punch your extractor out by tapping the right size pin punch through the extractor hole in the bolt body, hand covering so not to lose extractor spring. It holds everything in place and simply replaces the extractor pin holding in the ejector so you can control the ejector spring coming out with your covered hand. There is force here so be somewhere you could find it if you lost control while removing the pin punch out.
Only reassembly problem I have with this method and a full power/length extractor spring, is holding everything together with pressure by hand, while trying to coax the little extractor spring end into the detent behind the extractor.
I solve this with the 270/30-06 case chambered, and with partially assembled bolt in rifle, let the op rod spring forward force hold everything together and in alignment for you, so with a little pressure with one finger to help out the op rod spring, you can control the insertion of the extractor spring follower into the indent.
If I had cut some of the extractor or ejector springs( no reason to do so for my rifle), as you say you want to,..... the bolt could have been re-assembled completely by hand in my opinion using the drift pin punch method.
Sobo has a different method than I've seen. Seems everyone has put their own little twist on these bolt take downs. As long as you know whats where and don't lose anything, you are good to go for a try out.
Scart, I'm no bolt disassembler guru, but go to Princess Auto and get your self a pin punch set 6-8$??. Punch your extractor out by tapping the right size pin punch through the extractor hole in the bolt body, hand covering so not to lose extractor spring. It holds everything in place and simply replaces the extractor pin holding in the ejector so you can control the ejector spring coming out with your covered hand. There is force here so be somewhere you could find it if you lost control while removing the pin punch out.
Only reassembly problem I have with this method and a full power/length extractor spring, is holding everything together with pressure by hand, while trying to coax the little extractor spring end into the detent behind the extractor.
I solve this with the 270/30-06 case chambered, and with partially assembled bolt in rifle, let the op rod spring forward force hold everything together and in alignment for you, so with a little pressure with one finger to help out the op rod spring, you can control the insertion of the extractor spring follower into the indent.
If I had cut some of the extractor or ejector springs( no reason to do so for my rifle), as you say you want to,..... the bolt could have been re-assembled completely by hand in my opinion using the drift pin punch method.