m14 case head seperation - case inside chamber

Thanks for the offer i ended up ordering a 308 extractor tool to get the brass out. This case was on its 3rd reload.
 
tootall said:
Agreed. Of course with a semi, it will jam a live round into the rear of the half-case on its own.
Gotta be careful of muzzle direction (and your own face location!) when hammering on the charging handle when you know you have a live round partially chambered!
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bsand said:
Why use a live round? OP reloads, so he can make dummy rounds.
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My point was that I had a mag full of live rounds, I fired one shot, it chucked the back half of the case out and left the front half in the chamber.
Then it picked up a new, LIVE, round from the mag and tried to force it into the chamber.
 
I usually get the case out by shoving a brush in from the chamber, into the case neck, then pulling back. That works 95% of the time.


I once had a case that dis not want to come out. So I took a new empty case, slathered it with epoxy and shoved it into the broken case. Then the rifle extractor pulled both cases out.
 
The same video, 3 times in one thread...... I know theres gotta be more than one video of removing a stuck case on youtube.....

IMHO, pouring cerosafe in the chamber of a rifle is something I would not recommend to anyone who is not used to working with molten lead.... For what a G-Smith would charge to do it, it doesn't make much sense to order 2 lbs of cerosafe.... and ya can't just use lead.....


Post 11,

xboltss said:
i had a broken case in my m305, tried 2 different case removers without success.
this worked for me
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bDYx5-1AZdk
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Post 26

Sqr said:
Why?

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Post 28

Markzdb said:
check this out might help good luck
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bDYx5-1AZdk
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notsorichguy said:
Yes it is possible. But with reduced pressure you get reduced reliability..... There are several methods to achieve this, but that's a whole other thread!

The problem with a stuck case or seperated case is not pressure.

In the event of a stuck case, usually it's an extractor issue..... Either a weak spring or worn extractor.... Or a rifle with insufficient dwell time (again a whole other thread)

The idea you propose is a "a thing". Another version of a stuck case. Usually the rim is ripped off the case if the brass hasn't shrunk back from the chamber walls. This is a pretty rare occurrence IMHO unless the rifle has been fooled with by a fella who knows enough to be dangerous....

With a seperated case, it's either excessive headspace, or brass that has been loaded too many times and the case has weakened. Usually the brass is worked (it gets larger in the chamber when fired, and then made smaller when re-sized) the brass flows, the only direction it really can. From the bottom to the top. Which is why brass is trimmed when reloading.

Picture if you will, a "largish" chamber. Still serviceable, but at or near 7.62 NATO max (1.645") and a reloader who sizes his brass to 308 Win SAMMI minimum (1.630") this means the brass flows to fill the chamber each time it is used, and is then re-sized smaller. That hypothetical piece of brass would likely need to be trimmed at each firing. Consequently, that trimmed off brass has to come from somewhere.... Eventually the weakest part of the case becomes too thin, and it separates into 2 pieces. In real life, the case I just described would likely separate on the 2nd firing......

This is what I believe happened in this particular instance.

Cheers!
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the reason I posed the question is , I have seen something similar with the ag42 , either the rim gets ripped off , or the whole rearward section of the case gets ripped off ..... turn the gas pressure down on these rifles and this problem goes away .
 
notsorichguy said:
The same video, 3 times in one thread...... I know theres gotta be more than one video of removing a stuck case on youtube.....

IMHO, pouring cerosafe in the chamber of a rifle is something I would not recommend to anyone who is not used to working with molten lead.... For what a G-Smith would charge to do it, it doesn't make much sense to order 2 lbs of cerosafe.... and ya can't just use lead.....
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Why wouldn't you recommend this?
Cerrosafe is specifically designed to be used to cast chambers.
Also, it's melting point is so low you can melt it with a hair dryer.
I've used this method many many times and not only is it very easy it's non marring or harmful in any way to the rifle.

Not being confrontational at all here, just saying don't knock it till you try it.
 
jonh172 said:
Why wouldn't you recommend this?
Cerrosafe is specifically designed to be used to cast chambers.
Also, it's melting point is so low you can melt it with a hair dryer.
I've used this method many many times and not only is it very easy it's non marring or harmful in any way to the rifle.

Not being confrontational at all here, just saying don't knock it till you try it.
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I'm not saying don't do it. I'm saying one should be aware of all the possible out-comes doing it.

Another poster suggested using lead. I was offering the opinion that using "Bullet" lead was a really bad idea and that if you think the 2 are the same, you really shouldn't be trying it.

I have cerosafe in my "toolbox", I have used it in the past. I have never used it to remove a stuck/separated case.

Cerosafe is also not "free" and in my experience, ordering 2lbs is expensive to ship. It is not "readily available" around here (at least I was not able to find any when I was looking a few years back). It would actually be cheaper to take it to a smith that already has it and have them do it than to order some in and do it yourself.

Last I checked, a qualified, tooled up g-smith would remove a stuck case for under $20.....
 
Oh! Ya, using lead is a terrible idea lol!

Hopefully the OP is successful with the stuck case extractor, I have used 30-06 and 223 extractors and they don't work great.
Imparting force on the lip of the case doesn't always break the case free.
Cerrosafe is great because the force is shared along the entire case.
 
hmmmm, last time this happened to me and no tool would work (I have the exractor tools) I first rammed a greasy chunk of patch material down the bore from the muzzle end to the throat, contacting the neck of the case.
then I took a piece of 3/8"wooden dowel and a ball of 5 minute epoxy putty ( the two part stick) and made a ball on the end. with pressure on the patch with cleaning rod, I stuck the dowel carefully into the busted piece of brass till it felt snug but not jammed in there. let it set for a few hours, tapped on the cleaning rod a couple times with a plastic hammer and whaddya know..... out it came.
bore scope revealed no left over epoxy, just traces of grease.
 
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