I've juste bought a NEA op rod guide for my norinco m14. It jams the action about half way or a bit more. At first i bought it was the bolt but no it really is that piece, i've switched back to the original fluted op rod guide and everything is fine. Manufacture problem from the part ? The gun ? Buy a new spring ? Too tight because of the finish ? (parkarizing or whatever that is) (Everything was brand new) I wrote to the ammo source, but no answer yet. Anyone help would be appreciated.
(m14) NEA op rod guide jamming
- Thread starter Frank-
- Start date
m14medic.ca
Expried Business Member
- Location
- Regina SK Canada
There are a few different issues that can crop up when swapping a guide rod.
If the barrel isn't indexed properly and the op-rod guide is loose, there could be a bit too much play in your oprod. Your factory stamped oprod guide rod will function, but a NM one won't.
The second most common issue I see with guide rods is; the tang (the bit that slips into the receiver) is too long and the recoil spring airs a bit away from the reciever. This can cause issues with short stroking and can cause an issue with the oprod binding.
John
If the barrel isn't indexed properly and the op-rod guide is loose, there could be a bit too much play in your oprod. Your factory stamped oprod guide rod will function, but a NM one won't.
The second most common issue I see with guide rods is; the tang (the bit that slips into the receiver) is too long and the recoil spring airs a bit away from the reciever. This can cause issues with short stroking and can cause an issue with the oprod binding.
John
John, i don't want to look like a retard but anyway i Can fix those issues ? Whats the usual play ? (Looks fairly stiff) feels like the second issue. I really cant pull the action all the way back. Could it be the machining tolerances of either the part or the gun ?
Yo momma, ill try an duplicate , thanks.
Yo momma, ill try an duplicate , thanks.
m14medic.ca
Expried Business Member
- Location
- Regina SK Canada
It's tough to say for sure what's exactly wrong Via text.... But we'll try and get ya sorted! The issues I mention above are all repairable.
Here's a couple questions for ya,
Is the rifle new, or new to you?
In your first post you state "the original fluted guide rod", was the original guide rod round and fluted or was it a flat stamped looking unit.
is your front sight tilted left or right?
Does your op-rod rest in the centre of your gas piston?
Are you using the Chinese Spring?
John
Here's a couple questions for ya,
Is the rifle new, or new to you?
In your first post you state "the original fluted guide rod", was the original guide rod round and fluted or was it a flat stamped looking unit.
is your front sight tilted left or right?
Does your op-rod rest in the centre of your gas piston?
Are you using the Chinese Spring?
John
Thanks for your time John. The rifle is new, i bought it from marstar, the batch with the front sight off.(tilted left). The op rod guide that came with it is flat and with some holes in it. Yes on the chinese spring. To be in the centre of the gas piston ill say it needs about 1/16 to 1/8 of a turn. The only thing noticible is the spring looks far more compresses with the round op rod guide. So my guess would be that you are going to tell me to align it properly and get a new spring ?
m14medic.ca
Expried Business Member
- Location
- Regina SK Canada
It looks that way. I'm not sure where you are located, but if there's nobody local who can do the job for you, I know I can index it with-out too much trouble.... it isn't a very tough job, but it does require a barrel and action vice/blocks and a way of measuring "trueness".... look for tonyben3 on YouTube and watch a few of his videos, you will very quickly be overloaded with info and have pretty good idea of what needs to be done. Then decide if it's worth trying yourself, or hiring it out.
That's a bit off-side....
I've owned a few things "NEA" including a gen1 AR. I'm not a "fanboy" but for the most part their kit is "ok". Not my first, 2nd or 3rd choice. But it isn't garbage!
The OPs rifle is out of index, badly enough that a retailer sold it at a discount! You can't blame the aftermarket parts when the base rifle is out of spec.
John
m14medic.ca
Expried Business Member
- Location
- Regina SK Canada
No worries.
I'm here to help! Call, email or PM. Advice and/or instruction over the Internet/phone is always gratis!
The platform is worth the effort IMHO.
John
I'm here to help! Call, email or PM. Advice and/or instruction over the Internet/phone is always gratis!
The platform is worth the effort IMHO.
John
i've read that front sight leaning left is over thighten and needs barel removal, cleaning threads etc. I don't like to half ass anything and I am by no means equipped as the video. but ... would just adjusting it by eye in a bench vise (with alignment of the sight and gas tube vs piston/op rod, would remove too much tightening spec since my guess is about 1/16 of a turn or a bit more ? i don't know if i sound dumb but hope to sound logical,
speaking for speaking, i assume that by cleaning the threads the barrel would screw in further and then, in some case to achieve good alignment barrel machining would be required ?
as for the guide, theres nothing apparent as for why it drags/jam might have to do with the spring distortion in the tube in a weird pattern against the slightly un alignment . i can put about a piece of paper between the op rod and the flat spot on the barrel. Other than that it drags a bit on the roller of the bolt but the gun is dry now (until i fix this)
speaking for speaking, i assume that by cleaning the threads the barrel would screw in further and then, in some case to achieve good alignment barrel machining would be required ?
as for the guide, theres nothing apparent as for why it drags/jam might have to do with the spring distortion in the tube in a weird pattern against the slightly un alignment . i can put about a piece of paper between the op rod and the flat spot on the barrel. Other than that it drags a bit on the roller of the bolt but the gun is dry now (until i fix this)
m14medic.ca
Expried Business Member
- Location
- Regina SK Canada
If you don't mind a few marks on the barrel, a bench vise and a large crescent wrench will do the trick. It will mark-up the receiver and the barrel, but if you can live with the blemishes......
If all you want to do is get the index a bit closer to TDC, there is no real need to spin off the barrel and clean the threads. It would be a pretty good idea to do so tho!
Over index is sometimes easier to fix than under, it kinda depends on how much out of index it is too. When its over indexed sometimes all that is required is to give the action half a spin off and then re-tighten it. As long as you have a minimum of 15 degrees of to torque the barrel, after its hand tight, it will be torqued enough to stay in place. I you have less than 15 degrees, then you have some work to do! If you have more than 30 degrees after its hand tight, then something is outta whack, or out of spec.
There is a "flat" spot just rear of the rear sight, it isn't generally perfectly plumb with the rear sight deck, but it should be pretty close. Remove the front sight use the base as another reference location. Use a couple sections of the cleaning rod and balance them on those 2 locations. That should give you a pretty good idea how bad it actually is. A bit of tape or a small rubber type pinch clamp to hold them in place while you work or so you can get a good look from the front or back of the barrelled action.
Once the barrel is indexed, you'll likely have to reset your op-rod guide location.
When I do a re-index, I completely strip every single part off the receiver and barrel. I tear it completely down, toss it all in the parts washer over night and then assemble it correctly. It never seems to work that way at the clinics, and they seem to turn out just fine!
John
If all you want to do is get the index a bit closer to TDC, there is no real need to spin off the barrel and clean the threads. It would be a pretty good idea to do so tho!
Over index is sometimes easier to fix than under, it kinda depends on how much out of index it is too. When its over indexed sometimes all that is required is to give the action half a spin off and then re-tighten it. As long as you have a minimum of 15 degrees of to torque the barrel, after its hand tight, it will be torqued enough to stay in place. I you have less than 15 degrees, then you have some work to do! If you have more than 30 degrees after its hand tight, then something is outta whack, or out of spec.
There is a "flat" spot just rear of the rear sight, it isn't generally perfectly plumb with the rear sight deck, but it should be pretty close. Remove the front sight use the base as another reference location. Use a couple sections of the cleaning rod and balance them on those 2 locations. That should give you a pretty good idea how bad it actually is. A bit of tape or a small rubber type pinch clamp to hold them in place while you work or so you can get a good look from the front or back of the barrelled action.
Once the barrel is indexed, you'll likely have to reset your op-rod guide location.
When I do a re-index, I completely strip every single part off the receiver and barrel. I tear it completely down, toss it all in the parts washer over night and then assemble it correctly. It never seems to work that way at the clinics, and they seem to turn out just fine!
John
I have a shorty that had a canted frt sight . After having the barrel indexed at one of Barneys clincs(using a GI flash hider), it was found to be under indexed. now the chinese flash hider and sight is even more canted to the left (almost 20 deg).
The flash hider splines were cut out of spec. It looks like they under indexed the barrel on purpose to "split the difference" to make it less noticeable, instead off scrapping the out of spec parts .
Don't use that crooked chinese flash hider to index your barrel, get a GI or other known "good " flash hider
Its worse than the pic shows.
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The flash hider splines were cut out of spec. It looks like they under indexed the barrel on purpose to "split the difference" to make it less noticeable, instead off scrapping the out of spec parts .
Don't use that crooked chinese flash hider to index your barrel, get a GI or other known "good " flash hider
Its worse than the pic shows.
Last edited:
TacticalTeacher
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Georgian Bay, ON
All great advice... Thanks, John (M14medic) for covering my butt! Saves me typing! 
Barney
Barney
Just use the chinese castle nut from the original flash hider
Anyone got any info on the small barell retaing screw ? I can move it about 1/4 turn after that its the screwdriver that dies(literally). Theirs mark each side i can turn it perpendicular to those. No matter its position i weight 195 pounds and the barel wont move an hair. (ive marked 3 spot) Either the chinese guy was a sumo or had a 20 feet wrench
peacemaker56 off course ! i don't know why i was thinking as it was a flash hider screw on type without castle nut.
peacemaker56 off course ! i don't know why i was thinking as it was a flash hider screw on type without castle nut.
m14medic.ca
Expried Business Member
- Location
- Regina SK Canada
Quite often the screw is staked in place.
I find about 20-25% need to be drilled out.... Canadian tire bits won't touch it either!
The screw serves no purpose, if it won't turn out, drill it out.
John
I find about 20-25% need to be drilled out.... Canadian tire bits won't touch it either!
The screw serves no purpose, if it won't turn out, drill it out.
John
