M14 New stock woes...

Tengoo

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I finally got around to putting my Norc shorty into my new Treeline stock. It looks great...but I can't quite get the trigger guard closed to fix it in place. The trigger assembly seems to fit right into place, but when I try to lock it in, there's no movement and when I press on it as hard as I dare the metal flexes...no engagement at all.

Now, the trigger group pretty tight in the Norinco plastic stock and I imagine there's only a tiny bit of stock material to remove to get the trigger guard onto place...but I'd like the experts here to advise me where to work on the stock.

Do I want to remove topside of the stock so the barreled action sits a touch lower into the stock, or do I work on the bottom of the stock so the trigger group moves a little closer in place. Or am I entirely off base here and should be looking at something else?
 
To get my shorty to fit in a USGI fiberglass stock I had to remove some stock material from under the trigger guard and under the trigger pads .The Shorty I received has a slightly larger receiver than my 2 polytechs or a Norinco that I compared it too.

Shorty1c.jpg



Once the trigger guard will close make sure you do a trigger assembly test to ensure you dont get slam fires.
 
Is it a USGI stock?
If so, then the trigger area is the correct area to address by equal removal of material from the front and rear trigger bearing points.
If it's a M1A stock like a boyd's or similat, the top right side of the stock must be altered to suit the chinese receiver's right side bearing surface.
 
As the Doc said ... the area he mentioned is the area above the red line on the right side of the receiver .
the Chinese have that surface at an angle .

arachangel1.jpg


I cut this groove in my Archangel stock for a different rifle of mine
arachangel1e.jpg
 
:eek: Holy smoldering slothdung!!! I did it!!! :D :sok2: :D

I rasped down the trigger guard area almost to the metal liner...still no joy. Then I started to work VERY carefully on the upper receiver area. I'd rasp a few strokes, then check, then a few more strokes. I guess I did this 8 or 10 times. Then the trigger guard started to go into place...and it snapped shut. It took some force and lockup is _very_ tight...but I guess that's what I'm looking for, right?? Wood-to-metal fit is still very good.

Phew. I was starting to worry that I was on the completely wrong track, and I was going to butcher a beautiful walnut stock to no avail. But now I'm a _very_ happy guy... :dancingbanana:

And for those of you that insist on pictures....

6533381833_23e6acd260_b.jpg



6533382471_bcf206fd20_b.jpg



6533381491_c6ae32d19c_b.jpg



[sigh] Now I have to take it apart again to clean up any leftover roughness and refinish the stock...but it's ALIIIIIVE!!! Look out zombies!
 
Don't forget to do the trigger safety checks listed in stickies and on this forum. Some stock swaps affect the trigger engagement, PS nice wood!
 
Don't forget to do the trigger safety checks listed in stickies and on this forum. Some stock swaps affect the trigger engagement, PS nice wood!

Done and done. The trigger and bolt seem to be behaving perfectly.

Yeah, that's a pretty nice stock. When you consider it's the lowest grade of the commercial walnut stocks Treeline sells, the better grades must be pretty fine indeed. Part of the look is the tung oil and wax finish Randy puts on these stocks...it is very nicely done. I'll probably maintain it as it is for the time being, although I wonder if some spar varathane or even good old boiled linseed oil might not be as good or better in terms of durability. The linseed would be more authentic, I believe...
 
:eek: Holy smoldering slothdung!!! I did it!!! :D :sok2: :D

I rasped down the trigger guard area almost to the metal liner...still no joy. Then I started to work VERY carefully on the upper receiver area. I'd rasp a few strokes, then check, then a few more strokes. I guess I did this 8 or 10 times. Then the trigger guard started to go into place...and it snapped shut. It took some force and lockup is _very_ tight...but I guess that's what I'm looking for, right?? Wood-to-metal fit is still very good.

Phew. I was starting to worry that I was on the completely wrong track, and I was going to butcher a beautiful walnut stock to no avail. But now I'm a _very_ happy guy... :dancingbanana:

And for those of you that insist on pictures....

6533381833_23e6acd260_b.jpg



6533382471_bcf206fd20_b.jpg



6533381491_c6ae32d19c_b.jpg



[sigh] Now I have to take it apart again to clean up any leftover roughness and refinish the stock...but it's ALIIIIIVE!!! Look out zombies!



Tengoo, what stock is this on Treeline website. I like it's looks.
 
Tengoo, what stock is this on Treeline website. I like its looks.

It's this one...

ht tp://www.treelinem14.com/M14-Wood-Stock-Walnut-M1A-11128-11128.htm

Randy has four grades of commercial stocks...the one I ordered was the cheapest, although I also got the full metal hardware upgrade. It was definitely worth the money not to have to mess around with pulling the hardware from my Norc stock and reinstalling it. But search his site thoroughly...he has quite a variety of USGI wood stocks in the same price ballpark [and super nice ones for lots more...:cool:].
 
It's this one...

ht tp://www.treelinem14.com/M14-Wood-Stock-Walnut-M1A-11128-11128.htm

Randy has four grades of commercial stocks...the one I ordered was the cheapest, although I also got the full metal hardware upgrade. It was definitely worth the money not to have to mess around with pulling the hardware from my Norc stock and reinstalling it. But search his site thoroughly...he has quite a variety of USGI wood stocks in the same price ballpark [and super nice ones for lots more...:cool:].

Thank you. Merry Christmas!:)
 
Thanks Chalky... If having to 'adjust' the stock a bit in that area is a commonplace procedure, I'll do it!

Anybody else...? I'd like to get a consensus on this before I start to 'bubba' a $200+ stock...

I had to do the very same thing when I put mine in a USGI walnut stock. Take care and remove material a hair at a time and you'll be fine.
 
Boyds stocks require the same "tweaking", but I always remove wood on the top right where the rear of the receiver mates its surface - nothing from the trigger guard area.

Then I saw this.......

Is it a USGI stock?
If so, then the trigger area is the correct area to address by equal removal of material from the front and rear trigger bearing points.
If it's a M1A stock like a boyd's or similat, the top right side of the stock must be altered to suit the chinese receiver's right side bearing surface.

making mine a redundant post.
 
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