m14 scope mount torque
- Thread starter hid
- Start date
maple_leaf_eh
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
The main screw engages the pre-threaded hole and ridges engage the slots on the receiver. The rear fitting screws into a block that replaces the clip guide. The third screw is probably a neutral tensioner to stabilize the whole mount. Visualize a chair with three legs. Too much weight on one side will unsettle the balance.
The other factor is in 2007 we look first at the scope mounting hole for trustworthiness; in 1960, the iron sights were primary and hardly anyone bothered with the scope hole. Consequently there are many variations in geometry, within the USGI spec and within manufacturers. Your scope base has to accommodate that sloppiness and hold your scope where you put it. Hungry described scoping the M14 as an art, let me offer a few water colour art lessons.
1) Start with your scope. Put the crosshairs in its natural centre (an even number of clicks left and right). There is a lot of gross adjustment in the mount, without using up all the internal adjustment.
2) Use a boresighter or the iron sights (assuming they are hitting in the centre), as the baseline to adjust the mount. On two or three screw mounts, there is probably a sleeve or hollow nut on the rear screw that will shift the mount left to right, pivoting on the centre screw. I had to make a thin wrench to get proper clearance, and find a wide screwdriver to turn the sleeve.
3) Only after you are hitting the paper at 100yds/m should you get started using the internal windage adjustments. This may take a while, plenty of fussing around, and use up 15 or 20 rounds. and,
4) When you are happily on paper, put loctite on the screw threads. Keep double checking your screws for tightness throughout the day. Make it part of your individual safety precautions.
The other factor is in 2007 we look first at the scope mounting hole for trustworthiness; in 1960, the iron sights were primary and hardly anyone bothered with the scope hole. Consequently there are many variations in geometry, within the USGI spec and within manufacturers. Your scope base has to accommodate that sloppiness and hold your scope where you put it. Hungry described scoping the M14 as an art, let me offer a few water colour art lessons.
1) Start with your scope. Put the crosshairs in its natural centre (an even number of clicks left and right). There is a lot of gross adjustment in the mount, without using up all the internal adjustment.
2) Use a boresighter or the iron sights (assuming they are hitting in the centre), as the baseline to adjust the mount. On two or three screw mounts, there is probably a sleeve or hollow nut on the rear screw that will shift the mount left to right, pivoting on the centre screw. I had to make a thin wrench to get proper clearance, and find a wide screwdriver to turn the sleeve.
3) Only after you are hitting the paper at 100yds/m should you get started using the internal windage adjustments. This may take a while, plenty of fussing around, and use up 15 or 20 rounds. and,
4) When you are happily on paper, put loctite on the screw threads. Keep double checking your screws for tightness throughout the day. Make it part of your individual safety precautions.
thk, maple
quote;
The main screw engages the pre-threaded hole and ridges engage the slots on the receiver. The rear fitting screws into a block that replaces the clip guide. The third screw is probably a neutral tensioner to stabilize the whole mount. Visualize a chair with three legs. Too much weight on one side will unsettle the balance.
the third screw--tensioner. how much tension is appropriate?
quote;
The main screw engages the pre-threaded hole and ridges engage the slots on the receiver. The rear fitting screws into a block that replaces the clip guide. The third screw is probably a neutral tensioner to stabilize the whole mount. Visualize a chair with three legs. Too much weight on one side will unsettle the balance.
the third screw--tensioner. how much tension is appropriate?
