M14 Tuning, Tweaks, Tips, and Inexpensive FUN.....

[TacticalTeacher]

I've decided to start up another thread on all the handy little tweaks I've been demonstrating and practicing over the past 3 decades. It's about time I could do this in my very own forum! ha ha ha

So let me get started with a bunch of posts for you guys to try on your M14 / M1A/ M305 rifles of all sorts!

Here goes....


Oh yeah, before we get started... here are some MUST Have Precision Tools to work on Norinco rifles....

Ha ha ha ha

Remember, it's a Norinco. You can only make them better.....

 

[Hungry]

Been a few years since I posted M14 fun as a Super Mod, since then I've been Tactical Teacher. Lately since Wolverine Supplies (board sponsor) has imported all those IDF M14 Parts Kits, It's like back to the future for me (1985-86) and I'm working with REAL USGI parts from Israel once again. What's not to like?

How to Avoid using SHIMS to tighten up your gas system.... FOREVER!

Most of your parts kit owners have realized that the USGI M14 gas system assembly and front band come very loose from the factory. Hey, it's a battle rifle, what did you expect??

So the US AMTU Teams developed techniques to tighten things up under the front band and the barrel shoulder. Well the weakness of shims is the rapid corrosion that occurs when burned powder residue reacts with water (carbon attracts water, get it ?). So what to do?

I use a series of gas cylinder locks (bought in large quantity from Brownells) and trial fit once and then 180 flip trick until I get the perfect fit. Of coure with a Norinco, where does one obtain these spare gas cylinder locks? We trade around at my clinics (presented across the country since 2003) among you Norinco owners. You will be surprised how neat and easy this works for Norinco barrels and gas systems.

Now back to the American barrels and USGI parts kits from IDF / Israel...

Here is a picture of my attempt to trial fit gas cylinder lock(s). Examine the picture for the numerous different gas cylinder locks:


Okay PhotoBucket is messing with me... no more pictures until I can take fresh ones.....


My USGI gas cylinder from Israel had a gas cylinder lock that tightened the entire gas system and ended up clocking (position of the gas cylinder lock using clock ray method) at around 12 o'clock, almost TDC, top dead center.

So by fitting and examining where your different gas cylinder locks clock, one can try and obtain the tightest fit. Which happens to be "Contact at around 4 o'clock and rubber mallet into position at BDC, bottom dead center, or 6 o'clock.


NO shims needed Forever! Besides, I broke my tools....

Here I am at BDC (bottom dead center with a tight fit on my SAK USGI barrel):


Okay PhotoBucket is messing with me... no more pictures until I can take fresh ones.....

Have a look at the colour or finish of the gas cylinder lock from Brownells (blued) versus the worn stainless steel USGI gas cylinder. Hey, who cares about the finish? I'm (ok, I was...) a match shooter so finish don't matter to me....

My offer, You are welcome to send me your barreled receiver and I can do this operation for you. We just swap ONE for ONE, gas cylinder locks. For those of you in the GTA, drop me a line and swing by my workshop and we can do this operation FOR you!

Questions ? Bring them on....

Cheers and enjoy the M14 addiction

Barney

 

[TacticalTeacher]

Hungry here, or my alter ego; TacticalTeacher....


How to Tighten up a loose Op Rod Guide (More expensive method)


As I opened up the box containing my IDF Sniper rifle parts kit from Wolverine Supplies, I immediately grabbed the barrelled receiver stub and wiggled the op rod guide. For you new-to-M14-platform fellas, it's the figure 8 thingy under the barrel/handguard. Give yours a wiggle (that sounded weird)

If it's loose this situation can/will/may cause a deterioration in your rifle's ability to group well. Life being perfect , you would like the numerous moving parts of a semi-auto to return to battery consistently, hence tighter groups...

Here's how it's done... take your 1/8" punch and knock out the pin, recover that pin. If your pin shattered like mine did, don't worry, I can mail you a spare. They are a 1/8" x 3/4" long and I've got just under a thousand (smallest amount I could possibly purchase).

Once that pin is out, slide your op rod guide forward to the muzzle (force of habit, I dunno why I always do that....)

Now bust open your "Knurlmaster" Knurling tool and have at 'er.....In the past several clinics we just dimpled the surface around the smooth barrel contact point and 'raised' or 'cratered' the barrel metal, being careful not to hit it too hard and cause damage to the inside bore... Have a look at the pictures....







There's one view of the Knurler tool doing it's thing "raising" the metal so that the op rod guide can have some friction to bear against.

Here's another view of the Knurling tool in action after one pass on the muzzle side of the barrel...






As you can see, I've already knurled ONE line along the forward half of the barrel contact/interface. Now to do the next half... It's really a simple process once you have the right tools. They are not cheap so it's likely easier to purchase and center punch and dimple the metal like we do at the clinics...



Okay, here is the completed knurling job and I've replaced the op rod guide with a fresh pin since the original factory pin shattered on being punched out...






There, have a look at the photograph and notice that I've hammered that op rod guide pin back into place and you can see the border of the op rod guide adjacent to the knurled barrel surface. Nice and tight. No wiggling. This is the treatment I expected from the IDF, but I ain't gonna complain. I'm just grateful John Hipwell (or Mr Wolverine) was kind and able enough to bring there here for us... Life is good...


Anyways bring on the questions after you wiggle you op rod guide. Many experts and businesses on here can help you! Don't suffer in silence. We have built one heck of a community here since we got CGNutz started back in (I'm getting old.... Greentips better chime in here...) 2002? 2003?

Cheers,

Barney

 

[TacticalTeacher]

How to Tighten Up a Sloppy and Rattling Handguard



One of our favorite tweaks in our Shooting Team (NRA High Power) was to tighten up a ratting handguard. Believe it or not the Norinco black handguards are pretty tight as they come from the factory... It's the USGI brown fiberglass handguards that make a racket. If you have an IDF Sniper rifle parts set, then you know what I mean


I use a broken pin punch to remove the handguard clip off the barrel, take off the stock and look under that handguard clip, there are holes on each underside of the clip....







Once you have that handguard removed, I use a pair of purpose built handguard pliers (about $25 from Brownells) or Numrich Gun Parts as you see in the bottom right of the picture below:





Then I take the clip and RESIN that clip directly on the fiberglass handguard and PUSH it forward as far as it can go into the front band (picture coming)


Now resin (JB Weld is my go-to resin) that front band interior to the interface tip of the handguard/ front end. Wipe off the excess or over squeeze'd resin with tissue and acetone.







If I don't want to use resin (a more permanent fix that it is...) then I will wax the UNDER Side of the clip (prevents rust). Also this is a great fix for the rust prone handguard clips found on older M1 Garands since the walnut rear handguard went several years in contact with the metal retaining clip.... gets rusty over the years. So we just wax it with Neutral shoe polish.

If you don't have access to Neutral Shoe Polish, then Carnauba Wax from Cambodian Tire will do the job. If you cannot get away to Ukrainian Tire, then use candle wax as you can see in this picture....





Now instead of bonding the fiberglass handguard TO the metal handguard clip, just take a punch and push/hammer/tap that clip as far forward as you can:





And the other side....





Wanna get more serious? Take a center punch and STAKE that handguard clip in the forward position, both sides, of course. Yeah, go ahead and locate that handguard clip groove on the barrel (remove the stock). Now have a look under that handguard / barrel area. See those grooves? That's where you stake it....


There you go... no more handguard rattle... A simple fix and a complicated more permanent fix...


Cheers and enjoy the addiction

Barney

 

[TacticalTeacher]

How to ReBarrel Your Norinco/LRB/Bula/JRA/ SAI M1A Receiver with an IDF Parts Kit



So it's time to get back to some serious tweaks (not cheap if you don't have the tools)... cheaper if you send it to me or experts like M14Medic or Doug at Ellwood Epps or Casey at TacOrd or Jason at Gunco, etc, etc, etc

First of all, tape up your receivers and barrel 'scallops' where the wrenches/vises are gonna grab and force things....





Then clamp up the barrel that has to be removed from the IDF M14 issued barrel/ receiver stub :





Once your barrel vise is nice and tight, clamp the entire vise/barrel assembly into your vise for receiver stub removal; remember, righty tighty, lefty loosey.....



Here's a picture of the Norinco (donor receiver 2009 vintage) all clamped up with the right side set screw removed. It's taped up and ready for the 6" vise:






Here's that Norinco barrel coming off the receiver.... WTF?





Have a closer look... what did that Xhinese High School Shop Class use on the threads? Can't they read the Engrish in Kuhnhausen's Book ??






And once you get that stub off, grease up those new barrel / replacement barrel threads....





Here comes the fun part. Once your new-to-install barrel (hey, this one's a TRW...) is greased up and screwed into the receiver, then tape things up and clamp things back into place. Get that receiver wrench in place and get ready to pull down (use gravity where you can) with your body weight....





In this next picture, I have clamped the stainless steel aerospace grade (yeah, right ) to the rear flat just behind the rear sights AND also to the front sight flats of a USGI flash suppressor (don't use a Zhinese one, they are not always flat/level/evenly cut).

See if you can see the upright parallels... this is the key to indexing....





I like to bring my eye to the right and left and monitor the 2 upright parallels as they almost line up. Can you see that these parallels are showing perfect indexing position? Watch how I bring the camera right and left.....










And now back and forth until the front parallel totally covers the rear upright parallel. No slivers of light, NO shadows revealed... We are good to go... remove them clamps!





We are done...

Now remove the clamps, remove the tape and it's residue...

Start the rebuilding process!

Cheers....


Barney

 

[TacticalTeacher]

How to Grease Your M14 / M305 / M1A / and a Garand (very similar) and What to Use...


So what kind of grease? Well I'm not gonna start a bun fight but honestly Mr. Jean Cantius Garand never specified which brand of high tech composition grease back in 1936, but the USGI Manual did mention Molybdenum DiSulfide in there and let's use that as a starting point before our collective dicks fall off. In reality, if you don't grease your M1A / M14 / M305/ Garand, your #### WILL fall off...


My applicators.... use what you can even Qtips, popsicle sticks, your fingers, expired toothbrushes ... these syringes sure make life easy though....





My particular favorite brand of grease only because it's white and easy to squeeze into the 12 mL 'Curved Tip' syringes from a Veterinarian Supply business/orthodontist/dentist/ East Vancouver dumpster, Toronto Beaches area on Lake Ontario Shoreline, Calgary needle exchange site, yada yada yada

Here's a stealthy spot to smooth up your safety when it is engaged... Let the hammer forward. Locate that interior curve where the safety hooks the hammer (when rifle is cocked of course). A dab of grease on the hook...

Now the hammer hooks where they engage the hammer sear... Grease it and work the hammer (#### and click that hammer) and squeeze the trigger. Work that grease into the engaging surfaces.

This one is an easy one... examine the face of your hammer for the wear marks where bolt rides rear ward on the hammer face.... Then locate the hammer NOSE , you will spot it right away. Grease that FACE and NOSE of the hammer. Just look at my picture:

Can you see the syringe tip pointing at the "nose" of the hammer?


Now have a look at the piston/sliding/cylindrical portion of the Operating rod or the Op rod.... See where my CGN handle is written? Grease that portion as it rides through the op rod guide (figure 8 shaped thingy under the barrel).

Here's a picture of the op rod guide, AND the reminder to spread that grease 180* degrees around the op rod piston portion:

Now turn the receiver on its side and locate the op rod track... lay down a thin layer of grease where the op rod tab slides around....

See them wiggly Z patterns???


Now look closer at the bolt lug bearing zone(s) on the receiver, in this case, I left a dab of grease where the bolt lugs will lock:

So grab your op rod, locate the op rod HUMP where the roller interfaces and operates. We need a pile of grease there..... LOTS...BIG dab, you can use your fingers if you need to.... See the large drops of grease??

Back to the bolt roller... I have a special tool ($3.00 at Brownells with $24 shipping)...Just fill the cavity with grease and PUSH in/on to the bolt roller like this:

Other places you don't mind greasing:

* Threads of the gas cylinder plug

* Castle nut thread

* Flash suppressor set screw thread

And another view....

* Front sight screw threads:

These areas never hurt to have a little dab of grease when you are reassembling this rig at home.


There you go... One cannot always afford the highest end M14/M305/M1A/ M1 Garand, but one can certainly take good care of it and ensure optimal operating conditions!


Pay it forward and teach this stuff to the newbs!


Barney

 

[TacticalTeacher]

How to Install a CASM Mount (M14.ca)

This is my first time ever installing one of these creations by Frank of M14.ca ... It's been a super experience so I thought I will share my observations.

When I opened my client's box from M14.ca, I found some cool things:

Look , spare screws/bolts/set screws and... a small tube of Loctite (which I returned to my client, and used my own Blue LocTite). First impressions are super favorable and I'm really stoked. I even appreciated his Allen key size suggestions right from the beginning: 5/32", and 3/32" sizes needed. Thanks, FrankG





I tried to rotate this baby, let's see if photobucket cooperates... nah, it's not working...


So after reading the directions TWICE (30 year teaching professional, here), I started with what FrankG recommends, and that's using LocTite on all screws/bolt. And I started with the left side (portside) wing bolt/screw.






Then we have to install the right side wing (bolt / screw/nut) and tighten it up...





I particularly appreciated the reading/tech information about overtightening the front bolt on the receiver bridge.. they even included a graphic picture showing a 1/16" turn to prevent over tightening this baby and then bending of the scope base. Be Gentle!





Check out sparing use of LocTite, just enough to cover the threads and work around. Over squeeze Loctite should always be cleaned up right away, otherwise, it's a mess when dried up. See that Allen key and set screw with a trace amount of Loctite? Go easy...

Here... a closer look at the trace amount of Loctite 243 on the set screw.....




Here's a pic of my Allen keys doing the final tightening process. Go easy with no more than 1/16 turn... This happens to be the rear vertical tension screw... easy peasy....





I know, I know...photobucket is a PITA to work with. You get the right impression from this picture anyways. That's important....

AH, feces.... a little too much Loctite on the set screw... instead of dripping the threadlocker on the set screw, I just placed a drop on the bench top and then dipped the threads ever so gently...





So that last pair to install would be the rear set/tension screws... almost done...






There, a drop to did your threads into is easier to clean up at the end of the installation....

Okay, I'm done... here's a picture of the included Loctite as provided by the great folks at M14.ca Thanks for a great kit and sight mount.


Thanks making such a great kit and facilitating a super smooth installation! For you newbies looking for a scope mount for your M14/M305/M14S/ LRB / JRA/ Bula/ Smith/ Armscorp/ Federal made rig, go ahead and get one of these babies. The instructions are well written as I DID look for spelling errors (30 year professional edumakator, here). This is a straightforward install. Bring on any questions you may have. Don't forget to swing by M14.ca and have a read through all their resources...


Cheers,

Barney

 

[TacticalTeacher]

How to Mount a Scope on Your M14/M1A/M305 PR or SR or DMR Rig and Keep it Level

On one of my previous posts, I spoke about installing a CASM Mount on your M14/M305/M1A/Garand rifle. Now let's chat about ONE very common mistake and that's leveling your reticle, and keeping it level, but on the CHEAP.... This technique will work for ANY scope with flat surfaces (most of them on the flat top of the elevation knob).

Many rookie scope mounters find that keeping your scope reticle level as you tighten down both left/portside and right/starboard screws, they may cause the reticle to shift/slant/tilt over to the left (like Turdeau) or right (like Rona Ambrose... whom I have a crush on... okay, maybe Calgary's Michelle Rempel...)


Hopefully you are more comfortable (skill set, experience, tool inventory) with doing scope mounting that most rookies, so that's where I'm gonna start. If you are very experienced mounting scopes, then I hope to raise the level (great pun, get it ? ) of your skill set. ha ha ha



Materials needed:

* your scope
* scope rings of your choice
* your rifle already mounted in it's stock, clamped in bench vise, hopefully not on a slanted floor
* Reliable screwdriver with correct sized/shaped bits (Allen, Torx, Flat blade, etc)

And finally:

A string level... I bought this one at Home Depot for $5.00 give or take (didn't I say CHEAP??). I told you guys I've 30 years in the classroom as a professional edumakator so I'm a cheap bugger....





This baby happens to balance nicely on my Bushnell 10 x 40mm Mildot scope that I bought off the EE Forum from a super CGNutter in SK. Yep, it's sitting nicely on top of the elevation knob. I've also done this with my Leupold Vari-X3 4.5 x 14 x 50mm hunting scope that sits on my Winnie Model 70 .308, all Leupold's elevation knobs have a tiny flat circular surface, and this light and small sting level fits the top surface.


Okay first thing you gotta do is space out your rings on the base (I'm assuming you know how to do that). If you need help doing this, we gotta talk. I'm also assuming you know how to adjust your eye relief to obtain a clear image (I like to use a white freezer door in my basement) without any black donuts. If you don't know how to do this, re-consider reading this post, it might be a tad advanced for you.

Now that you have your ring spacing and eye relationship and field of view established you are likely ready to start screwing down the top hemisphere of the rings. Go ahead and lightly install them.

Now place the string level on top of the elevation knob like this:





Begin torquing down one side BUT ensure that bubble remains level and balanced between the stadia lines... if it tilts (bubble moves to one side), back off the screwdriver. Start again, from level and light tension on that screw. Tighten down just before that bubble shifts.

NOW, do the other side... the bubble should not shift. If it does , back off , and switch sides.

What you are doing is ensuring that the screw(s) from side to side do not tighten so much as to CANT that reticle.

THAT is the key to ensuring a flat reticle as best you can on the CHEAP ($5 sting level at Home Depot) or what ever hardware store you frequent/support/shop at.

Now go and do the other ring the same way. Ensure that bubble remains level. If it shifts, they you know that screw tensioning process is shifting the level of the reticle. Start again and screw down JUST Enough to avoid tilting that bubble.


Questions?


I'm done....




Many of you experts / experienced shooters out there likely have your OWN techniques and skill set doing this. My point is a $5 level can sure make life very easy and ensure your reticle is level (for the most part)...

Hope this helps your game!

Train like you compete, then compete like you train....


Cheers,
Barney

 

[TacticalTeacher]

How to Remove Your Xhinese Flash Suppressor


The Norinco dudes are not responding to my emails about the Assault Weapon Ban from 1992-4. Bill Clinton passed that law and the Qhinese started welding the flash suppressor to entend the barrel and unitize the two together. I've been trying to save them a few manufacturing (saves money) steps for the past 15 years by trying to tell them that AWB of 92-4 has sunset'ed and Bill Clinton (Dem) in no longer the POTUS (Prez of US).

Nevertheless, here we are with flash suppressors welded on. We need to access them so that I can 180 Flip Trick the gas cylinder lock and quite possibly avoid using a shim or two to tighten the FZCK out of that gas cylinder assembly....

Okay, remove the front sight and put it aside... Then clamp the receiver, usually by the receiver mortise(s), those two tangs that hang beneath the bolt and lock the trigger group. Go and have a look if you are not sure.

Now using (sometimes a 1/16" Allen key, all depends on what set screw the high school shop class kids used) an Allen key, remove that set screw and don't lose it...

Take a set of Castle Nut pliers and loosen that castle nut. Hint: I like to take a plastic mallet and / or wooden block or hockey puck and give that front of flash suppressor whack to the rear so that some tension (real or perceived) can be taken away from the castle nut. Now get that castle nut loosened.






Then keep that first aid kit handy, you might draw blood if the welding job was done on a Wednesday in front of the High School Shop Teacher and Ministry of Edumacation Inspector...




Another view of where to locate the cold chisel , beneath the dovetail of the front sight. Now have a look at the castle nut... we have rotated it FORWARD and created a GAP for the welded FS unit to move once the welds are "broken". If your rifle was welded on Monday morning at 0900 or Friday afternoon before a long weekend, then only a couple of taps will break those welds...





Knife point (Kershaw Cryo, my EDC) shows that gap that will be reduced/shrunk to indicate the welds are broken....


There, we got it off and we are just cleaning the threads and splines (3 of them) free and clear of the bead blast grit (the shop class kids bead blast the barreled receiver then parkerize everything all at once)

The piston is there to show how I use a high tech piston alignment tool (aerospace grade, I sell these to you for $50 mailed)....

Oh BTW, we found the gas cylinder lock extended past bottom dead center so we did the 180 Flip Trick and YES , we tightened the gas cylinder assembly to perfection JUST by flipping the lock around. That's it....






I like to grease up the threads of the castle nut before re-assembly:





We destroyed the Xhinese flash suppressor BTW, and I happened to have a USGI unit handy for $75. Now we are placing a dab of grease on the castle nut set screw (always have spares)





Another view of the castle nut set screw going in....





Install or replace your front sight (Zhinese ones require a lot of swearing.... I swear). Grease up the front sight screw... Makes life easier forever...





And finally, a picture to share the precision tools one needs to use in order to work on Norinco Rifles....





Hope this helps you... Always keep spare parts for when you do Screw UP... Remember, it's a Norinco; you can only make them better!

Cheers,

Barney

 

[TacticalTeacher]

So did we talk about the tools needed for Precision work on a Norinco?? ha ha ha

I cannot resist....





Let's get this clear... I'm showing you how to do the MINOR tweaks and save some $$ so that you can upgrade your rig down the road and USE your local gunsmith for the LARGE projects (rebarreling, glass bedding, stock upgrading) and all the others things I teach on DAY 2 of an M14 clinic/camp.

For example: Doug at Ellwood Epps and I often "trade notes" on rebarreling, restocking, and other large Garand projects. So that said, I do help the Gunsmiths, too. It's a win-win situation. What's not to like ?

Another example: Casey at TacOrd and I often "trade insights" on rebarreling and Cerakoting M14 rigs. I continue to send clients like you guys to these real experts!

Okay... back at 'er....

How to Install a Boyd's Finished M1A Walnut Stock

Big shout out to KCCO1988 for supplying the materials for this upgrade / project. He purchased the Boyd's Stock from the factory and then bought all the stock metalwork from Randy at TreelineM14 dot com. All that you see in the pictures are from these suppliers.


So wipe the drool off the Boyd's walnut stock before you begin to work on it.... Then using a Stock Liner tool (t-handle) or other improvised tool (ground down needle nose pliers, Like I used to do) ; begin by tightening the stock liner screws. Push on the inside of the stock liner so that the screw commences it's "bite"




The stock holes drilled are tight, tight, madafaking tight.... push hard. Put down your purse if you have to... ha ha ha ha






Now, since the stock is marketed to "Muricans" the M1A receivers ALL come with longer (read: correct length connector locks that are longer than Kommunist Zhinese connector locks). Notice that on your M14S / M305 receiver, the connector locks sits FLUSH when it's closed to secure the op rod spring and guide? Under magazine tension (while firing), this Xhinese connector lock can migrate/work loose and no longer contains the op rod spring and guide, and you cannot yank the magazine OUT...

You now have a major cluster fornication.... Especially of that magazine has booolits in it...

So popsicle stick fix to the rescue, or something else more aesthetically or tactical fitting needed....





Cut the popsicle stick to length ... how long? Just enough to run the length of that cutout for longer M1A connector lock (really 'Murican).





See how it fits into the cutout just nicely?





Now you are ready to glue/resin/JB Weld/Devcon (a little overkill) that portion of popsicle stick into place. Folded up duct/masking/hockey tape works but not always reliable.

The front ferrule has to be added to the Boyd's stock. It does not come from Boyd's factory.... Align it and dry fit it without any glue/JB Weld / Devcon/ Marine Tex





I am now ready to glue that ferrule (TreelineM14 dot com) into place... JB Weld is cheap and easy to work with. JB Kwik is nice with the 10 minute work time....




Okay now it's time to work on the sling swivel plate up front. Here are the bits and pieces that came from Randy at TreelineM14 dot com:




You will see the blackened "Phillips" screws likely about 3/8" because they don't know how thick YOUR stock can/will/should/might be when you get it. They don't know that type of stock you will be installing things on....


So here I come along with Allen drive button head 3/8" long screws .... with # 10 x 24 tpi bolts that I bought for 49 cents a pound at a local Princess Auto





Okay position and "dry run" your screw / hardware setting including the washers and see how they come together:





Kinda hard to work upside down but be ready anyways with your sling plate:





Now be warned, the Boyd's stock is a little FAT or Phat and we had to use some 1/2" long button head Allen drive, center of the picture. See the difference?





The longer screws give you a few more options because one never knows how thick the stock will turn out to be. Many of you experts out there know that in the past I have laid down up to 5-10 layers of 10 ounce fiberglass cloth and resin in order to stiffen up that noodley front end of the USGI glass stock

The prepared holes are really small/tight/narrow and need some 'thread chasing' done; so we just screwed things in and out a few times. Then install washers and bolts...




Okay, so we have a couple of threads too long. Before we start dremel'ing things down, take your barreled receiver and trial fit to see if the gas cylinder contacts/conflicts/interferes. I do this by taping the bottom of my gas cylinder (clear hockey tape, thin masking tape, red Tuck tape) and seeing if the tape is scratched/abraded/rubbed/torn/ripped.

So either dremel them down or leave them be. You don't need me to show you how to use a dremel tool do you?




I love Milwaukee M18 fun because I have a sparky background and did work in construction....





So as you can see, both the 1/2" shank screws might need some dremeling or grinding down...





And here we are with the very clean/tactical/professional looking hardware securing the sling plate on:





Oh yeah, did I mention NOT to install the sling plate on BACKWARDS? I did this once....

Okay, have a cold Stella or Rikards Red and watch Band of Brothers (boxed set) while fondling your walnut stocked M1A/M305/M14

Cheers and thanks for reading this post...


Barney aka Hungry aka TacticalTeacher

 

[TacticalTeacher]

How to Build A McMillan M1A stock when you can not afford $1000 CDN (landed here). For years I used to shoot NRA High Power NM Course of Fire with an M1A. Those days are long gone but I do want to casually return to my roots so instead of importing a NM M1A Fat Bastard Stock, I shall just build a super stiff and strong stock and I still get my beloved GAP Camo colour pattern.


FYI, they sell for $548 USD at McMillan’s site.... $599 in black at Fulton Armory site. By the time you land it here to build your own Super Match, you are looking at close to $1000 Cdn. So for all the PR shooting I’m gonna do with my Super Match, I’m just gonna build my own super stiff / reinforced USGI Glass stock, besides, we are not entering this rifle into any beauty contests!


So let’s take this project in stages....

Before you start glassing:

Acetone....your best friend and saviour for when you FZCK Up! Ask me how I know to have TWO bottles of Acetone before starting the project. It’s not that I know more than you, it’s because I’ve FXCKED Up more times than all of you out there! Hahahaha






Measuring the inside channel of USGI Glass stock. I took a piece of paper and cut then trimmed it to fit under the right and left lip of the forestock channel. I have added 8 layers of glass here in the past to obtain a very stiff front end. And I will add another 6 layers to the exterior of the stock in an attempt to mimick the fat bastard profile of the NM M1A stock as McMillan builds and sells them.






Dollar Store for Brushes that you are gonna toss anyways. What size? About an inch wide for the layering of the glass cloth. Cheaper brushes are the way to go. About 1/2” wide for just a few single layers of glass cloth or tighter spaces. Smallest brushed for applying the paint colour in form of pigmented resin epoxy. Most durable and resists insect repellent stains at matches.







Pigment bottles for colouring the resin, saves Krylon Spray Paint and lasts longer. I bought a complete set for $100 at Atlas Machinery in Toronto. Great online sales page, decent shipping rates, too. Otherwise, I used to buy them in limited selection available at Cambodian Tire. Just remember how to mix primary colours to obtain secondary colours. Remember how to tint with white and shade with black....you did take art class in school didn’t you?

Let me add.... I’m using black background pigment for a good reason. You see in the end I want the GAP Camo effect. Just a personal bias for this camo pattern. Nothing special. In the past back in 2010 I built another reinforced McMillan “Urban” Camo or “Navy” Camo comprised of three colours: Black, Grey, Azzura / Ocean blue (deeper than royal blue, but not quite navy blue). To achieve these colours I only needed : Black, White, and Blue colour pigments (from Ukrainian Tire). Grey could be obtained by mixing equal amounts of black & white pigment.

Then I used Black as a base pigment/colour for the entire glass reinforcing so that no matter how deep/ shallow/ smooth/ rough sanded/rasped, I was gonna end up with a black background to “epoxy paint” the blue and grey patches.

GAP Camo consists of Black (background colour) and OD Green and Tan. So once again, black is the background and it will appear should I sand THROUGH the OD or Tan brown pigment layers.







Medication Cups or WAX Paper Bathroom cups work well... these are used for mixing the epoxy and hardener and then you apply the epoxy with your paint brush(es)








Cutting your cloth into 2” wide strips. These will sit inside the forestock channel. You will have to make them wide for the exterior of the forestock to the tune of 4” or 5”.






Set up Your Work Stand in Garage. I like step ladders, many shelves to stay organized and easy to move.






To be continued.....

 

[TacticalTeacher]

Next Steps in the Preparation Process


Secure your Dowelling with Clamps on the Workstand





Dowelling 3/4” fits inside the buttstock cavity





Just added the Black Pigment paste to the 30 mL of resin. Hardener in background. 30mL To 10 drops of hardener or if you use just 15 mL merely add 5 or 6 drops of hardener in that measured medicine cup (visit your buddy in the hospital, make them take their meds and swipe the disposable plastic cup) LOL.....








Keep that Acetone squeeze bottle near by along with small napkins or quarter sheets of paper towel. The reason I recommend a squeeze bottle is because 2 handed approach to pouring acetone on paper towel piece is hard to do with sticky hardening resin on your fingers. Squeeze bottle is easy to apply single handedly on a piece of rag or paper towel section. Clean up regularly as you progress through. Don’t wait until the end to clean up (might step into the dropped hardening resin...)







First four layers of glass cloth inside ....resin layer painted on first, I hope you wiped all surfaces with Acetone and rag to degrease and ensure a solid bond. The reason I painted / applied a coat of resin into the surface inside the fore stock is so that the fibreglass cloth sections will STICK to the inside. Now you can slap on more layers/ strips of glass cloth and pour/apply/paint some more resin on top, then spread out that resin thinly over the fibreglass cloth strip.








Another picture of Pigment to be added, some of you fiberglassing rookies might just use the clear resin without pigmenting/ colouring said epoxy. It’s all good. Do what works for your comfort level and desired project outcomes!

 

[TacticalTeacher]

More glassing Fun


Along the outside of forestock first 2 layers and the stiffening build up starts

 

[TacticalTeacher]

More things to be posted soon

 

[TacticalTeacher]

And more things coming as we proceed to stiffen this stock

 

[TacticalTeacher]

And more things to come

 

[TacticalTeacher]

This should do it for the project narration I guess