M14 Tweaks report - Bedding pictures added

Ganderite

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Putting the pads under the trigger guard squishers did not help much. When I took the cardboard off and glued on some thin plastic (my library card) the trigger guard would not close. plastic was too thick. I think some plastic off a blister package would be about right.

I have looked at the plastic stock that comes with the shorty, and find that it is similar to the USGI synthetic stock in one respect. The stock has a ridge inside that looks like it should support the action rails around the front half of the mag well.


Looking into the bottom of the mag well, you can see that the rails are well clear of the magazine support rails. I have started to bed both my rifles to support the action here. My theory is that it cannot hurt.

There are two minor issues to deal with. First, the little cross pin that hold the op rod spring guide cannot be glued in. I covered this center section with a dab of Plasticine.

Second, the amount of clearance is so big that it cannot be bedded in one shot. My USGI stock required three bedding sessions before the action squished into the JB Weld.

I will make up some decent ammo for these rifles and shoot them. neither is scoped, so I will shoot at a round aiming mark using the aperture front sight.

I have some factory brass that was made 5 thou long for shooting in my m14s. I will try that, with Varget and some 155 match bullets. That will give me an idea of what the stock Norc m14 will do. I am hoping for 2 minutes. My old eyes might be the limiting factor.
 
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They say a picture is worth 1,000 words. So here is a long explanation of how I bedded the front of the receiver. Both the plastic shorty stock and the USGI synthetic stock have no support for the front bottom of the action.

The three key ingredients to this project are Plasticine to control where the bedding compounds sits; spray silicon mold release, so the rifle comes apart and , of course bedding compound. I used JB Weld, but Devcon F would be better.

I put a tiny worm of Plasticine on either side of the spring guide and in the guide retaining pin slot, so the guide would not be glued in place. Then A put a Plasticine cap over the guide, to keep the goop off of it. The action was sprayed with mold release.

Then a thin slab of Plasticine was placed at the front and back of the area that I wanted to fill with bedding compound. The remnants of these two walls can be seen in the pictures.

M14sbedding3.jpg


The bedding compound was poured into the area and spread along the two ledges on the stock walls.

M14sbedding2.jpg


M14sbedding1.jpg


The action was then put in the stock and clamped in place with the trigger group.

The results look good. I course file will be used vertically to clean the ooze out of the mag well.


I do not know if this will help groups or not. I hope to test it tomorrow. Stay tuned.
 
Just a heads up. I know most plasticine contain sulfur and can negatively effect the curing of silicone. Professional modelling clay is sulfur free for those who start getting into the more in depth stuff. A large brick of the stuff is about $12 and is guarrenteed to never dry out. Not sure how that works but the stuff is stiff as hell until you work it a bunch.
 
Plasticine is soft and pliable and easy to mold into the shape I want. I find modeling clay unsuitable to work with.

As for the sulfur and silicone issue - has not been a problem for the last 40 years.....
 
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