M1910 Ross-some questions

[Joe Turner]

just acquired a M1910 Ross Mk.III*. It is in overall nice shape. Metal retains about 60% bluing, no dents or dings on metal or wood. The bolt is smooth, the bolt head screw threads are clean, smooth and unbattered. Close examination reveals no cracks or stress marks. The bolt locks up nice and firm. Two minor wood filled repairs in the area of the knox form, probably to restore from a hole boring demil in that area. the stock is dirty but not sanded, almost all marks, cartouches are pretty sharp, the station cartouche is very faint as if it was not struck deeply. The bore is fair-good with no pitting, and has a dull satin surface-I'd say its been fired a lot over the years but cleaned regularly.
Knox form is stamped " not english made " " nitro prooved " has the Canadian proof stamp on the barrel and receiver. The number 742 is stamped where the barrel joins the receiver. The right butt stock has two rectangular catouches with the capitol letters SHA in them, one is followed by the number 369 To the left of the III* stamp is ESA
RPD
6 44

The serial number is 177 ( struck through with a line but no other number near by) over 1916. There is a small capitol letter E on the knox form which means I have the dreaded enlarged chamber. The stock is stamped in small capiol letters DP on the fore arm, the lower barrel band and the top of the handguard. I am assuming someone needed a good stock to rebuild a rifle and used a DP stock that had been repaired. Very nice stock in any case. It looks like a red birch under the dirt. I have fired this rifle and am pleased with the extraction, The fied cases are not badly bulged bvut you can tell they are from an oversized chamber. accuracy is so-so. The bayonet I have fits fine. I am curious to know if there are any M1910 Ross barrels available from any parts dealers or would I be better off having the original barrel relined giving me a new bore and tighter chamber? Comments, opinions are most welcome. I really like Rosses and this is the first full military I Ross I have owned, the others being cut down stock types that had to be rebuilt. Thanks folks! Joe

 

[TimC]

Perhaps having the barrel removed, set back and rechambered may restore it sufficiently. It may only need one thread but its work I'd get done professionally unless you know where spare barrels are?

 

[tiriaq]

The Indian DP rifles had holes drilled through the barrel breeches, and pins welded in. The stocks were notched as you have described. I doubt that the oversized chamber would cause a great reduction in accuracy; bore condition is more important. Have never heard of high pressure barrels being relined. If the barrel were set back one thread, the oversized chamber would not be cleaned up when the reamer was run in.
The rifle was obviously in England, perhaps one of the rifles supplied for the Home Guard during WW2. I have heard that these rifles were serial numbered at the breech. Rosses being numbered the way they were, the stock marks have a different story to tell than the barreled action.

 

[Joe Turner]

At this point I am sort of thinking out loud. the chamber is smooth and clean, fired brass is not ( to me ) excessively expanded although you can tell it was fired in an oversize or enlarged chamber. No primer set back, extraction was easy even when warm. Its the bore itself that could be the biggest problem in that it is worn but decently clean with no pitting but definitey worn. I was able to get 6 inch groups from a bench rest ( no rifle rest though, just my holding the rifle propeed up to shoot ) with five shots at 100 yards. For me that is good so for the present. setting the barrel back a thread obviously would not solve the worn bore problem. I know I can have a custom barrel turned and fitted but that is an expensive proposition as well. Right now the rifle seems to shoot fine, but I always like to sort of pose these concerns to others who have more knowledge or experience about the Ross than I do. Thanks for your input folks and keep them coming. I do know that one solution would be to find a complete Ross M1910 in better shape than the one I have now but I would have to sell my body ( such as it is ) for medical experiments to get one. Joe

 

[PerversPépère]

You should try slugging that barrel. If it is reasonably smooth, you could try shooting oversize (.314" ) cast lead bullets or try to find oversize jacketed bullets.
I think I read something on this forum about 200gr. .314" jacketed bullets but I can't recall who made them.
PP.

 

[TimC]

Ross rifles here about 5 or 6 years ago were being deactivated, quite savagely as well, as no one wanted them. I have not restored mine infact I only cleaned it enough to shoot. I have seen one restored that must have cost a few £s. My rifle only cost me £245 when a reasonable no4 at the auctions could be had for anything up to £150. times have changed but as no one wanted them most have been butchered.

 

[jaguar]

Hi JT.
My Ross sporter definitely has a preference for certain loads. Your groups may tighten up signifigantly with a little trial & error work. Neck sizing your fireformed cases should help noticeably and don't look for accuracy at max loads for sure.( probably what factory ammo is near) Try for the load which gives about 3/4 to 7/8 of max suggested fps. Personal preference is for 174 gr rn 303 Cal (.312") Hornady's. Truncated ogive may possibly result in greater full dia body length reducing "tilt" while travelling down slightly oversized barrels (see PP above). I can't get near the results with 150 or 174 gr spitzer bullets,... as always "your mileage may vary".
Cheers
Jaguar