M305 LeverArms NIB

MartNutz

MartNutz

CGN Regular
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Québec
Good days

Recently bought a polytech M305 22'' from a member here on EE at a very very fair price if I look here and on the web.
Rifle is in sealed bag. Gentleman who sold it to me say he has 3, all in sealed.

I know one of the last batch SFRC sold had sight unaligned and I had concern about some issues it can have.
Tried to find out as many info as I can regarding these M305 sold by Lever but couldn't find anything... They don't even sell them anymore.

Now about 5 days since his posting and still, 2 left in his hand...
Is there any reason/known issues I should be aware of ?

Thanks
 
Almost all m305 built by norinco/polytech in the recent years had crooked front sight , which leads to slight misalign gas piston and oprod.

Its a 500$ gun. Start worrying about it when you can outshoot it.
 
If this is one of the Polytech M14s imported in the early 90's by Leverarms, you're good to go. They're the same ones that are highly sought after in the US.
 
MartNutz said:
I know one of the last batch SFRC sold had sight unaligned and I had concern about some issues it can have.
Tried to find out as many info as I can regarding these M305 sold by Lever but couldn't find anything... They don't even sell them anymore.

Is there any reason/known issues I should be aware of ?

Thanks
Click to expand...

Have a good look at the sticky posts at the top of this forum...they will tell you just about everything you need to know about the M305. The sight misalignment is a known problem and is easily detected. If your front sight _looks_ okay...it is okay. If there is a noticeable problem it can easily be fixed by rotating the barrel into proper position, although you will need either the help of a gunsmith, or the help of one of the M305 experts here who can set it to rights in a few minutes. Other known issues with these rifles are loose recoil spring guides and bad rear sights...again, easily fixed or replaced.
 
I was looking at this post your refering too. I have 2 m305s one is a norinco with norinco markings and says 308. The other i have is the exact same as you bought at its amazing. Groups are a few inches better and was perfecr right out the box. The one marked norinco ive had a bunch of problems with.
 
Get the headspace checked, it will be field reject range probably. Stick to shooting brass 7.62 military ammo and you will be fine.
 
Hitzy said:
Get the headspace checked, it will be field reject range probably. Stick to shooting brass 7.62 military ammo and you will be fine.
Click to expand...

This keeps coming up all the time. People ask "should I be using .308 or 7.62 head space gauges in my M1A/M14?".

The gauges are the same... Read that again: the gauges are the same. A SAAMI .308 1.634" gauge is exactly the same length as a NATO 7.62 mm 1.634" gauge. The difference in .308 and 7.62 is simply that the NATO spec allows longer head space than commercial .308 due to it's use in combat conditions. A minimum chamber with headspace of 1.631" is OK in the M305/M14. I know 1.630" is the actual minimum, but some NATO spec ammo, especially imported ammo, may not fully chamber in a minimum chamber. 1.631" seems to work OK and 1.638" should be considered the maximum although 1.640" is allowed by both SAAMI and NATO specs as the maximum for safe functioning. The NATO field reject gauge is 1.6455". Most of us are more concerned with accuracy than shooting in combat conditions. The best accuracy seems to come in chambers with headspace between 1.630" and 1.634", however some rifles may exhibit excellent accuracy with headspace of 1.638" so every rifle is different and has it's own "sweet spot". My best advice is that those whose rifles have headspace up to 1.638" have nothing to worry about and can safely shoot commercial or military ammo. For reloaders, don't full size your once fired cases to minimum size. Set the shoulder back a couple of thou and leave it at that. That will eliminate any anxiety of headspace.
 
Received the beast yesterday, new in sealed bag, left good comments, very happy !

1 thing though :

When I «drawn the operating rod» (rack the rifle) if I drawn the handle backward and up (->sky) a little the bolt block when reaching the receiver (like if the magazine bolt lock was ON).
If I push the handle down (toward the floor), the bolt release and close.

It's like there was some edge in the receiver hooking the bolt...
Is it normal ? Something I can gnetly file/polish into the receiver ?
 
RifleDude said:
This keeps coming up all the time. People ask "should I be using .308 or 7.62 head space gauges in my M1A/M14?".

The gauges are the same... Read that again: the gauges are the same. A SAAMI .308 1.634" gauge is exactly the same length as a NATO 7.62 mm 1.634" gauge. The difference in .308 and 7.62 is simply that the NATO spec allows longer head space than commercial .308 due to it's use in combat conditions. A minimum chamber with headspace of 1.631" is OK in the M305/M14. I know 1.630" is the actual minimum, but some NATO spec ammo, especially imported ammo, may not fully chamber in a minimum chamber. 1.631" seems to work OK and 1.638" should be considered the maximum although 1.640" is allowed by both SAAMI and NATO specs as the maximum for safe functioning. The NATO field reject gauge is 1.6455". Most of us are more concerned with accuracy than shooting in combat conditions. The best accuracy seems to come in chambers with headspace between 1.630" and 1.634", however some rifles may exhibit excellent accuracy with headspace of 1.638" so every rifle is different and has it's own "sweet spot". My best advice is that those whose rifles have headspace up to 1.638" have nothing to worry about and can safely shoot commercial or military ammo. For reloaders, don't full size your once fired cases to minimum size. Set the shoulder back a couple of thou and leave it at that. That will eliminate any anxiety of headspace.
Click to expand...

If you check the Battle rifles forum, you will see fired brass measuring 12-18 thou over min spec on average, you could probably add a couple thou to that for spring back.
There are also quite a few threads where the cheap steel case Russian ammo has head separation in these guns.
While there might not be any difference in go and no go chamber specs, there is a difference between 308 and 7.62 Nato brass, the latter is thicker and harder and can handle a good stretch. IVI is great brass to reload for these guns, there is also lots of surplus Hirtenberger available.
 
MartNutz said:
Received the beast yesterday, new in sealed bag, left good comments, very happy !

1 thing though :

When I «drawn the operating rod» (rack the rifle) if I drawn the handle backward and up (->sky) a little the bolt block when reaching the receiver (like if the magazine bolt lock was ON).
If I push the handle down (toward the floor), the bolt release and close.

It's like there was some edge in the receiver hooking the bolt...
Is it normal ? Something I can gnetly file/polish into the receiver ?
Click to expand...

You may be feeling the operating rod (charging handle) moving into the diassembly notch at the rear just under the rear sight.

Check out the resources on m14.ca website. Lots of archived info there
 
MartNutz said:
Received the beast yesterday, new in sealed bag, left good comments, very happy !

1 thing though :

When I «drawn the operating rod» (rack the rifle) if I drawn the handle backward and up (->sky) a little the bolt block when reaching the receiver (like if the magazine bolt lock was ON).
If I push the handle down (toward the floor), the bolt release and close.

It's like there was some edge in the receiver hooking the bolt...
Is it normal ? Something I can gnetly file/polish into the receiver ?
Click to expand...

Congrats and post one or more pictures for us. Proper operating procedure is to rack the operating rod straight back then just let it fly to chamber a round. Do not ease the op rod forward gently! Try this and see what happens. There may be a rough spot on the operating rod, a lot of Polytechs/Norincos get better after a few hundred firings. First thing though is to take the rifle apart and do a thorough cleaning and greasing of the moving parts. Check out the stickies on this forum. All part of the fun.
 
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