The slide problems you have heard about happened with U.S. contract, and some civilian, pistols during the mid 80’s.
A U.S. factory making Beretta frames was established, as per the U.S defense contract, but had not been set up to make the slides yet. Thus, the slides for early M9 pistols were being made in Italy.
Some of these slides had failures causing the slide to crack and hit the operator, sometimes resulting in injury. Since then all Beretta 92&96 pistols have been redesigned with an additional “slide stop” – even if the frame cracks it will not strike the user.
The bad lot of slides was traced back to the factory in Italy and their use of inferior alloys. This was corrected; M9 and 92 model pistols were retrofitted. When production of the Beretta slides began in the U.S. the slides coming of the line were tested and proven safe.
In total there were 14 reported slide failures, all of them with the Italian manufactured slides (I think).
Chances are; even if your slide is marked; “Made in Italy” and is of 80’s vintage, it would have both the slide-stop and the proper alloying procedure to ensure safety.
If your Beretta slide is marked Accokeek, Maryland your definatly fine, if it’s marked “Made in Italy” your probably still fine.
Berettas are good guns but I would shy away from purchasing the Stainless (INOX). I have seen the Inox version fail on the range I use to work at. The failure was not catastrophic but resulted in the slide release lever being replaced (not sure how many times). That being said; I own an Inox Brigadier and love to look at it, and shoot it.
However, I will never release the slide using the “slide release” on my Inox but will grasp the slide, pull it back and release. This will likely save my slide release.
To ensure that the pistol is in good working order (IMHO):
1. Disassemble the pistol; examine the frame, slide, and locking block for cracking.
2. #### the pistol (unloaded of course) and then attempt to push the hammer down with a reasonable amount of force, Use the safety to de-#### the pistol.
3. Examine the pistol for frame to slide play.
4. With the hammer in the forward position, the slide locked back, and the safety off (fire position), insert a dummy or spent casing into the chamber and then release the slide; the hammer should not follow the slide down.
5. With the hammer down and the safety off (fire position) pull the trigger slightly, in double action, half way to the rear and then release (before the hammer would fall) the hammer should wrest at the half-#### position.
6. Reset the hammer in the forward position by thumbing it back and then use the safety to de-#### the pistol.
7. With the safety on (Safe mode), pull the trigger to the rear. The hammer should not move and the firing pin interrupter (just forward of the rear sight) should protrude.
8. This step is probably unnecessary but is rather fun. Drop a pencil down the barrel of the unloaded gun pointing directly at the ceiling; pull the trigger in double action and single action. In both instances the pencil should fly a meter or two into the air. (Don’t try this at home kiddies and have all proper safety equipment; protective glasses, helmet, bullet proof vest, gloves, ear muffs, condom, and jock strap.

- on an approved range!
Jeff