Whats up CGN, this goes out to all the tinkerers (without milling machines) out there who have a beautiful Swedish Mauser that they love to use but can't ever seem to get the hold under just right.
I dont know if this has been done before but i have come up with a way to mount LER optics of the mauser without any permanent modifications (can be returned to factory in 5mins). I know they dont offer any commercially so i took it upon myself to make one.
Just a disclaimer, the measurements i give were for my rifle, yours may be slightly different. measure once, cut twice...
You will need
1. A mosin nagant scout mount, the type that fits in the rear sigh base. I used the long one from NcStar, cost less than $20
2. A electric drill and a 7/64th drill bit.
3. Files, and to save time use a power tool with abrasive discs (i used an angle grinder)
4. mastic epoxy. i used jb weld. comes in a clear tube, and it has be consistency of modelling clay
5. calipers (measure down to thousandths of an inch
6. Paint
7. 5/16th nut and bolt
8. 5/8th drill bit
9. 3/8th (or whatever you have on hand that will clear the 5/16th bolt, should be 0.33")
heres what i did:
1. Grind 0.035" of the push pin hole so that it fits in between the ears of the mauser (mauser is more narrow that mosin) try to get the TIGHTEST fit possible
2. enlarge the push pin whole with a 7/64th drill bit, so that it can receive the push pin. Try to get the TIGHTEST fit possible.
3. Thin the base the the mount, under the push pin hole by 0.065" from the receiver edge towards the push pin hole for 0.865"
4. Cut down the front and back to a desired length,
5. Thin the receiver side back rail so that it clears the hand guard.Thin to a max (from highest point of pic rail to bottom) 0.240" for 0.850" towards the muzzle.
6. Take the 5/16th nut and grind/file a lip in the bottom. on two parallel sides. Use the rear sight spring to measurements, it will be very thin.
7. push the nut as far back into the rear sight spring pocket until it reaches the back. Line it up, mark it, and drill a hole for the bolt through the sight.
8. use the 5/8th drill bit to countersink the 5/16th nut into the sight base.
9. assemble it, mount a scope, and boresight it for elevation. use the sights allen screws to lift up, use the 5/16th bolt to push down. If you did a good job in step 1 and 2, the windage should be within the scopes range of adjustment. otherwise file it down so its level. if you are bad with a file. but extra ncstar mounts in case to remove to much material.
10. roll up a thin amount of mastic epoxy and place it in between the scout base and rear sight pocket. not sure if this is necessary, but i did it for peace of mind to ensure the windage doesnt shift on me.
11. Zero and Range test
I got mine to hold zero, and group at 2" @ 100m. Not bad for 30 and a few hours. its nice to give one of my finest rifles a purpose.
I know i know, this thread is useless without pics..... i took them, and will post them when someone tells me how (its not working...........).
Hope this helps any other frustrated diehard swedish mauser owners.
.
.
.
LONG LIVE THE M96
I dont know if this has been done before but i have come up with a way to mount LER optics of the mauser without any permanent modifications (can be returned to factory in 5mins). I know they dont offer any commercially so i took it upon myself to make one.
Just a disclaimer, the measurements i give were for my rifle, yours may be slightly different. measure once, cut twice...
You will need
1. A mosin nagant scout mount, the type that fits in the rear sigh base. I used the long one from NcStar, cost less than $20
2. A electric drill and a 7/64th drill bit.
3. Files, and to save time use a power tool with abrasive discs (i used an angle grinder)
4. mastic epoxy. i used jb weld. comes in a clear tube, and it has be consistency of modelling clay
5. calipers (measure down to thousandths of an inch
6. Paint
7. 5/16th nut and bolt
8. 5/8th drill bit
9. 3/8th (or whatever you have on hand that will clear the 5/16th bolt, should be 0.33")
heres what i did:
1. Grind 0.035" of the push pin hole so that it fits in between the ears of the mauser (mauser is more narrow that mosin) try to get the TIGHTEST fit possible
2. enlarge the push pin whole with a 7/64th drill bit, so that it can receive the push pin. Try to get the TIGHTEST fit possible.
3. Thin the base the the mount, under the push pin hole by 0.065" from the receiver edge towards the push pin hole for 0.865"
4. Cut down the front and back to a desired length,
5. Thin the receiver side back rail so that it clears the hand guard.Thin to a max (from highest point of pic rail to bottom) 0.240" for 0.850" towards the muzzle.
6. Take the 5/16th nut and grind/file a lip in the bottom. on two parallel sides. Use the rear sight spring to measurements, it will be very thin.
7. push the nut as far back into the rear sight spring pocket until it reaches the back. Line it up, mark it, and drill a hole for the bolt through the sight.
8. use the 5/8th drill bit to countersink the 5/16th nut into the sight base.
9. assemble it, mount a scope, and boresight it for elevation. use the sights allen screws to lift up, use the 5/16th bolt to push down. If you did a good job in step 1 and 2, the windage should be within the scopes range of adjustment. otherwise file it down so its level. if you are bad with a file. but extra ncstar mounts in case to remove to much material.
10. roll up a thin amount of mastic epoxy and place it in between the scout base and rear sight pocket. not sure if this is necessary, but i did it for peace of mind to ensure the windage doesnt shift on me.
11. Zero and Range test
I got mine to hold zero, and group at 2" @ 100m. Not bad for 30 and a few hours. its nice to give one of my finest rifles a purpose.
I know i know, this thread is useless without pics..... i took them, and will post them when someone tells me how (its not working...........).
Hope this helps any other frustrated diehard swedish mauser owners.
.
.
.
LONG LIVE THE M96
