M96 swedish mauser trigger/safety issues

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goggles2

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I recently purchased a nice looking sporterized M96 from tradex and only recently got out to the range with it

When i recieved i function tested it and everything seemed good took apart to clean (didnt muck with trigger or strip bolt) function tested again ok

At the range managed to fire 6 shots without issues but then the rifle started firing when the safety was released intermittantly was fine dry fired and for the next shot but the following shot it would fire on releasing safety again.

Put the rifle aside for rest of day dissassembled when home everything looks fine but now fires everytime safety is released unless rear action screw is backed off slightly then it seems fine

This rifle is heavily modified has modded bolt shroud and cocking piece with side safety and an unknown adjustable trigger (with at least 3 adjustment screws?)

Any help would be appreciated im no gunsmith by any means

thanks

will attach pics asap
 
Bubba has a cousin in Sweden named Sven, and he's very busy too.
Jokes aside, probably sear engagement on the adjustable trigger. Mark it with a Sharpie and see if you can tell how much engagement.
Also, strangely enough sometimes flipping the firing pin over makes a difference in m96's. Did you disassemble the bolt when you cleaned it?
How tight were the bedding screws when you took the stock off? If it was super tight, you could have been getting more sear engagement when you first got it.
Try alternately tightening the back or front screw first and see if that makes a difference.
 
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That's cool how the shroud and cocking piece are angled like that, it actually looks good. The factory safety is gone obviously.
How much of the sear is sticking up into the receiver?
I have a Schultz & Larsen adjustable trigger, but it looks different than yours, can't help with which screw does what.
 
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Is there a setscrew under the nose of the trigger? Make sure it's snugged down, it keeps the trigger from rocking.
Best handled by a gunsmith where you're getting into accidental and misfires.
 
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there appears to be a set screw on the muzzle end of the trigger group that pushes up toward the reciever assuming thats the one

sear seems in good shape protruding fairly far up into reciever dont really have a way to measure precisely
 
If i put a fair amount torque (too much most likely i dont have a torque wrench that reads low enough) on the rear screw it will protrude enough to interfere with that bolt if i back it off a bit (still "snug") it seems to function fine

almost seems like rear screw is a thread too long or was way overtorqued at some point? 60-65 in lbs for these correct? (my wrench only goes as low as 90 in lbs so going by feel)
 
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Been assembly/ disassembling seems to work or not based on slight changes in how the action sits in the stock or in what order and how much torque is applied to action screws
 
Ya you're figuring it out. The cocking piece is getting held up high above the sear nose by overtightening. A stock pillar should solve it, or shim the bottom metal a bit proud to take it up on the bottom.
 
Folks today are too concerned with torque specs. The torque on a fastener is given to provide an engineered amount of stretch so it will not come loose or break. This generally does not apply to action screws. Here the limiting factor is the compression of the stock material. Your Mauser may have a metal sleeve in the rear screw hole. This is not a pillar. It was to limit the amount of damage Sven and Ole can do by over tightening the screw. There is very little area for the rear tang on a Mauser and it is easily crushed. Best to just tighten with feel and common sense. It sounds like your stock may be crushed in the tang area. You could make up some card shims and give it a try.
 
When you think you are done "torquing" the action screws (and I agree with Post #15, by the way), you will want to get a feeler or mirror into mag area and ensure that there is clearance between top of magazine box and bottom face of the action - they should NOT be tight together. I do not know exact spec number, but a couple or three thickness of sheet of paper, say 0.008" to 0.010" seems about correct. Left and right side - all the way from front to rear. Typically, the front end action screw is within essentially a hard stop "pillar" - the column on the trigger guard nose receives the stud from the recoil lug and are typically solid - if wood has shrunk, so that front end wood not tight, then shimming required. Bottom of action and bottom line of the mauser trigger guard should be dead straight - poor or improper stock bedding can result in the rear end of action getting bent down or the rear end of trigger guard loop getting bent up. Each was meant to be straight - recoil lug on action tight against its abutment, and that is to be the only place on the action that transfers recoil to the wood stock - not rear end of tang, not shoulders at rear bridge, not action screws. Typically, the dead centre bore line is the depth the barrel and action should be sitting in the stock - if high or low, or tipped front to back, then good indication that action is not bedded properly - either originally, due to wood shrinkage, or due to Sven's handi-work.
 
Glass bedding a mauser receiver, properly, is almost always an improvement. Note that none of the millions of German or Swedish military mausers were "glass bedded" - was accomplished by fitting the wood, to be "good enough". However, glass bedding not done properly is worse than a waste of time - bent or twisted receivers, bent trigger guards, magazine boxes "glued" into the stock, magazine boxes becoming part of the recoil transfer system, etc.
 
I agree that it should be bedded properly. Tightening the rear guard screw should not flex the action and I believe that flex is causing your problem.
 
Rattled off 18 rounds at the range today with the rear action screw slightly loose no issues accuracy probably suffered but no safety issues

will probably shim the rear between tang and stock for now and do a bed job later for a more permnant fix
 
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