Made an oops with my 9mm FCD

jawsman

jawsman

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Well I learnt a very good lesson this morning.

Just opened up my new Lee 9mm dies, and started playing with them to learn about how they work, and how they should be setup on my single stage press.

Sized and de-primed a few just to play with.

Then I went and pulled out the Lee Bulge Buster kit and setup to try and use it for the 9mm brass I re-sized.

Installed the FCD, the top piece, brass catcher, and extended case holder.

I went and tried to push through my first piece of brass, and oh oh, it got stuck. maybe if I push harder it will just go through. NOPE! No it's really stuck.

Go back and read the fine print, to see that I should NEVER have put the 9mm brass into the bulge buster in the first place!

So I go and get a punch and a hammer. Gingerly taps at first. NOTHING. Flip the die around in the press and try from the other side. It finally works, but the punch didn't go straight in and kissed the side as I pushed it through.

Now I have the top 2 teeth in the top of the die where the top of the FCD screws in are pooched. I just ruined the die!

Anyone know where I can get a replacememt 9mm FCD and not be raped over price and/or shipping!

Lesson learned this morning for the novice reloader? Read the freakin fine print before you start!
 
What is the Bulge Buster Kit for? I have never used anything other than a de-priming/resizing die in my Lee single stage press and with great results.
But, I am always interested in new gadgets though!
 
Look up the bulge buster kit on Lee's website.

Basically it's Lee's version of Lymans Brass Rx kit.

It's meant to completely full size the case right down to rim. A full length re-sizer cannot do this.

When you have high pressure rounds like 10mm and .40 S/W, they can slightly bulge out the very bottom of the case, causing chambering issue's.

With the bulge buster kit, this is a thing of the past.

Works great, when you read the instructions! LOL
 
I've never had problems with my ammo just using the regular 3 die set on .32acp, .380, 9mm, or .40S&W. I had a look at Lee's site and don't think I'll get that particular item just yet. But thanks for sharing and Nr 1 with getting Lee stuff from Higgingson's Powders.
 
If you are shooting lead bullets don't use the FCD. All it does is swage down your lead bullet which should be at least 1/1000 or .356 to prevent gas cutting. The FCD die makes your bullets look pretty but doesn't do much for accuracy or leading in the barrel. The light buldge you get when loading lead bullets is perfectly normal and won't have any affect on how the cartridge loads or chambers in your guns.

Take Care

Bob
 
Thanks for the advice. Normally (and for other calibers) I would agree with you Canuck44. Reloaded ammo I have used in all my other calibers have worked just fine without a factory crimp.

The problem I have with my 9mm, is that it does not seem to feed well with ammo that is not properly crimped. It tends to jam on the feed ramp, and the I've had bullets push back int eh case. It's the one failing I have with my norc NP-28.

As I learn to load for my 9mm, I'm insisting on using the FCD for the pistol it is being solely used in.

Something I'm wondering though. Your advice about lead bullets. Does that also apply to plated bullets? I'm planning on running a butt load of Berry's bullets through it, after I get finished with the 100gr speer's I have.

Thanks
 
jawsman said:
Thanks for the advice. Normally (and for other calibers) I would agree with you Canuck44. Reloaded ammo I have used in all my other calibers have worked just fine without a factory crimp.

The problem I have with my 9mm, is that it does not seem to feed well with ammo that is not properly crimped. It tends to jam on the feed ramp, and the I've had bullets push back int eh case. It's the one failing I have with my norc NP-28.

As I learn to load for my 9mm, I'm insisting on using the FCD for the pistol it is being solely used in.

Something I'm wondering though. Your advice about lead bullets. Does that also apply to plated bullets? I'm planning on running a butt load of Berry's bullets through it, after I get finished with the 100gr speer's I have.

Thanks
Click to expand...

Use a regular crimping die. What you want to do is just remove the belling so you end up with a straight case. What the FCD does in pistol ammo is to size down the entire case. The effect is to swage down the bullet. The reduction in diameter has to be applied somwhere and it is the bullet that is sized down. If after loading you see a slight bulge in the case and you apply the FCD to eliminate it you will have effectively reduced the size of the plated bullet. The plated bullets I have used are for the most part .3545 in diameter and if you size them down further you might as well load rocks as far as accuracy is concerned. Your bore will be ,355 if you have a good one and .356 or even .357 with a bad one. I need not tell you how a .3545 or less will perform.

Berry makes a good bullet. I have never heard anything derogatory. Assuming their diameter is .355 or slightly less any swaging down will effect accuracy.

Your feeding problem likely is caused by weak mag springs and you might want to check those out as a source of your misfeeds. That and the OAL length you are loading your cartridges. In short the slight bulge you are seeing in your cartridges is not likely the cause of your problems.

Take one of your cartridges after crimping as suggested above and take your barrel out of your gun. Drop in the cartridge. If it falls in without effort then your problems with misfeeds lies elsewhhere.

I have posted this before but here is the way to determine the OAL for any bullet for any pistol.

1. Measure the length of the bullet
2. Drop the bullet into the chamber of your barrel with the barrel out of the gun.
3. Measure from the base of the bullet to the top of the barrel hood where a cartridge would normalllay flush with the barrel hood.
4. Add the two mesurements and deduct 2 - 3 thousandths of an inch.

That will be the max OAL for the cartridge using that particular bullet. You want to deduct the couple of thousandths to account for any variations your press may cause. Final check is to see the cartridge of that length will load in your mags. I have never found a bullet combo that didn't.

When you crimp as I suggest a final check is to run your finger over the case mouth. If you cannot feel a ridge then you have accimplished what you want ie. a smooth flat case.

Remember the bullet in the 9MM case is held tight by friction not by a roll crimp.

Reloading procedures for 9MM is no different then loading for .40cal, .45acp or any other pistol cartridge.

Take Care

Bob
 
jawsman said:
Thanks for the advice. Normally (and for other calibers) I would agree with you Canuck44. Reloaded ammo I have used in all my other calibers have worked just fine without a factory crimp.

The problem I have with my 9mm, is that it does not seem to feed well with ammo that is not properly crimped. It tends to jam on the feed ramp, and the I've had bullets push back int eh case. It's the one failing I have with my norc NP-28.

As I learn to load for my 9mm, I'm insisting on using the FCD for the pistol it is being solely used in.

Something I'm wondering though. Your advice about lead bullets. Does that also apply to plated bullets? I'm planning on running a butt load of Berry's bullets through it, after I get finished with the 100gr speer's I have.

Thanks
Click to expand...

All you need to do is polish up the feed ramp and you will no longer need the FCD.

Cheers!
 
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