Mag rivet question
- Thread starter Paul_M
- Start date
Any type of handheld riveter would work they are usually just a 1/8th diameter aluminum rivet, probably 1/2"- 3/4" long.
Also, dont use stainless steel rivets, they are much stronger and might crack the plastic mags. Stick with aluminum since it is weaker and easily popped with a hand riveter.
Also, dont use stainless steel rivets, they are much stronger and might crack the plastic mags. Stick with aluminum since it is weaker and easily popped with a hand riveter.
Buy 1/8" countersunk 1/8" rivets (available at Canadian Tire for about $7/100). If the hole has already been drilled in the mag (should have been 
) counter sink the hole just deep enough so the rivet head sits flush with the mag surface.
The biggest problem with riveting mags is that the dome heads on the rivets sit up high enough that they prevent the mag from going into the mag well so you have to grind them down which is a pain and time consuming not to mention you end up grinding the mag as well.
As for stainless steel rivets cracking the mag, if they can drive a truck over a synthetic mag and not damage it there's not much chance the little extra force to seat a stainless rivet instead of an aluminum one will damage the mag. I've literally done dozens of different brands of synthetic mags (PMags, etc.) and never seen one damaged yet by a stainless rivet. BTW, I forget the exact length of the CTC rivets but they are the ideal length (maybe about 1/4"). 1/2"-3/4" are WAY too long to use as they will stick far enough in to the mag to interfere with the spring.
) counter sink the hole just deep enough so the rivet head sits flush with the mag surface.The biggest problem with riveting mags is that the dome heads on the rivets sit up high enough that they prevent the mag from going into the mag well so you have to grind them down which is a pain and time consuming not to mention you end up grinding the mag as well.
As for stainless steel rivets cracking the mag, if they can drive a truck over a synthetic mag and not damage it there's not much chance the little extra force to seat a stainless rivet instead of an aluminum one will damage the mag. I've literally done dozens of different brands of synthetic mags (PMags, etc.) and never seen one damaged yet by a stainless rivet. BTW, I forget the exact length of the CTC rivets but they are the ideal length (maybe about 1/4"). 1/2"-3/4" are WAY too long to use as they will stick far enough in to the mag to interfere with the spring.
I have seen aluminum rivets on PMAG’s that appear to be 0.125” with a head of 0.192”. Most 1/8” rivets have larger heads, over 1/4”.
As far as rivet material, use Aluminum as it is a softer grade than the magwell lower and should wear before you score the inner magwell. Gouging out the magwell with a stainless steel rivet seems to be less desirable than replacing a $0.05 to $0.10 rivet IMO.
As far as rivet material, use Aluminum as it is a softer grade than the magwell lower and should wear before you score the inner magwell. Gouging out the magwell with a stainless steel rivet seems to be less desirable than replacing a $0.05 to $0.10 rivet IMO.
That's why you use countersunk head rivets. Install them flush to the mag body and they don't touch the mag well. It's not rocket science.
