Hoping everyone can help me in the direction of a method to make my own checks. I'm going to be casting 30 calibre. Is there a die/ punch system to make my own checks. I've googled and found the freechex system. Are there others and has anyone here tried them and how were your results? I know checks are only $30-$35 per 1000. But if I can make something myself and not pay someone else for it that's what I like to do. I'm not opposed to aluminum check systems. I've heard the arguments in regards to aluminum checks so please save me the read. Lol Thanks for any help.
Make my own gas check?
- Thread starter ice2152
- Start date
I started on a checkmaker for .22 bullets.
Made a punch and die that go in the reloading press, cuts ice clean disks out of Al. flashing or Brass shim stock.
Did a quickie forming die and punch that I used in the lathe to try out some dimensions. It worked OK, and the checks seemed to seat pretty well.
All still packed away since I moved though.
If you have a lathe, you can make the stuff pretty easily. There is a set of plans available to download on castboolits, IIRC. If not, look at Pat Marlin's stuff, and the Freechex unit, and choose yer poison.
I set mine up to run in separate operations, other designs use a one step process.
Personally, I would dodge the pop can material and just buy some flashing at the hardware store. It is thicker than the pop cans and a buck worth makes you somewhere between hundreds and thousands of checks. Frugal is one thing, but being that cheap, I won't.
Brass shim stock (more $) is available in different thicknesses and is worth looking at too. Check out the shim stock at kbctools.com, or your favorite supplier.
Cheers
Trev
Made a punch and die that go in the reloading press, cuts ice clean disks out of Al. flashing or Brass shim stock.
Did a quickie forming die and punch that I used in the lathe to try out some dimensions. It worked OK, and the checks seemed to seat pretty well.
All still packed away since I moved though.
If you have a lathe, you can make the stuff pretty easily. There is a set of plans available to download on castboolits, IIRC. If not, look at Pat Marlin's stuff, and the Freechex unit, and choose yer poison.
I set mine up to run in separate operations, other designs use a one step process.
Personally, I would dodge the pop can material and just buy some flashing at the hardware store. It is thicker than the pop cans and a buck worth makes you somewhere between hundreds and thousands of checks. Frugal is one thing, but being that cheap, I won't.
Brass shim stock (more $) is available in different thicknesses and is worth looking at too. Check out the shim stock at kbctools.com, or your favorite supplier.
Cheers
Trev
http://www.freechex.net/
You could always find someone with one and see what it'll cost to get it copied (or do it yourself).
Checked this out and looks really good, compatible with my press to boot. Video of it in operation on my press looks like it might give my turret a real workout though to cut the disks. But easy peasy to form to a complete check. Think I'll wait to see if anyone else has other manufacturers of these before I pull the trigger on Pats dies. Thanks for the point in right direction.
TargetAcquired
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- S. Ontario
edit: gas checks are fun.
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Just a side note but how do the pop can gas checks remain stuck to the shank or are you relying on the pressure to keep it against the shank. We've all the dangers of light loads with semi jacketed bullets. The commercial checks are a lot thicker and actually crimp on.
Go on the castboolits site and read the reports there.
Does not seem more issues with pop can checks coming adrift than with regular ones, it seems to be more dependent upon the individual mold and shank size, plus the amount of sizing one. That was my read on it anyway.
Some of the guys report better results with double layers, or with the thicker cans like the aluminum Coors large size can, apparently.
I still don't think dealing with that thin a material is worth it, considering the price of aluminum flashing material, available by the foot at most hardware/building supply places.
Cheers
Trev
Does not seem more issues with pop can checks coming adrift than with regular ones, it seems to be more dependent upon the individual mold and shank size, plus the amount of sizing one. That was my read on it anyway.
Some of the guys report better results with double layers, or with the thicker cans like the aluminum Coors large size can, apparently.
I still don't think dealing with that thin a material is worth it, considering the price of aluminum flashing material, available by the foot at most hardware/building supply places.
Cheers
Trev
TargetAcquired
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- S. Ontario
Use the Sapporo beer cans. Dems is thick.
I, ve taken the freechex route. After some debate think it may be a better stystem for me. Think i ll be trying a few metal trials. But from most accounts roofing flash is the cheapest/sturdiest/thickness to go by. May try selling some on ee. Who knows.
The main reason I asked was even though they say don't do it some bullets seat deeper than the neck length on bottle neck cases, like say the 300 savage. If you use the lyman brand checks they are thin and fall with little effort. So beverage can ones aren't any thicker. As for doubling up, maybe on the straight wall cases. I'll keep getting the real deal from Larry.
I have been using a freechecks gascheck maker for a few years.
By using varying thicknes's of material, you can slightly adjust the shank fit of the gascheck.
Here in alberta, aluminum sheeting is plentiful in the oil patch and other industries. I use .014" sheet aluminum that is used to cover pipe and insulation. I was given 10 sheets of this material (brand new) by a contractor who had some left over from a contract. Thats enough for more than my lifetime of shooting.
Hope this information can help fellow shooters save some money, and source some additional suppliers of the required material.
I also use brass shim stock. Its available in many exact thicknes increments.
.001",.002",.003- etc.
I found that .010" brass makes a good check.
And .015" brass makes a very tight check.
The thicker shim stock material is harder to punch out, but works well.
Some bullet shanks may not accept the thicker shim materials.
By using varying thicknes's of material, you can slightly adjust the shank fit of the gascheck.
Here in alberta, aluminum sheeting is plentiful in the oil patch and other industries. I use .014" sheet aluminum that is used to cover pipe and insulation. I was given 10 sheets of this material (brand new) by a contractor who had some left over from a contract. Thats enough for more than my lifetime of shooting.
Hope this information can help fellow shooters save some money, and source some additional suppliers of the required material.
I also use brass shim stock. Its available in many exact thicknes increments.
.001",.002",.003- etc.
I found that .010" brass makes a good check.
And .015" brass makes a very tight check.
The thicker shim stock material is harder to punch out, but works well.
Some bullet shanks may not accept the thicker shim materials.
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This ^^^^^^^^
Indeed, aluminium oxide is very hard and abrasive...
Just recently there was a good thread on the CastBoolits website about this, but I can't find that particular thread. There is a thread on their Gas Checks forum called "Aluminum Oxide a Problem?" It was posted on April 6, 2013. It seems there are a lot of strong opinions on both sides of this debate.
