Making 32 rimfire

bgcameron

bgcameron

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Just wondering if anyone has tried making 32 rimfire cases using modified 32 colt cases and ramset blanks?


I haven't found any 32 colt cases until now. I managed to pick up a partial box of Dominion 32 short colt. I am wondering if they are worth modifying, or are they too collectible?

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Yessir I make .32 RF for my revolver; and I reform .32 S&W into .32 Long Colt (for a Stevens Favorite I converted).

The BEST tutorial on the net (IMHO) is on castboolits: h ttp://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?147224-reloadable-32-rimfire-brass/page1 It's a LONG thread but well worth the read. Remove the space in "h ttp" and paste...

There are a couple good basic threads here on CGN in this subforum but all that information is repeated and collated into that castboolit thread.

I'll add that while many folks report that a centered blank .22 will be set off in their converted .32 cases, the firing pins in both my revolver and (before the conversion) my Stevens were too narrow to catch the rims, so I offset my cases in my lathe. I actually use brass stock and either 5/16" tubing or say a .308 case mouth soldered on (per the Manual of Cartridge Conversions) to achieve that these days. In hindsight might be easier to extend the firing pin flat a bit on my revolver.... might still do that because it would sure speed up the case manufacturing process.

Another note to add, the .22 ramsets are a) readily available in the lowest power setting (unlike the .27s - lowest settings are listed, but I sure couldn't find them or even special order 'em); and b) are set off by the hammer strikes every time; the .27's I found in both my revolver and rifle, did not do so well and many tool a couple of strikes. YMMV every time... that's just my experience.
 
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infideleggwelder said:
You need to post some pics of your efforts. i`ve shied away from a few .32s due to difficulty getting ammo for them
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Sure, I'll take some photos later tonight. It is a time consuming process. A centered ramset would be easy - mind you extracting the fired case might be challenging. The advantage to turning a base is that I also extend the "chamber" for a ramset, so it doesn't have an opportunity to get locked in. I suppose on the other side though, a .22 acorn as a primer only would probably work very well - that I haven't tried.

Edit: I found some photos on my computer, posted 'em below along with the instructions I made for myself.
 
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I've also been looking at the possibility of reloading for .32 rimfire and, I know that there is a guy on the Xchange that sells all kinds of .32 rimfire so, the ammo is readily available, if you have a PAL to purchase it. However, I would need to reload my own since, I do not have, nor do I want, a PAL. One of the things that I didn't care for, in reloading for .32 rimfire is, when using the offset cases, you can't just push the rounds into the cylinder any old way. You need to make sure that the offset is positioned so that the hammer will catch as much of the .22 acorn as possible. If you don't, you will have a lot of misfires. It's not a huge difficulty but, it does add a complication that I'm not sure I'd like. You'd also have the same problem if you reworked brass for center fire and, as NCBB pointed out, you would need to modify the hammer in order to eliminate this issue, maybe not on all guns though, I don't know.
 
NaturalPath said:
I've also been looking at the possibility of reloading for .32 rimfire and, I know that there is a guy on the Xchange that sells all kinds of .32 rimfire so, the ammo is readily available, if you have a PAL to purchase it. However, I would need to reload my own since, I do not have, nor do I want, a PAL. One of the things that I didn't care for, in reloading for .32 rimfire is, when using the offset cases, you can't just push the rounds into the cylinder any old way. You need to make sure that the offset is positioned so that the hammer will catch as much of the .22 acorn as possible. If you don't, you will have a lot of misfires. It's not a huge difficulty but, it does add a complication that I'm not sure I'd like. You'd also have the same problem if you reworked brass for center fire and, as NCBB pointed out, you would need to modify the hammer in order to eliminate this issue, maybe not on all guns though, I don't know.
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Yes you are correct. It is a little annoying in a revolver.

I was looking on my computer (still at work) and lo and behold, found some photos I took a couple years ago:

This was one of my last attempts to get a .27 to work. The only .27's I could find - even under special order - were too hot, so I was having to open them up and dump the powder, use em as a primer only. I was frustrated because the precious .32 Short Colt cases often didn't last long, requiring a lot of thinning to get the .27 to "chamber", so I used some tubing and a bit of lathe work. However I found these were not ideal at retaining the bullet/ball and again, the .27's were frequently needing more than one hammer drop to set off:
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After trying the centered .22s with no success, as I say I ended up looking at offsetting them. After reading up on options, I ended up moving to a two piece case (taking the idea from the Manual of Cartridge Conversions). This is the tubing over the turned solid base:
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This is a case together (after some failed attempts, now I've kind of got it down to a "science"); if you look closely you can see the offset. It isn't much, just enough:
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(in the second photo you can see the remnants of one of my failed attempts, probably too much offset in that case).

I have a .22 chamber reamer BUT honestly a #1 drill bit works just as well for this purpose, and turn the rim recess with a tool.
 
These are my notes I follow in making these cases use at your own risk this is what I developed doing it (and again, read that castboolits thread I posted in Post #2 and decide for yourself how to approach this):

Step One: Set 3/8" diameter brass round stock Off-Center in lathe by .020" (so 0.040"). Use dial indicator to determine this offset. Note I started insetting them a little bit more because this can be too close to the edge of the case.

Step Two: Drill through completely the 3/8" Brass stock with a #1 Drill Bit. (Dull leading edges of bit for drilling brass first, leaving standard 118 degree drill point). WD40 seems the best lubricant.

Step Three: Ream a .22 LR Chamber into the brass so as to have .22 blank rim sitting flush. A #1 drill bit works without a chamber reamer. Cut recess with a tool

Step Four: Center brass stock in lathe

Step Five: Turn major diameter to 0.3680"

Step Six: Leaving the rim thickness, set forming tool on inside of that rim and turn down outside diameter to 0.315" for a length sufficient to accommodate the blank. You need to have it long enough

Step Seven: At the leftmost position turn down a short (0.12") section to 0.280". It shouldn't dig into the "chamber" but if it does that is OK because it will be sleeved (but if it does then try offsetting by slightly less than 0.020" next time).

Step Eight: Cut off the newly formed case head.

Step Nine: Cut a length of 5/16" brass tubing sufficient so that your entire empty case length (From face of head to case mouth) will be 0.920" (for a .32 Long Rimfire), leaving some extra to trim off. For heeled bullets this is too long but for round balls, its fine

Step Ten: Place rosin flux around stepped down portion of case head

Step Eleven: Place Case head on hot plate and place section of 5/16" tubing over case head, making sure it is square/straight.

Step Twelve: Place a ring of silver solder into case (I wrapped it around a #6 drill bit to get the right diameter).

Step Thirteen: Heat up the hot plate & use a small butane torch at the case head to heat it just enough that the solder flows into the case. Remove from heat and allow to air cool. Note: This is from the Manual of Cartridge Conversions and there is a risk of annealing the case head; definitely not intended for high pressure loads! Use at your own risk

Step Fourteen: Trim case length to 0.92" for a .32 Long Rimfire (Same process to make short but trim to 0.70"). I found that even my pocket revolver chambers the long case, because of the heeled bullets used in the original case (but see note in Step 15; this case is only intended for round balls).

Step Fifteen: Ream case mouth to accept a .32 caliber muzzleloader BALL. Note that the heeled bullets should not be used with the blank load, this is intended for round lead balls only.

Step Sixteen: Fix the case in milling vise with the offset .22 rim recess positioned at 12 o'clock; and mill a relief at the very top flush with the recess (only remove the outer rim). This is to accomodate the firing pin.

Step Seventeen: Polish the case as needed to clean off any solder.

You are done. Use only BROWN or WHITE .22 blanks no hotter! Also, as noted above, only use .32 caliber ROUND LEAD BALLS with this case I don't think it will propel a heeled bullet well and in any event the added pressure could separate the case.

Again, read that thread I posted in Post #2 above - You might come to some different approach or workaround that works as well or better.
 
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Tried making some .32RFs starting with W-W Short Colts. Unlike the Dominion cases in the first post, these have a slight relief groove cut at the front of the rim. There is a tendency for the blank's rim counterbore to break through, and the .32 rim to crack off.
To open .27 blanks to dump the powder, I press a pointed cone into the crimp, to open it enough to dump the powder.
 
tiriaq said:
Tried making some .32RFs starting with W-W Short Colts. Unlike the Dominion cases in the first post, these have a slight relief groove cut at the front of the rim. There is a tendency for the blank's rim counterbore to break through, and the .32 rim to crack off.
To open .27 blanks to dump the powder, I press a pointed cone into the crimp, to open it enough to dump the powder.
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Yes - a tedious job. I'll have a look at my Winchester cases tonight but I'll bet they also have that relief groove. I lost quite a few cases trying to make the .27's work. I did eventually, but like I say then I wasn't happy with their reliability.
 
Navy Arms had a run of .32RF made by CBC in Brazil some time ago. I do not understand why someone isn't having these made. There would be a market for just about all the vintage rimfire cartridges.
 
tiriaq said:
Navy Arms had a run of .32RF made by CBC in Brazil some time ago. I do not understand why someone isn't having these made. There would be a market for just about all the vintage rimfire cartridges.
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Agreed, there are a LOT of .25's and .32's out there. It's a shame. If they can invest money in a variety of new .17 RF chamberings... some of which already seem almost obsolete (17 HM2 or whatever, I'm no expert on it). To me you've got an existing market in the vintage guns without ammo... vs. taking what seems like a bigger risk on the latest & greatest take on a .17RF, in some cases introducing a new rifle with it... Must be a balance that could be struck there somewhere.
 
A few of us played with this in 2011 a year before that LONG and COMPLEX Castboolits thread: https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php/918240-Hc-collection?

There's worthwhile info in that link and other links within it. The pictures got lost to Photobucket, but I'll restore some here:

To summarize, 32 Cal Ramset Charges ("Hilti") work well with no need to be off-setted.

Making 32 Rimfire

You’ll need:

  • 27 Cal Ramset Powder Charge - "Green" has about 2.3 grs of powder, "Brown" has about 1.7 grs
  • Winchester 32 Short Colt Brass. It's a bit shorter than 32 Long Colt, but easy to find (you have to make 32 Long Colt from 32 S&W)
  • a 0.311-0.314" Round Ball (“0” Buck sized down works well) –will weigh about 48 grs
  • a 17/64" and a 21/64” drill. A lathe is the best way to drill the holes.

To apply this to a larger round like the 38 RF, you have to offset the holes so the the rim of the Ramset is against the edge of the brass. I'd make a jig to hold the brass off centre and use a 17/64" end mill to make the cut. (my next project).

The beauty of this setup is that the Ramset is both the primer and the powder charge, and you don't have to line up the round to align with the firing pin. The powder seems to be like Bullseye in Burn Rate (fast) and for my Remington #4 Rolling Block, "Green" contains a suitably mild charge for a 48 gr Round Ball. Brown 27 Cal charges are very difficult to find, and are required IMO if you go heavier than the 48 gr Round Ball. Firearms not as strong as the #4 would require caution using the Ramset charge - you might want to empty the powder and replace it will blackpowder, or a suitable smokeless charge.
I press the Ramset into place by squeezing it in using a vise - once in place, I do the same with the Round Ball, then put a dab of Alox on it.

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Mid-power "Green" costs about $20/100 from Home Depot.

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Drill a two step hole into the base of the 32 Short Colt Brass - a 17/64" all the way through the web, then a shallow 0.328" (21/64" drill), deep enough that the Ramset charge sits flush. Notice how the firing pin nicely strikes the edge of the Ramset.


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A shot of the two-step hole, and a fired Ramset Charge. The Aluminum Block has a 21/64" drill sized hole (I have since drilled a shallow hole the diameter of the rim, (to centre the cartridge over the hole). I use it to deprime using a metal rod and a small hammer.

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Yessir been down that path as well (I didn’t go into detail on it in my post) but I wasn’t happy with my .27 results. I did load many but (in my own opinion only) the .22 ramsets speed up production - and as I say, I personally found the .27s just didnt ignite like the .22s. I tried different brands but eventually quit on the .27s.

I fully expect some challenges are related to the specific guns people are using - some prefer different ammo than others.

As with everything in this business, folks will have different results and hey the fun is more in the journey than the destination!
 
I have made some as shown here in my youtube video. note the disclaimer, use the info at your own risk. also have a couple videos of me shooting it.
I used 22lr, a lot of which i have picked up off the range floor that were ejected because the round got bent etc. I also pour my own bullets for this that fit in the colt brass. my 32 bullets' heel are just slightly too wide to fit in the hc brass.

https://youtu.be/i6wJMxgGMHI
[youtube]i6wJMxgGMHI[/youtube]
 
Rather than to go the route of re-working brass, I am in the process of converting a Stevens Crackshot 32 calibre to a 22 short. I also have a Stevens Marksman 12, 25 calibre on the go to make a 22 LR. I have been considering changing it to 22 Magnum but more research is necessary.
 
Yes, it is indeed possible to make RF ammo but you have to willing to put in the work to make it work. Kits are available from France for a variety or RFs.
 
The other fix to shoot these RF guns is to convert them to .32 Colt CF . I know people who have done it , & they work fine.
This would be much easier & cheaper in the end , as long as you don't mind modifying the gun. This conversion may not be
possible in all gun models ?
 
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