Mannlicher 1888 brought back from the brink...

Claven2

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So I picked up this mannlicher from some guy on GP that was shortly thereafter banned (not because of this transaction). What arrived was, at first glance, a tomato stake. Mercifully it was cheap. Very cheap.

It was missing a bolt and safety. The safety screw was snapped off and rusted into the receiver. The stock was cracked at the wrist and barely hanging on. Bore was full of orange rust, and every surface looked like those nepalese guns IMA USA brought in 15+ years ago - covered in 100 years of grime and rust.

I like a challenge, so I have not given up on the gun.

I should have taken more and better photos of the rifle before I started work, but another thread here prompted me to take a few to share. By the time I took a photo of the thing, I already had the gun disassembled and quite a few parts soaking in evaporust (there was zero original finish left on this thing anyhow).

After a couple weeks soaking in Kroil, I could not get the front action screw out to separate the stock from receiver so I could address each separately. In the end, I had to mill the head off the screw in the mill and beat the rust-seized screw shaft out of the stock with hammer and punch to separate the barreled receiver from the stock. And my god was that rear sight assembly a bear to free up and get disassembled.

Here are a couple photos to give you an idea how rusty and dirty this thing was (the receiver bridge and front top receiver ring were already wire wheeled to see if there were any markings before I took this photo - it was even worse before:

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I'm not sure I've ever worked on a gun that started this rough before (and that includes Nepalese black powder muzzle stuffers!)

Here's the receiver cleaned up. Actually not that bad... maybe about what you would externally expect of something from RTI.

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Interestingly, the bore and chamber cleaned up WAY better than I expected. No significant pitting in the chamber, and the bore has strong (but dark) rifling. There are a few patches of rust crust I can't get out with brushes and naval jelly in the grooves, but I'll eventually put a few jacketed low pressure rounds through the gun when it's otherwise finished and that should shoot the last of it loose. I actually have hopes this thing might group somewhat OK eventually.

I imported a replacement bolt from a US e-bay seller last month (thanks Prophet River), and got the missing safety and a firing pin (the one in the replacement bolt had a broken off tip) from a CGN seller in the EE. A very lucky find.

Safety screws and action screws for these guns are made of unobtainium, so I made replacements based on photos of originals and pulling dimensions off the rifle. The safety screw was center drilled with a tiny carbine dental drill, then hollowed out in 5 thou increments with numbered drills. It's a 10-32NF thread if anyone else ever has to do this. I chased the receiver hole with a bottoming tap to clear the last of the old screw out. I didn't take pics of making this screw - sorry fellas. But I did remember to take some snaps of making the front action screw - essentially the same process. The front action screw is an off size with an unusual 26tpi thread. I had to cut it in the lathe.

Some pics for those that like machining photos.

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fresh off lathe:

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slot cut in mill (slitting saw) and then oil blackened like the originals were:

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and exposed part of the head aged to look more like the (lack of) finish on the rest of the rifle.

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If anyone's interested in seeing more, I can post other photos as we get closer to reassembly.
 
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Thanks for the thread, I for one am interested in watching this project unfold. It’s nice too see old things have new life breathed into them as well as seeing parts made/machined when no replacements can be found.
 
Oh yeah I still have one of those Nepalese Martini-Henry barreled receivers in a junk bin that I gave up on. Someone with an even worse one from USA was glad to buy all the parts from it.
 
I should say, I don’t intend to file out all the pitting, reblue it, etc like I would do an old clapped out Winchester.

I’m going to leave it functional and shootable but with a worn “I lived my life in Africa” vibe.

If anyone has a rearmost barrel band for one of these pls let me know. The one I have is too rough to do much with. I can use it for now but would like to source one in somewhat less pitted and cracked condition.
 
I remembered to take a photo of the shouldered and domed slotted safety screw I made and aged, including a few light peening dings on the slot to make it look original.

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And here are some photos of the stock repairs so far. The web between the mag well and trigger inlet was split, and the wrist was cracked from where the tang ends, forward to about the front of the magwell, so the top half of the wrist was lifted off the bottom half. It was an older crack that I could not get perfectly clean so titebond was not an option.

I did NOT photograph all this a couple weeks ago, but I'll try to describe what you are seeing. I pushed the crack apart as far as I could without breaking the stock in two (it was cracked badly, but not broken through). Because the crack near the tang ad the back seems dusty/dirty and a little oily, I opted for a heave CA-based epoxy glue. In this case, Gorilla Glue clear super glue gel. I used a very fine spatula knife to spread and force it into the crack as much as possible, then flexed the crack open and closed until it migrated down the length of the crack and oozed out everywhere.
Then I used thinly sliced pieces of duct tape to progressively apply pressure to force the crack closed. A lot of thin and long pieces of duct tape, stretched around the stock in tension will close almost any large crack if done right. You can actually no longer see the crack joint unless under a very bright light. Once dry the take was removed and the glue joints scraped. Any wood looking too fresh was tinted with Fiebings oil based lather dye in chocolate.

I then drilled two tight fitting dowel peg holes from the top and 2 from the bottom and tapped them in with a soft mallet, coated with titebond. You can only see these from one side, they are in blind holes. The joint strength is really all in the quality of the glue up, the pegs (maple in case anyone cares), are just a little insurance while the joints fully cure over the next few days.

My fingers are pointing to the small visible ends of the hardwood pegs.

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For the web in the stock inletting, I used runny CA superglue, clamped for 24 hours. Once dry, I drilled two angled holes from the trigger guard inlet, across the glued joint, exiting in the receiver inlet and tapped pegs in place with titebond.

The pegs are still in the white in these photos, but have been chiseled off and filed flush:

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Next I'm tacking some rotten chunks missing at the rear barrel band shoulder of the stock. I could have left this alone, it's actually just cosmetic, but I thought what the hell, I'm here anyway.

Before:

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squared up and bottoms of the inlets chiseled flat:

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Grain matched european walnut plugs test fitted. They have a reverse bevel so should never pop out, and should leave only very fine joint lines.

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And set in with slow drying epoxy mixed with sanding dust from the plugs. Did my best to match grain, so we'll see how it looks after it's dry and dressed flush to the existing stock contour.

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Here are the patches dressed flush and contoured:

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stained to match pretty well I think.

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Looks pretty good with band installed.

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The action all cleaned up and back together (also function tested):

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Top of action - definitely has that old war horse look.

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Rear volley sight freed up and working (you use the markings on the right side of the sight ramp with the volley sight):

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front volley sight about as straight as I could get it (it was really bend when I got the gun):

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All dressed up to go out for dinner:

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That might be about it until my 8x50R MANN dies come in from the states.
 
As an aside, these rifles cycle WAY smoother than an m95 or even the Swiss guns. Smooth like butter.

You need to cycle one to believe it.

That said, these rifles locking mechanism really is designed for the early semi-smokeless pressures.
 
As an aside, these rifles cycle WAY smoother than an m95 or even the Swiss guns. Smooth like butter.

You need to cycle one to believe it.

That said, these rifles locking mechanism really is designed for the early semi-smokeless pressures.
The Austrians actually preferred that action, it just couldn’t hold up to the pressures they wanted hence switching to the M95.

Likely my smoothest action rifle.
 
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