Manual of Arms: Kel-Tec Sub 2000?

Clobbersauras

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I picked up a Sub 2000 a little while ago and have been relatively impressed with it's lightweight and simplicity. I like that it takes Glock mags and pushes the little 9mm to near 357 magnum velocities.

But..........it's a non conventional design. The forearm is very thin, the charging handle is at the rear of the rifle behind the pistol grip, and the safety is a push button. I see a lot of guys on youtube who use all manner of foolishness to operate the rifle.

Below are my opinions on how to properly operate the rifle:

I use a method of operating the rifle that is similar to accepted manual of arms for other rifles, and works around the idiosyncrasies of the Sub 2000. I'm not an expert and don't pretend to be. If you want to debate my methods, I encourage it.

1) I charge the rifle with my support (non-firing hand). The charging handle on the Sub 2000 is a little stiff, and I think a lot of shooters use their firing hand or dominant hand to charge it just because it's a little easier. It's not the best way, especially if you subscribe to the theory that you should always have a hand on fire control. I push forward on the pistol grip with my right (fire control hand) and pull rearward on the charging handle with my support hand. That gives enough power to properly and comfortably charge the rifle while leaving your hand on fire control. You have to ensure your finger is OUT of the trigger guard during this process (which it should be anyway). When you push forward with your dominant hand you will reflexively squeeze harder on the grip and if your trigger finger is inside the guard you run the risk of having a ND.

2) I square my shoulders to the target. I see a lot of guys using a shot-gunners stance with the Sub 2000 and a lot of those guys complain that the Sub 2000 is a little short in length of pull. Kel- Tec actually makes a but pad extension for the rifle because of this. However, if you square your sshoulders it eliminates this problem. I also find this stance helps to better control recoil , YMMV.

3) I hold the rifle with my support hand as far out on the hand-guard as possible. The 9mm Sub 2000 recoil is a little stiffer than expected and to shoot faster and more accurately it's to your advantage to actively try to control recoil rather than just be a participant in the process. Putting your hand far out on the hand-guard gives you more leverage and allows you to control the muzzle better. This is where the small hand-guard on the Sub 2000 is an advantage and you can really get a good grip on the rifle.

4) Push Button Safety. I find the safety easy to disengage with my thumb, but I have to sweep my fingers up quite a bit to activate it. You will have to practice the method that works best for you, just remember to use the safety! I see lots of Youtube video's where the safety is an afterthought.

5) Speed reloads. The Sub 2000 is very light and it's easy to control with one hand. Mags drop free which is a huge plus. When I get the inevitable "click" at the end of a mag I do a quick chamber check by rotating the rifle slightly to the right to make sure there is no visible stoppage. This is critical as the bolt on the Sub 2000 doesn't lock back on an empty mag so there is no way of knowing what is going on unless you take a quick look. If there is no stoppage I assume the click just meant an empty chamber. I then perform a standard reload and go about my procedure for charging the rifle.

I can do a speed reload with the Sub 2000 just a little slower than I can with an AR (I'm not that fast), and faster than I can with a VZ58. Practice makes perfect and I still have lots to work on, but as you can see by the video below, a reload with the Sub 2000 can be done quite quickly.

6) Sling. I haven't figured this out yet. I'm still working on an option that doesn't involve using the factory sling. I'm a single point fan:stirthepot2:, so if you've got a solution, let me know.

Hope this helps! Cheers!

[Youtube]-XBP5IRxR7A[/Youtube]
 
You're right on with regards to using your support hand to charge the rifle. Its easier done with the rifle mounted as well. As for reloads and malfunction drills I ran mine a little differently.

With no last round hold open, a click gets a tap rack immediate action. No looking at the chamber for several reasons. One, it doesn't work in the dark. Two, if there is a type one or type two stoppage the fix is TAP RACK which you already did when it failed to fire. Lastly if its a type three malfunction you may feel the bolt not go into battery and if you don't feel it you'll soon find out the problem is not an empty mag when you experience a dead trigger. So, if you get a click and you TAP RACK and it clicks again, its time for a fresh magazine. If you TAP RACK and it goes bang, you solved one of two problems(failure to fire/bad round or unseated magazine) If you TAP RACK and you get a dead trigger or a bolt that doesn't go into battery, its time to UNLOAD RELOAD. Works in the dark without looking at the action and keeps things simple. If you experience a dead trigger while firing then a TAP RACK is the go to for starters, if that doesn't fix the dead trigger its time to UNLOAD RELOAD.

TDC
 
You're right on with regards to using your support hand to charge the rifle. Its easier done with the rifle mounted as well. As for reloads and malfunction drills I ran mine a little differently.

With no last round hold open, a click gets a tap rack immediate action. No looking at the chamber for several reasons. One, it doesn't work in the dark. Two, if there is a type one or type two stoppage the fix is TAP RACK which you already did when it failed to fire. Lastly if its a type three malfunction you may feel the bolt not go into battery and if you don't feel it you'll soon find out the problem is not an empty mag when you experience a dead trigger. So, if you get a click and you TAP RACK and it clicks again, its time for a fresh magazine. If you TAP RACK and it goes bang, you solved one of two problems(failure to fire/bad round or unseated magazine) If you TAP RACK and you get a dead trigger or a bolt that doesn't go into battery, its time to UNLOAD RELOAD. Works in the dark without looking at the action and keeps things simple. If you experience a dead trigger while firing then a TAP RACK is the go to for starters, if that doesn't fix the dead trigger its time to UNLOAD RELOAD.

TDC

Good points TDC, as usual. How much longer does it take you to do a TAP RACK reload? Did you time it?
 
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