Marlin 1894 - 44 Rem Mag; My impression.

nitro-express

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I am considering selling my Marlin 1894 in 44 Rem Mag. So while searching for others for sale, looking for some idea what the market value for a used one was, I saw a fair number of comments. Most were curious about quality, some wanted a review.

I have owned my 1894 44 Magnum/Special for about a year now. I bought it for CAS (Cowboy Action Shooting). My main rifle is an Uberti '66 Trapper in 38 Special. I believe in the old racing adage, you need a "Pair and a spare". My back-ups are a '92 rifle in 44-40, it's 24" barrel is a bit of a disadvantage when we shoot from the horse. (a wooden prop, not a real horse, "that would be cruel"). Pulling that last 4 inches out of the scabbard requires a slight awkward movement. In a pinch I can use my son's '92 in 44 Mag. When I saw the 1894 on sale at Cabelas, I had to have it.

First I'll address the fit and finish. I have wanted to buy one of these Marlins for a few years now. Had one in my hands about 20 years ago, but the fit and finish really disappointed me. I like the bolt to be a decent fit, no overly proud metal, and a no unsymmetrical glaring gaps. The new production Marlin I bought has decent fit. The bolt fits fairly nicely. Typical of today, the lumber is not real nice, mine has a somewhat two tone buttstock, noticeable in the wrist area. Not a biggy when it come to a CAS firearm. CAS guns get used, they do not stay shinny forever. One of my peeves is the laser burnt checkering, IMO just one step above the stamped checkered look. About 6 hours with the checkering tools cleaned that up. My hands and eyes are not young anymore, but I'd rate the checkering as "Bunkhouse good" now.

How does it shoot? Unfortunately the answer to that gets a bit involved. I want it for CAS, so for me, to be a good shooter it has to shoot a lead bullet at app 1000 fps. certainly no more than 1400 fps. Finding a load that would shoot well was a challenge. I'm not new to 44 mag, I've loaded and shot several thousand rounds of 44 mag for varied selection of long and short guns. I've also dabbled in the world of 44-40. My thinking was that finding a load would be pretty easy, but I was mistaken. After several days of frustration, and blurred eyesight, I mounted a scope on the beast, to give my eyes a break. I put a 10X Bushnell Elite 3200 on it, a cowboy sniper rifle.

What should have been a simple exercise of mounting a scope and sighting in got a bit more involved. 44 Magnum cowboy loads are similar to 44-40 loads, slow and rainbow trajectory being the main attributes. I ended up putting a shim under one end of the rail to help with sighting in. The barrel looks to be installed correctly, in other words a quick look down the barrel with the bolt open, and no shells in the chamber or magazine, the firing pin looks pretty much dead center. The barrel tapers, so a straight edge placed on the scope mounting surface and eyeballing the alignment becomes a bit zen like. My scope tells me the miss-alignment is around 30 minutes. As having a scope on my Marlin was only required for testing, having a brass shim wedged under the rail didn't bother me, yes it was unsightly, but it was only temporary. Mounting a scope led to problem #2, attaching a hammer spur extension, after sourcing one. Short of welding, I'm not sure how one can keep it tight. 20 > 30 rounds was usually enough to rattle it loose. Continually snugging it up got a bit old, I just left it loose, after-all, it was a temporary "fix" to accommodate the scope.

I'll skip some rhetoric and give some accuracy results. Speer swagged 240 gr SWC bullets over a nearly full case of Trail Boss shoot around that 2 inch mark at 50 yards, and about the same at 100 yards. It does seem puzzling, 50 and 100 yard groups are identical. I got similar results with a Lyman 429360. Yes the notoriously enigmatic 429360 that would not shoot in any of my hip guns, go figure. After around a pail full of primers being expended, 2 inches at 50 was considered good, and I had my load. This load also works well in my hip guns. They run about 800 fps in a 29-2, 8 3/4" barrel, perfect.

I had expected better performance with cast bullets, the frustrations compelled me to do some research. My Marlin barrel slugs a bit big, not stupid big, just normal Marlin big. The grooves are a bit north of 0.430", maybe 0.431" and the bore is around 0.425". Saami minimum specs for a 44 Mag rifle are .431/.424, so they are pretty much dead on. Saami also lists the twist at a leisurely 1:38. Saami also calls for 12 grooves, so it's pretty easy to see that Marlin wrote the standard. The general shooting public seems to have a certain disdain for micro-groove rifling, so to pacify the customers, they reduced the number of grooves to 6. My rifle has 6 grooves. Here's where I'll add my opinion; first, a 1:38 twist is not a good twist for a 44 Mag, it's not even very good for a 44-40 either. Neither are the shallow grooves, which may have been OK with 12 grooves, but are probably too shallow for 6. Interestingly most imported 44 magnum rifles have barrels built to revolver specs. The Saami minimum standard for the handgun/revolver 44 mag is for a 0.417" bore, with 6 grooves at 0.429", and a twist of 1:20. I have a 44 Mag rifle and a 44-40 rifle with barrels that are built to mimic that spec, and neither of them required a pail of primers to find a suitable load.

When one considers the dimensions that SAAMI specifies for 44 Magnum rifles, being able to hit a stetson hat at 50 paces is what I would call excellent accuracy. Ken Waters, in his PET Loads for the 44 Mag rifle also alludes to the 1:38 twist of his B92 Browning in less than complimentary terms. He has this to say about the B92 Centennial: " Unfortunately, its demonstrated accuracy does not equal its fine appearance - mainly because of its shallow too-slow thirty-eight inch twist". I've owned a B92 Browning Centennial, a fine looking rifle, with deplorable sights and poor accuracy. No sellers remorse when it was traded away.

I cannot get the 1894 Marlin to run as fast or smooth as my '66, but it is close. With a full magazine, feeding the first round is most times a bit less than smooth, even after trimming the magazine spring. The open sights are a bit fine for cowboy work, and with cowboy loads it could use a shorter front bead. I have the elevator on my rear sight set at max elevation.

Barreled as it is, an 1894 Marlin in 357 magnum would probably be a better choice than a 44 Mag. It is fortunate that no Saami standard is available for a 357 Magnum rifle. I hope it's safe to assume a rifle will have the same bore/groove and twist as a 357 handgun.

Anyways, that is my review.

Nitro

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This shows the laser etched checkering after touch-up with the checkering tools. It shows just a hint of the "burn" marks or wood feathering. Lasers are a wonderful tool, wood is not the best medium, as it varies in density, it's hard to control the burn.


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Left side, the darker lumber.


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Right side, a couple of shades lighter.


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The bolt, slightly proud, but nice fit.
 
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Had a Marlin 1894 in 44 mag.
Sold it in favor of a stainless Chiappa Alaskan 92 takedown with a 16" bbl.
The Alaskan is a superb rifle with no safety crap on it.
Has the JMB half #### safety and is slick and accurate.
 
Had a Marlin 1894 in 44 mag.
Sold it in favor of a stainless Chiappa Alaskan 92 takedown with a 16" bbl.
The Alaskan is a superb rifle with no safety crap on it.
Has the JMB half #### safety and is slick and accurate.

I did the same. No regrets. Had to install some sling swivel studs, however.
 
That gun will carry perfectly into the deer woods and no BATFE problems taking it stateside.
My SW model 29 and the Alaskan use the same ammo.
They will both accompany me deer hunting on the family homestead in PA this fall.
 
I’ve also had a Marlin 1894. And I also sold it for a Chiappa 1892 16” 357 Magnum, which I much prefer. The fit and finish on the Chiappa is very very good - better than my Marlin.

Thanks for your review!
 
Nice read. Always had an interest in the handgun caliber lever guns, one of these days... I never knew about the 44mag saami specs being different in a rifle. Does anyone know which companies use handgun specs?
 
From my experience: My sons Rossi '92 rifle in 44 Mag use a faster twist and smaller bore with deeper grooves. Bore is app. 0.421" and the grooves are app. 0.430". It shoots just about anything well, and is stupid accurate.

My Rossi 44-40 barrel is the same, and requires 429/430 bullets, 427 bullets made for the 44-40 don't work. This rifle has had a fair number of owners, a gunshow pass-around. It's a real turkey, one of those guns with issues, so that shooters don't keep it around. One of the previous owners got it to shoot 200 gr Speer Gold Cup bullets fairly well, had no luck with lead. I bought it around 4 owners later, it came with a set of Redding reloading dies and a Lyman 427666 mold. I already had some loads worked out for other 44-40s, made load development somewhat easier. Bullets dropped from the 427666 didn't work. As mentioned before, this rifle has issues, the action wasn't very slick, the hole for the L & B Pin Hole Plug Screw was not drilled/tapped in the correct location, it was rubbing the bolt. A bit of trimming solved that. A quick look down the bore with a Chinese bore camera revealed some tool chatter about half way down the barrel. The grooves are OK, just a couple chunks missing from the lands. These are undetectable after about 20 shots with cast. These divots fill with lead, smooth out and all is well. I shoot cast, so I just clean with a soft patch now and then, never do a deep cleaning. When you really clean it, it takes about 20 rounds to get her shooting again.

It is a bit annoying to shoot Cowboy action with, first time out, on the second stage, I had 2 misfires, the safety was on !!!! The safety takes little or no effort to put on, hard to go to fire, a little rub or touch and it was on safe. I adjusted it so that it is very hard to put to the safe position. With that annoyance dealt with, that leaves the ejection issue, the empties land on the top or brim of my hat, when I reach for the next gun, the empties fall all over me, funny to watch I suppose, but I'm not amused. The other annoyance, when you run it fast every shell comes out mangled, 44-40 brass is easily mangled. As the round is drawn out of the chamber, the mouth gets mangled, not a problem when you run her slow, really bad when you run her fast.

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IMO you will have some issues with every Rossi '92. The 44 Mag that my son has wasn't very slick, it just needed a bit of polishing. The receiver had more waves on it than Lake Superior. I worked on that and it looks pretty good now. When my brother owned it, he had problems with the sights, and eventually found replacements that solved that problem. The finish on the wood was poor, again, I worked on that with some fine sand paper and Mr Tru-Oil shined it up for me, the wood looks good now.

Never a dull moment, I've been shooting CAS for about a year and a half, and am still searching for the holy grail. I've tried 6 different rifles, 7 different hip guns, 4 or 5 shotguns, perhaps 6 and am on my second cart. Load development is ongoing, buying bullets, different molds and sourcing powder and primers when I run out keeps me busy. The fun never ends. I don't want to reload for shotgun, been there done that when I shot skeet. Finding the right 12 ga target shell is a bit of a quest unto itself. Most low recoil target ammo is also high velocity, and high velocity is not allowed in CAS. The Browning 2 3/4 dram 1 1/8 is good, as is the 1100 fps 1 oz Score, and if you have some choke in the gun, Challenger 7/8 oz extra light works well. Federal makes some nice stuff, but it is hard to find here (Winnipeg).

My thread, so I suppose is it is OK for me to get a bit off topic.
 
Owned several Rossi 92s over the years.
They made great kits for winter doldrum chasing projects.

One, a pre-safety, pre-Br#####h Amadeo Rossi in 454 Casull was a real sweetheart after the refinish, tune up and smooth job.
It had loading gates on BOTH the receiver and the mag tube.
Fixed all the issues over the course of 1 winter and refinished the stocks with tru-oil.

The 16" bbl Rossi 92s in 357 and 44 mag I similarly rehabilitated.

They were all good shooters to. Those Rossi barrels were accurate.

I found the old pre Br#####h Amadeo Rossi rifles were better built guns than the newer Br#####h guns.
I don't know what it is about legacy guns, especially levers like the model 92 clones but guys who saw the guns fell in love with them and couldn't get the cash outta their wallets fast enough.
Sold them all for significantly more than I paid for them. Now the only Rossi I own is a single shot 12 ga.
 
Man those 44-40 brass really do get mangled!

Sure sign that the gun needs and action smoothing and tune up.
I did my own work as I've tuned up many a levergun over 50+ years of shooting but Steves Gunz stateside (Texas) sells a Rossi 92 kit that'll get the job done if you have normal manual dexterity and can follow easy to understand directions.
 
44-40 is thin brass, just reload as usual, the dies will fix the brass.

For revolvers and tubular magazine rifles I used Lee's Factory Crimp Die.

https://leeprecision.com/factory-crimp-die-44-40.html

:agree:

Little differences in trimmed cartridge length won't affect your neck tension as with conventional roll crimping.
Accuracy has improved in my hand loads since I switched to Lee factory crimp dies.
I apply the Lee fc dies 3 times per cartridge turning the cartridge 120 degrees each time for a smooth, homogeneous, consistent crimp and neck tension from round to round that rivals or exceeds a factory crimp.
 
From what I have read Marlin Micro groove barrels are not recommended for cast bullets whatsoever. They were designed for jacketed bullets. A lot of guys who shoot cast go nuts over the older Marlins with Ballard type rifling. The misalignment of action and barrel(if that is the cause of the 30 minutes of error) is weird. Perhaps the mounting holes were drilled incorrectly at the factory? Marlin has had some quality control issues for sure in the last few years. I much prefer the older Marlins myself.
 
From what I have read Marlin Micro groove barrels are not recommended for cast bullets whatsoever. They were designed for jacketed bullets. A lot of guys who shoot cast go nuts over the older Marlins with Ballard type rifling. The misalignment of action and barrel(if that is the cause of the 30 minutes of error) is weird. Perhaps the mounting holes were drilled incorrectly at the factory? Marlin has had some quality control issues for sure in the last few years. I much prefer the older Marlins myself.

The 44-40 has a slow twist of 1:36, and fairly shallow grooves; (.4285 - .4225) / 2 = 0.003". The 44-40 was designed to shoot cast, with black powder, which "bumps" up the soft lead bullets. I did own a well used 44-40, a Winchester '92 with very little rifling for the last 4" of the bore. It still shot OK, not great, unless the bullets were too small.

The SAAMI spec for 44 mag rifle calls for 12 grooves, Micro Groove. Marlin, and others, reduced that to 6 and called it Ballard. Unfortunately the rifling was left shallow; ( .431 - .424 ) / 2 = 0.0035". The rifling is still shallow, and the twist is the same 1:36 as the old 44-40, but the bore/groove is larger. With a minimum groove diameter of .431, the groove diameter could be as large as .435 and still be withing spec, cast bullets need to be larger than most molds nominally cast. Cast bullets in the .432 > .433 range are not common. The same situation applies to most 38-55 rifles, .379 > .380 barrels and .375 bullets, and that doesn't work either.

It's my contention that the bore is too big, which requires shallow grooves, to avoid an even worse oversize situation. 44 Magnum pistol specs seem better, .429 groove/.417 bore/6 grooves/20 twist. Still Ballard, but deeper grooves, 0.006" or about twice as deep, and a smaller groove diameter. Bullets in the .429, .430 and .431 diameter are common, and are in the recommended ballpark.

Micro Groove, in theory, should be a good thing. Shallower grooves to distort the bullet less and more grooves to share the forces needed to spin the bullet. Unfortunately, if the bullet diameter is less than the groove diameter, there is not much rifling left to spin (stabilize) the bullet.

Jacketed bullets, because the jacket is harder, tolerate this condition and usually shoot decently. However, my attempt to shoot .375 jacketed bullets in my 38-55 was less than successful, more like a disaster. I also tried some 200 gr Gold Dot Speers in my Marlin, I'll quote from my notes; "In the Marlin '94, these are by far the most inaccurate load I've seen in a long time."

A bit of history: When the South American countries ordered rifles from Mauser, they seemed to call for deeper grooves than normal, same bore. The deeper grooves were spec'd, to tolerate dirty bores. In other words, they would tolerate a fair bit of crude in the barrel and still function without any issues like elevated pressure.

On my Marlin, windage was good when I mounted scope, the holes were OK. IMO the top of the receiver is probably sloped up a bit from parallel. The rainbow trajectory of a cast bullet doesn't help. A Speer 240 gr SWC with a velocity of 1000 fps and its .151 BC drops about a foot below the bore by the time it is at 100 yards, almost 6 feet before it reaches 200 yards. Theoretically speaking, if the top of the receiver were parallel to the bore, it would take about 10 > 15 minutes of elevation adjustment to sight in, well within the adjustment range of most scopes. I don't think it's a quality control issue, I think they just make the receivers, just make the top flat, don't even attempt or bother to machine the top parallel to the bore. To do so would mean that after threading the receiver for the barrel it would need to be re-jigged to machine the top of the receiver, IMO that does not happen.

The '94 Marlin is not a bad rifle, but as I've stated before, if you buy one, do yourself a favor, choose 357 Mag of 45 Colt as your caliber.
 
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