Marlin 7000 Setup For .22 Rimfire Precision Shooting - Input Required

waynewjw

waynewjw

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So before everyone tells me this is the wrong platform, I do have a 457 Varmint Precision Chassis that I'm setting up for precision shooting. But I thought I'd try an experiment for sh*ts and giggles to see what results I could produce. This is what I have:


Marlin 7000 Bull Barrel SA

Vortex Diamondback 4-16x44 EBR-2C MRAD reticle or Vortex Diamondback Tactical 6-24x50 EBR-2C MOA reticle. Both 30mm tubes.

This is what I need to add and need help sourcing:

20MOA Picatinny rail to fit the 11mm Marlin dovetail.​

I will then buy the Burris XTR rings with inserts 10moa on back and 20 moa on front so once everything is setup I'll have 50 moa before adjusting the scope(s).


Feedback and thoughts appreciated.
 
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Might run into adjustment issues with 50moa rail with those scopes, the 6-24 has 65moa adjustment, the 4-16 has 85moa, you have around half those numbers for elevation adjustment.
 
DIP makes a 25 MOA rail which can be purchased from Kinneys shooting supply as they will ship to Canada, however it is currently out of stock.
 
Based on my experience with a 60moa adjustment scope and a 30moa rail you won't be able to run 50moa of slope. Maybe 40moa if you have very tall rings.
 
waynewjw said:
So do I want to have 65 MOA or 85 MOA?
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Depends on how close you want to shoot. Do you want to be able to zero at 50-100m? Then you will need a scope with 100+ moa adjustment with 50moa rail, 120moa to be safe.
The adjustment range specs on the scopes are your total vertical range, fully up to fully down... 65moa elevation for example, so you only have half that roughly from center adjustment up or down, or 32.5 moa.
So you throw a 50moa rail, and only have 32.5moa adjustment, so at 100m you would be out of adjustment and still shooting 17.5moa high.
With 85moa, you would have 42.5moa adjustment, and run out of adjustment 7.5moa high at 100m.
 
Yes, you'll need at least double the adjustment in your scope. I run a 120 MOA scope with 60 MOA rail and ring combo and it barely zeroes at 100. Not to mention I'm peering through the very upper edge of the objective lens at 100 and it doesn't look so great.
 
Rings allow you to shim to whatever you want. Unsure why you can't zero at 50 and use the full travel range of the scope?

And the math means nothing... you will only know what your zero and shim needs are after putting a group on paper.

Jerry
 
Mystic Precision said:
Rings allow you to shim to whatever you want. Unsure why you can't zero at 50 and use the full travel range of the scope?

And the math means nothing... you will only know what your zero and shim needs are after putting a group on paper.

Jerry
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Brilliant stuff here.... wow, math doesn't mean anything in rail cant and scope adjustment.
Definitely listen to this guy, he offers real solid information.
Plus he sells stuff on CGN.
 
Hitzy said:
Brilliant stuff here.... wow, math doesn't mean anything in rail cant and scope adjustment.
Definitely listen to this guy, he offers real solid information.
Plus he sells stuff on CGN.
Click to expand...

You mount enough scopes on factory rifles and sight them in... yeah, maybe.. some of this makes sense

Real world doesn't give a crap about the assumptions you had going in.

Let the target tell you how much shim you need...and adjust accordingly.

Jerry
 
I'm not shooting a Marlin, but I'm also using a rifle with nothing but dovetail grooves to try to shoot PRS matches. I've got a cheap universal dovetail to Picatinny rail adapter that I cut down to fit my action, and went with the Burris XTR rings. The 30mm and 34mm rings come with two sets of the 20moa offset bushings, and I ended up filing down the bottom bushing shell in the front ring for more offset. That still wasn't enough to bottom out my scope adjustment, so I shimmed the rear one a bit as well. I used aluminum tape to shim it, but am going to take that out and measure the height I ended up and use some better shim material. The glue on the tape let's the aluminum move around a bit, so it takes a bit of shooting and re-torquing to get everything settled.
 
waynewjw said:
So with either scope am I good to adjust to shoot out to 200 yds? But not beyond or not much beyond?
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You will not know where your bore is pointing until you send bullets downrange. Once you get it zeroed, you will know how much UP travel you have left. Then you shim the scope as much as needed to maximise the travel of your scope. Sometimes you will need to use the reticle to reach those furthest distances... that is what it is there for.

The Burris XTR Sig rings have inserts to allow for up to 40 MOA... with narrow ring spacing typical of a rimfire, you may actually, end up with more.

No way to know until you have zero'ed the rifle. Definitely get a 20 MOA rail as a min.. more can't hurt.

Factory rifles aren't always square so trying to figure out how much travel you have rarely works out. Having the tools to help you shim a great amount is the practical solution.

Personally, for the LR rimfire game, I wouldn't start with the DB scopes... unless you have an enormous want... get something better. 34mm scopes are now readily available and offer tons more travel. And they do not need to cost alot. This makes set up easier and you are going to need all the elevation travel you can get if you want to shoot rimfire far.

Jerry
 
I understand that 34mm tube will give me more flexibility. And I can buy a 34mm scope, but I have a new 30mm tube sitting on my gun shelf...hence the start of this thread to see what combo’s I can make work. I will use the Burris XTR rings because of the MOA inserts. I need to find a rail that is better than 20moa...I understand Kenny’s in the US may have and they ship to Canada. I like all the feedback here, as it’s giving a clearer picture of what is possible.....or not.
 
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