Marstar's gas shims fit a M1 Garand?

purple said:
No, they are different rifles. What sort of gas system problem are you attempting to fix on your Garand?
Click to expand...

I've just received my first Garand. I've watched the skullboy / hungry clinic videos. The gas system is similar but different. When re-installing the lock I found that it comes up to the 10 o'clock possition. I was thinking the shims would bring the lock back to the more desired 5 o'clock position? Any info on this would be appreciated.
 
Ah yes, our 2004 Clinic videos. Okay, on the M1 Garand it's a different arrangement or technique to tighten things up.

Strip down that gas cylinder and pull it off the barrel.
See those 3 splines around the barrel? Take a hammer (ball peen is nice), claw hammer will work.
Start tapping and deforming the 90 degree splines and peen or raise the metal.
Do this for the 3 splines.
Reassemble your gas cylinder, you will notice quite some resistance when you reassemble the gas cylinder.
Now your gas cylinder lock can be used to bring home that final turn of the gas cylinder lock to 6 o'clock. :D

This method is documented by all the NRA Match Conditioning Methods for the M1 Garand. :)

Hope this helps,

Barney
 
Hungry said:
Ah yes, our 2004 Clinic videos. Okay, on the M1 Garand it's a different arrangement or technique to tighten things up.

Strip down that gas cylinder and pull it off the barrel.
See those 3 splines around the barrel? Take a hammer (ball peen is nice), claw hammer will work.
Start tapping and deforming the 90 degree splines and peen or raise the metal.
Do this for the 3 splines.
Reassemble your gas cylinder, you will notice quite some resistance when you reassemble the gas cylinder.
Now your gas cylinder lock can be used to bring home that final turn of the gas cylinder lock to 6 o'clock. :D

This method is documented by all the NRA Match Conditioning Methods for the M1 Garand. :)

Hope this helps,

Barney
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply. I've since found that the rear of the gas cylinder does not have to seal at the barrel. Thanks again Barney.
 
Last edited:
whenindoubtfixit said:
Thanks for the reply. Your video showed that technique for tightening up a "wobbling" gas cylinder. Mine doesn't have much, if any wobble. But the lock turns to 10 o'clock. Does the rear of the gas cylinder not have to seal at the barrel? Would the effective length of the gas cylinder / lock not need to be lengthened to get the "snugged up at 6 o'clock". Thanks again Barney.
Click to expand...

Having the lock time up against the barrel shoulder/seat in the 10 o'clock position before being backed off to 6 o'clock to insert the screw isn't that bad. Many are worse.

The ideal situation is to have a lock that times up against the barrel shoulder exactly at 6 o'clock. Match conditioning instructions stipulated a maximum of 8 o'clock before being backed off to 6 o'clock. Trying to grind/polish/ re-shape the barrel shoulder or the inner bearing surface of the lock to achieve a timing closer to 6 o'clock is a mug's game. The best solution is to trial fit a number of locks to find one that times up closer to 6 o'clock.

Having done that, you must ensure that there is still some clearance between the rear face of the gas cyl and the front handgd ferrule. You must also make sure that the gas port in the bottom of the barrel appears in the "window" of the gas cyl to ensure functionality.

A tight fit of the gas cyl on the barrel splines to avoid rotational movement and variations in the front sight position is critical. There is a "daisy chain" of things to look at with the gas cyl to get the best results. One real easy one is to torque down the stacking swivel screw to prevent the swivel from smacking the cylinder when fired. The op rod doesn't fit tightly into the rear of the gas cyl. The critical dimensions for functionality is the ID of the gas cyl bore and the OD of the piston at the end of the op rod.
 
Thanks for the info. So much to learn in so little time...
Thanks again.

purple said:
Having the lock time up against the barrel shoulder/seat in the 10 o'clock position before being backed off to 6 o'clock to insert the screw isn't that bad. Many are worse.

The ideal situation is to have a lock that times up against the barrel shoulder exactly at 6 o'clock. Match conditioning instructions stipulated a maximum of 8 o'clock before being backed off to 6 o'clock. Trying to grind/polish/ re-shape the barrel shoulder or the inner bearing surface of the lock to achieve a timing closer to 6 o'clock is a mug's game. The best solution is to trial fit a number of locks to find one that times up closer to 6 o'clock.

Having done that, you must ensure that there is still some clearance between the rear face of the gas cyl and the front handgd ferrule. You must also make sure that the gas port in the bottom of the barrel appears in the "window" of the gas cyl to ensure functionality.

A tight fit of the gas cyl on the barrel splines to avoid rotational movement and variations in the front sight position is critical. There is a "daisy chain" of things to look at with the gas cyl to get the best results. One real easy one is to torque down the stacking swivel screw to prevent the swivel from smacking the cylinder when fired. The op rod doesn't fit tightly into the rear of the gas cyl. The critical dimensions for functionality is the ID of the gas cyl bore and the OD of the piston at the end of the op rod.
Click to expand...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom