Matching byf 43 in walnut.

Cool! I knew it didnt make sense. The close ups do wonders. Your right the finish doesnt look ground off/different in the later pics you posted. The cross grinding really threw me off in the last serial there. Usually from the factory, even for a 43 they took more care having it it nice and smooth.

Again, gorgeous specimen you have there! I cant believe the condition of the stock.
 
Cool! I knew it didnt make sense. The close ups do wonders. Your right the finish doesnt look ground off/different in the later pics you posted. The cross grinding really threw me off in the last serial there. Usually from the factory, even for a 43 they took more care having it it nice and smooth.

Again, gorgeous specimen you have there! I cant believe the condition of the stock.
The grind marks vary from bolt to bolt. Some were better finished than others and the grind pattern varies quite a bit. There are also rare examples of factory errors where the bolt numbers were ground off and renumbered right at the factory. Again the letter and number font is what really needs to be compared to known good examples.

In today's world you would be crazy not to be suspicious and check out numbers very carefully before purchasing something. There are a lot of fakes out there and some are very well done. Get a second opinion and ask some one that knows. I do before I purchase mine, unless its from a very reputable source or has previously been verified.
 
Ref bolt roots, there are patterns. For byf, in general (yes, there are exceptions):

pre-1942: polished with few, if any, tooling marks. serifed font.
1942-1943: filed with obvious linear tooling marks. serifed font. lots of MI (FN-subcontracted bolts) start showing up.
1944 to the end: either swirl marks from milling or linear tool marks, depending on serial block. Sometimes unseriffed serials are used, particularly on FN bolts the later in the war we are talking.

You can't always rely in the trough to determine originality. On reproductions, I've personally welded up the rood and re-machined it to original specs, then stamped a new number. I also have a set of lowercase MO-like stamps. I don't make any repros of basic infantry rifles, but others do. (I stick to sniper variants and leave flaws on purpose to evidence the fakery).

When a bolt stamping is shallow from the factory (often), I will simply put the bolt in the mill and use a carbide end mill to mill off the old marks, at a very slight angle so that the trough stays original depth. Hard to detect in a photo.

Here is the 44byf zf41 bolt root I faked in another cgn thread. If you relied on the trough or the belief that lowercase late-war suffix fonts aren't out there, you COULD be fooled. In this case, original numbers were removed from an RC bolt using the milling machine.



And here is a very late (byf44 k block - november 44) bolt where they went back to serifed font and more linear tooling marks, very like the 43 shown above.



Here is a byf41 where you can see the original linear tooling marks have been polished down significantly. seriffed font.

 
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