Matchlock Smoothbore

mooncoon

mooncoon

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Due to my sheltered existence relative to guns, I shot a matchlock yesterday for the first time. I can only say what a strange sensation. All other guns that I have shot, you squeeze the trigger and at some point the hammer or #### snaps down and the gun fires. With this gun when you squeeze the trigger, the serpent swings down in proportion to your squeeze and it never "snaps down" I found that hard to get used to. Also found that the placement of the slow match is quite fussy or it won't strike and ignite the powder. In addition to that, I think that I need to use a thicker slow match because even after soaking in saltpeter and drying, the chord seemed to burn out after a short time, when I lay it on the shooting bench while reloading. That may in part have been due to the chord having a thin nylon core but a braided cotton outer portion. I think that the small cord plus a fussy positioning of the cord in the serpent meant that I usually had to tap the cord several times into the powder to get the pan to fire. Also discovered that you have to be careful not to use too much priming powder because when you swing the cover plate over the pan, while clamping the slow match in place, too much pan powder means loose powder on top of the pan cover.
Loading was easy and not different than loading a flintlock, up until the point where you replace the burning slow match in order to shoot. That process is quite awkward and forced me to lay the gun on the shooting bench to put the cord in the serpent. I had hoped that I could just press the cord into the jaws of the serpent but at least with the small cord that I was using, the jaws had to be loosened and tightened each time
On a positive side, the gun was remarkably accurate or I was remarkably lucky when I shot the gun; it hit the gongs I was shooting at 4 time our to 5

I don't know what company made the gun and the only indication is trademark on the lock. Some features of the gun look to be too good for an indian import and there are no proof marks on the barrel. I can't remove the barrel to check underneath it because it appears to be held in by screws rather than cross pins, and one screw is riveted over to secure the nosecap. Overall I like the gun and suspect I will like it even better once I learn some of its idiosyncracies. Guess I have to make some apostles now to hold the powder charges :>)

cheers mooncoon



 
I believe that is a matchlock I made quite a few years ago.The lock was made by a company in California if I remember correctly ,J Schroter.If it is the gun I made the barrel is from an early North Star trade gun while Curly G was still running it.You should be able to remove the barrel by removing the tang screw and the screws through the metal plates by the thimbles.The nosecap is held on by a screw from the inside of the barrel channel.If memory servesme right the barrel was a tight fit so a little tapping will get it out.Forgot to add the buttplate and trigger guard came from J Schroeter as well in fact I think I still have a buttplate and trigger guard somewhere.The trigger came from the North Star trade gun parts .It was my first try at building a muzzleloader.If you want one of the best matchlocks made look for a Kreckel.They normally can be identified with a large K on the lock.
 
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Mooncoon,
First of all, what a beauty! I so envy you that you are able to own and shoot such an amazing firearm. Maybe one day I'll get lucky enough to shoot a matchlock, and even luckier if I can own one. One question for you, you made mention that the match was soaked in saltpeter and then dried. Is this a premade match or home made? I ask because I thought saltpeter (potassium nitrate) was a controlled item to own, hopefully I am wrong? I'd love to get some of the slow matches to try on my flintlock for ignition using the jaws with no flint in it. So if you have a source to get one or two matches, please PM me. That's about as close to your awesome experience I can get for the time being, unless you come to Ontario and I bring you to the range.
 
Did a quick google for matchcord. Recall seeing detailed instructions on making good match, but couldn't find the reference. I may be mistaken, but I think lead acetate was used instead of potassium nitrate. TheRifleShoppe apparently sells match - offers 7/16" and 1/2" sizes.
I made a large matchlock musket in the early 70s. Copied one in the collection of the Royal Ontario Museum. 48" barrel, .75 caliber. My impressions of firing it were like mooncoon's. It was remarkable how slow ignition was. The match would disappear behind the shield, and there would be a pause while nothing seemed to be happening.
Don't know where that gun is now. The gun was bought by the Federal Gov't, is likely in an historic site somewhere. Be interesting to see what it looks like after 40 years.

maple leaf - I think you would find that a flint #### would be too violent for the match. Snapping matchlocks do not have anywhere near the energy of a flintlock. In addition, snapping a flint lock without a flint or block to strike the frizzen is very likely to damage the lock.
 
tiriaq said:
Did a quick google for matchcord. Recall seeing detailed instructions on making good match, but couldn't find the reference. I may be mistaken, but I think lead acetate was used instead of potassium nitrate. TheRifleShoppe apparently sells match - offers 7/16" and 1/2" sizes.
I made a large matchlock musket in the early 70s. Copied one in the collection of the Royal Ontario Museum. 48" barrel, .75 caliber. My impressions of firing it were like mooncoon's. It was remarkable how slow ignition was. The match would disappear behind the shield, and there would be a pause while nothing seemed to be happening.
Don't know where that gun is now. The gun was bought by the Federal Gov't, is likely in an historic site somewhere. Be interesting to see what it looks like after 40 years.

maple leaf - I think you would find that a flint #### would be too violent for the match. Snapping matchlocks do not have anywhere near the energy of a flintlock. In addition, snapping a flint lock without a flint or block to strike the frizzen is very likely to damage the lock.
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tiriaq,
Yeah, I thought it might do some damage. I can still dream though, I can still dream :)
 
achtanelion said:
If you're looking for good hemp cordage for the match, try an "adult toy shop". That's where I found mine. Apparently hemp cordage is good for bondage.
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Now that's funny.......adding to this, I purchase pipe cleaners for my numerous percussion forearms at local head shops, because regular tobacco shops aren't as popular as they once were.
 
in answer first to Chasseur; this gun has the word London stamped on the top of the barrel in small letters and in a very professional way. I don't for a minute think the gun is british just that the london was stamped probably at the time of manufacture of the barrel. Also the stock is walnut which argues against it being made in India (I think). The gun is in new condition and appears to have never or almost never been shot before I traded for it. Just wondering how much of those details match with the gun you made?

to Tiriaq; a friend in England recommended lead acetate and said that it gave a hotter and more even burn to the slow match. The catch with it and many chemicals that we would like to use, is that they are very difficult for an individual to purchase because of fears of terrorists. In my case, I dissolved some single F black powder in hot water and used that to saturate the cotton. lead acetate I am told was used as a primer or an explosive at some point in the past and probably is more restricted than potassium nitrate. It could be made I suppose from acetic acid and some heavily oxidized lead shot and I have also been told that it is known as litharge and used or was used as a pigment in some paints.

I think the first step is to check at Fabric Land and see what chord they have --- they seem to have become used to me pulling a micrometer out of my pocket and asking to buy 20 thou cotton :>) :>) I think I will hesitate for a bit on checking out the adult toy stores even though they may "flog" cotton bindings :>) :>)

cheers mooncoon
 
One of the other recommendations I came across was that if commercial cotton cordage is used, to wash it thoroughly to remove the sizing.
 
That's one spiffy looking firearm!

From watching various videos of matchlocks I observed that there are quite a few where the serpent is able to hold the wedged in cord just fine. I suspect that it's simply a case of making the jaws so they are shaped to allow easy insertion and good holding with formed jaws instead of using the screw adjustment. Basically I suspect that an upside down and smooth cornered Greek Omega symbol sort of shape would allow for easy insertion and removal as well as a nice stable hold once the cord is past the narrower waist of the mouth shape.

Making and shooting a somewhat classic arquebus or matchlock is on my To Do list for the machine shop once it's fully up and running.

For those that might want to find some good fuse/match cordage google for "sig dt fuse". This is a 100% cotton cord that is treated to burn at around 1/4 inch per minute. We free flight model airplane fliers use it to burn through a rubber band and activate a flip up tail section to drop our models out of a thermal. It's highly reliable in the burn rate and takes a pretty fair amount to put it out.
 
The London stamp on the barrel stamp on the barrel matches the one I made as like I said the barrel was from North Star.Originally the gun was a cavilerkit I bought from J F Schroeter of MEsa California.It had a 41 cal barrel made of seamless tubing and I had the north star barrel so I used the stock that came with it as a pattern and made my own stock and used the north star barrel.If you take the lock out you will see the sear is operated by a small coil spring.If you take the barrel out you will see two small blocks through which the stock attaches.I still have the trigger that originally came with the kit which was straight and not curved.I bought the kit from J F Schroeter back in the 80s they made matchlock and wheelock pistol kits at the time .I think I might still even have their catalog here somewhere.They even sent me a recipe for matchcord I may have also.I sold the gun without ever firing as I bought a Kreckel matchlock and played with that til I lost interest.I current have a custom Snaphaunce fowler that someday I ll get around to shooting.PS if you can find the old 100% cotton clothes line it makes the best match cord
 
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Chasseur; it definitely seems to be the one that you made. Excellent stock work by the way. I will shoot it some more in the new year. Interesting how long it seems to have floated around without being fired or at least appears to have never been fired. The person that I got it from, never fired it in the 6 months or so that he owned it.

cheers mooncoon
 
I made it in the mid to late 80s and sold it probably around 2007 or so.Like I said I also bought a Kreckel matchlock and played with that and then moved on to other guns (short attention span, my curse) If you would like I ll see if I can find the original matchcord recipe but I won t be able to do it until after the holidays as I m in the country at present.Also when shooting the matchlock 4FG in the pan is best and blow on the cord to make a coal before shooting
 
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