Mauser pillar bed
- Thread starter conor_90
- Start date
- Location
- Western Manitoba
I might be wrong, but I think there is only the tube for the rear on a Mauser 98. I have used 1/8" NPT black iron nipples - hacksaw and file to length - drilled out with 5/16" bit for clearance. Requires hole through stock to be drilled larger - made up a piloted bit to do that. Have also read of people using those lamp holder stems - completely threaded on out side - used in lamps - again cut to length. I was shown to set the tube length by making sure there is daylight between top of magazine walls and underside of the receiver when action screws drawn up tight - assemble the action and trigger guard outside the stock to get that distance.
Go to your local archery shop and get some appropriate diameter, aluminum/titanium arrow shafts tubes left over after they shorten the blank tubes for custom length pulls.
They're light, very rigid and very easy to cut/install.
I bought a bag of them from our local shop and the fellow wouldn't take anything for them. I gave him a couple of bottles of 10 year seasoned Blueberry wine.
Numrich has them in stock as well.
They're light, very rigid and very easy to cut/install.
I bought a bag of them from our local shop and the fellow wouldn't take anything for them. I gave him a couple of bottles of 10 year seasoned Blueberry wine.
Numrich has them in stock as well.
A Mauser action beds against the rectangular steel crossbolt at the front of the receiver. The tang beds against a tube which extends from the tang down to the trigger guard. As made, it is essentially pillar bedded.
If you have a commercial stock which does not have the rectangular crossbolt which engages the receiver's recoil lug, the lug could be epoxy bedded, along with the forward end of the trigger guard. This would mimic a pillar bedding tube.
A Mauser set up without the crossbolt might experience cracking of the stock between the recoil lug and the front of the magazine well.
If you have a commercial stock which does not have the rectangular crossbolt which engages the receiver's recoil lug, the lug could be epoxy bedded, along with the forward end of the trigger guard. This would mimic a pillar bedding tube.
A Mauser set up without the crossbolt might experience cracking of the stock between the recoil lug and the front of the magazine well.
- Location
- Western Manitoba
Typically, the mauser crack from the rear of the tang is caused by lack of adequate bedding at the front recoil lug - never was installed correctly, wood has gone punky, etc. - receiver is then allowed to move rearward under recoil - wedge shaped rear tang forces the stock wood apart. If that gap between rear of tang and the wood has closed up, a sure sign that the recoil lug has been allowed to move back. That tube helps, but preventing a crack off the rear end of the tang is almost always about making sure the receiver recoil lug can not come back - shims or epoxy bedding at the front.
Some Parker Hale, like Safari De Luxe, have/had a Parker Hale, or maybe a Santa Barbara, trigger that fits underneath the rear tang - so the top of that tube at the rear actually presses against the trigger body, not against the tang. If that has been swapped out on yours to another commercial trigger, maybe you are back to original design.
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- Location
- Western Manitoba
If you plan to fit a receiver to that stock, then you will be doing "bedding" - that is what bedding is - fitting a receiver, barrel and trigger guard into a stock - some old-school ways involved smoking / sooting the metal to make marks on the wood, then shaving or scraping them away until contact as wanted is achieved. Also inserting shims - metal, paper or wood were used at different times. Today, most always done with epoxy resin because it is so much easier - often called "glass bedding" because it used to be fiber-glas floc mixed into a resin with a hardner. But, however you chose to achieve it, fitting a "new" receiver into another stock is "bedding" it.
