MDT LSS chassis or Coretac muzzle brake as a first upgrade to a 10TR

roadcarver

CGN frequent flyer
EE Expired
Rating - 100%
26   0   0
Location
Ontario
I'm looking to add upgrades to my Savage 10TR. I'm trying to decide what to upgrade first.

I've been leaning towards a muzzle brake first to manage recoil and keep target acquisition.

Would it be a good idea to upgrade towards a brake first and then later on go with a MDT LSS chassis? Even perhaps I can get away by just keeping the current factory savage stock.
 
Up to you really.
A chassis is a great upgrade for the gun while the brake can be an upgrade for you. I find my 308 with a brake very comfortable to shoot and as a result it's easier for me to throw more rounds down range giving me more practice making me a better shooter.
My Savage 308 was already a shooter and is meant for hunting so I went with a quality optic and a better trigger (2.5 lbs) and left the stock. I have an HS3 chassis with skeleton stock on my 6mm and love it. Yes the chassis is more rigid but most Savages are sub moa in their tupperware, for sure if you handload. Check the torque on the action screws, I've seen a couple that were finger tight. I also put a brake on almost everything. Retaining your sight picture and reducing felt recoil both help you to become a better shooter in my opinion. You can see your misses and develop a smooth trigger pull without flinching worrying about the incoming wallop of unnecessary recoil.
I would say though that a factory rifle will usually shoot better than the average person behind it and generally more trigger time to work on the fundamentals will yield better results. Its always nice to use quality equipment but even better when you as a shooter can take advantage of it.
 
Last edited:
Depending on your goals for the upgrade personally I would go with the muzzle break. I've got my 10TR in a Cadex urban strike chassis and while it did improve the accuracy, it wasn't a night and day difference. It went from about ~0.800" groups to around ~0.600" groups at 100m. If want the ergonomics of a chassis or just to ### it up a bit then the chassis will be good. The muzzle break will make a noticeable difference in how nice it is to shoot and how much you will want to shoot it.
 
Thank you all for the replies. I ordered the Coretac brake as it is the easiest one to setup without crush washers.

I may consider the ESS later when more funds are available.
 
Last edited:
It cost me 980$ all in, shipping taxes included
Chassis, stock, handguard, AR15 rubber pistol grip, 1x MDT polymer mag, included in order.

So far the cheapest part in this build is the savage 10TR barrelled action!
 
For a 10TR, short action with a 15" top fore-end without rail with buttstock is about $980.

Only thing required is a pistol grip. The site states that with a beaver tail grip, some fitting may be necessary.

The ESS is priced cheaper than the TAC-21.

Can you tell me how is Worth (ballpark) ? I'm sooo in love :)

Dark
 
your worried about the recoil of that gun?... my buddy has one and its the nicest .308 ive shot... (if yours is .308 i havent shot others)... id get the chassis
 
Recoil is fine. It just seems to hop a lot and I loose sight of the target looking through the scope after a shot.

I've read about loading the bipod, but I haven't mastered it yet. Still learning to master the 10TR.

your worried about the recoil of that gun?... my buddy has one and its the nicest .308 ive shot... (if yours is .308 i havent shot others)... id get the chassis
 
Recoil is fine. It just seems to hop a lot and I loose sight of the target looking through the scope after a shot.

I've read about loading the bipod, but I haven't mastered it yet. Still learning to master the 10TR.

The hop is completely your position rather than the gun. If you get straight back behind the gun I'd be willing to bet you'd be able to track the shot without a brake. I know I can self spot to to 600m without a muzzle brake.


 
Thanks. These were the videos I saw. I will have to watch and try again. Thx.

The hop is completely your position rather than the gun. If you get straight back behind the gun I'd be willing to bet you'd be able to track the shot without a brake. I know I can self spot to to 600m without a muzzle brake.


 
I love my ESS




34zg8sz.jpg
 
Back
Top Bottom