metal bonding, but not JB Weld

marlin60

marlin60

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I had to modify several magazines from Ghost Holster for capacity, and bonded little metal brackets on the rear, inside of the mag, to limit it to 10 rounds.

I used a two ingredient epoxy, rated for metal, and all was fine for several months. I noticed a rattle in one of my mags before xmas, and when I opened it the bracket had come off.

I DIDN'T use JB Weld, as I thought it was TOO strong, but obviously the stuff I used (a generic metal bonder from Canadian Tire, can't recall which one now, comes in a double syringe) is not good enough.

I'd like to be able to reverse the modification to the mag (but I'm not really sure why).

Is there an alternative anyone can recommend that is permanent, but not forever. If not I'll try the epoxy one more time...and if it fails again, then JB it.

Thanks.
 
Perhaps little sheet metal screws, or machine screws, or POP rivit? only problem with all of these is you can see them from the outside :( but they are easy to reverse and will hold better than 5min epoxy.

A spot weld with a mig would work too. Drill hole in mag, position bracket, MIG from outside. With little spot welds you could drill/hammer off the bracket not problem. Now that I think about it...maybe to overkill :)

Nic
 
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Good stuff thanks.

The mags had a rivet in the side when received..they have to be limited before Angus can ship them. Only prob was that the mag would not go into the gun...the rivet was in the way (by design..Angus just makes them legal...not functional. That is up to the purchaser).

I know of others that use a rivet, but I was afraid of the damage the rivet might cause by rubbing the mag well over time.

If anyone has a rivet technique that you have pics/link/instructions for, I would appreciate it.
 
Pics I have.
If you need a different angle etc. let me know.

I just don't know where there is space on the mag for an extending rivet that won't impact the mag well.

mag2.jpg


http://home.thezone.net/~bkendell/mag.jpg

http://home.thezone.net/~bkendell/mag1.jpg

http://home.thezone.net/~bkendell/mag3.jpg
 
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From the pics, it just looks to me like you maybe didn't prepare the surfaces properly before applying the epoxy. Use a bit of 220 grit sand paper to rough up the metal bracket and do the same on the inside of the mag to take off the paint or blue and expose the bare metal. Then be sure to let your epoxy cure for the longest amount of time specified in the instructions. It should result in a bond that you would need a cold chisel to part.

You can also use a pop rivet to affix your bracket inside the mag by counter sinking your exterior hole for the rivet slightly and then filing it flush. The same can be done with a traditional brass rivet.
 
What about solder? Might have some discouloration, (burning) to deal with afterwards though. Should be strong if prepped properly, and if you want to take it apart again, just heat it up.
 
If these have to pass any real inspection, I would lean heavilly towards a rivet AND some decent epoxy, or the MIG weld (or TIG if you know anyone that can) through a hole, then refinish the mag.

I converted some Browning High Power mags by welding an extension to the underside of the follower, which may be an option in this case, or it may not. If the current owner wished, the follower could be replaced or the extension cut off, but with the extension in place it meets the letter and intent of the law.

If the mags are metal, then less heat than it would take to ruin the finish wil generally cause epoxy to come loose, and it does not handle flexing well at all.

If you can find a source for aircraft grade countersunk pull type rivets (CherryMax, and CherryLock are two types) they are quite a bit more durable than pop rivets, and can be installed with the same puller. I have not heard of anyone getting any greif over riveted mags.

Cheers
Trev
 
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