Meters,Yards and Mil-Dots,tricks of the trade,add yours!!!

Jamie

Jamie

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this is a post for all of us to use please feel free to add your ranging tips


now before you go out and buy a laser your scope can help you get first round hits if you know the size of your target,your DOPE and SWAG(drop and Wind)this is for the mil-dot

a mil-dot master is also a great tool to use

for Yards target size in " x 27.77 divide by mils = range

Meters target size in " x 25.4 divide by mils = range


I use both I know the differnce in clicks to my Meter 0 I also have a Range Card for my rifle in both meters and yards

I use meters for hunting all my maps are meters so if I know were I am on the map I can range with that,my GPS is in meters,my Car also does meter,and so does yours remember that 1000Meters is 1 kilometer

I only use yards for range use

here are some more Yards to Meter tips

This is to convert a yard distance of measure to a meter distance of measure in your head.

There are 91.44 meters in 100 yards.

To convert yards to meters we will use the 9 in 91.44 meters as the basis of multiplying.

Ok we are on a 200yd range. We need to know the meter range.

I take the 2 from the 200 and multiply it by 9 I get 18

I take the same 2 from the 200 and add it to the end of 18. So it now reads 182

200yds = 182 meters

Same thing for 300yds

300yds = 273 meters

Again at 400yds

400yds = 364 meters

Now going from a meter range and turning it in to a yard range.

We will use the 9 in 91.44 meters as the basis of multiplying again with a twist.

Ok I need to turn this 200 meter range in to yards to easy.

I go 2 from the 200 and I get 18. I keep the 2 from the 200

Drop the 00 and insert the 18

So the range looks like this.

200 meters = 218yds

300 meters = 327 yds

400 meters = 436 yds

To easy right?


Jamie Barkwell
 
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This was taken from the Nightforce web site



the Nightforce NP-R2 reticle is divided into 2 M.O.A. increments (approx. 2 inches at 100 yards). These vertical increments are used for range estimation, multiple zero points and accurate bullet drop compensation. Any size target can be easily ranged using a simple formula: (target size in inches ÷ M.O.A. x 100 = range in yards). Once range is determined select an appropriate hold point based on the bullet drop of your cartridge. The vertical spacings can easily be split into 1 M.O.A. increments further enhancing long range accuracy. The horizontal line is divided into equal 5 M.O.A. increments for windage compensation

Maybe we can get Skullboy to teach us how his S&B works:dancingbanana:

and if you are using anyother type of Reticle please post your how too's



Jamie Barkwell
 
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I love my nightforce NP-R1, same setup as the NP-R2 but the graduations are smaller (1 MOA elevation, 2 MOA windage) and the math is dead easy for "slow" people like myself. The smaller graduations are nice for getting a more precise estimate of MOA's.

-John
 
I take the easy way out, go to a range , meters , yds, don't matter. Copy data on a sheet for each firing point. And thats it.
Go back , dial the numbers , hit the target. Now their may be a bit of difference cause as climate, time a day, a bunch a stuff can change poi , but its close enough that the sighter is on the target.
And once you have data for that load, you can use a range finder when hunting, or target shooting where distances are not marked.
And knowing bullet path, you can get darn close dialing anything in between the ranges you got data for. :runaway:
 
Levi Garrett said:
And knowing bullet path, you can get darn close dialing anything in between the ranges you got data for. :runaway:
Click to expand...


but darn close is still a miss;)


I have shot at clubs where POI is 3MOA high from my home range,I always shoot a slip my dials back to zero when at a new range or hunting area:)

Lasers are very good but when they stop working........


Jamie
 
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You know what's a hell of a lot easier than using yards/feet/inches? Metric!
For ranging: (Target size [m] x 1000) / Target read [mils].

Say you see a tall guy...2m tall, and he reads 4 mils. So 2000/4=500m away.

-Rohann
 
well not that I am saying you should range man sized targets...


but at matches a fig 12 or 11 is not two meters tall...

when in the field I range targets that don't move,old fence posts,rocks or I will even brake off a old dead tree....then move to my hide and range from there...I always have a small Measuring tape with me, so I know the size of what I am ranging


just practice it all the time and you will get good at it...Meters makes more sense to me in the field,I carry a small set of rose clipers too for trimming up my hide....but we can start a new topic on gear you bring to the field later


Jamie Barkwell
 
There are two places to introduce error into Mil ranging:

Target or reference size estimation, and
Mil size of that target.

Is that a 10" target or a 12" target at 1.2 Mils? At 10 inches, that target is 231 yds away. At 12 inches, it's 277 yds away. With my .223 at 2800fps and 55gr bullets, the difference is about 6" of bullet drop....a possible miss or injured animal.

And that's between 200 and 300 yds. Imagine the differences at 500 to 600 yds!

Estimating how many mils covers your target size is difficult as well. Is it 1.2 mils or 1.25 mils or 1.3?? The same types of ranging errors occur here as well.

Finding things of known size is really important, accurately measuring the Mils, and knowing what degree of error your estimations can have is important too.
 
K 750

you are right that is why I always try to range the bigest thing in the field

Jamie Barkwell
 
yds meters ranging mildots

Hi all:

there are two base factors I use in the ranging calcs:

one mil = 1 / 1000 so in meters it's 1 m at 1000 m or 0.1 m at 100 m
1 click on the S&B is one tenth of Mil (1/10 Mil) or 1 cm at 100m (it's writen on the S&B scopes) so if a man stands 2 mils in the scope he's at 1000 yds because 2 mils at 1000 yds is 2 yards at 1000 yds is 6 feet = height of a man.
the 4Mil man is at 500 yds for the same reason.

the other one is 1.05 inch at 100 yds is one MOA or minute of angle
If you have a calculator you will find it's 1.047 but 1.05 will do for rounding off. Don't use the 1 inch at 100 yds if you're into precision shooting because with 4 minutes you're almost 1/4 inch off target (4.2 vs 4 inch)
so at 1000 yds one MOA is 10.5 inch.

my trajectory gets written on a Leupold Retractable Ballistic Chart. I know it's 35$ US but so practical. No more loosing range cards or taped chart that comes off in the rain etc... there are some 25 inch tube models and 30mm.
it attaches like a ring on your scope tube. when you need the come-up for a specific range you pull on the chart tip and it slides out. spring retractable when you're done. I also paste another one in the rear butler creek scope cap.

The best range finder on the market for the price is the Swavorski 8x30 and the best deal I got was 810$ US + 20$ shp. It's a little stiff but when you can range targets at 19XX yds it's well worth it. It is speced at 1500 yds or 1400m and it will not stop working unless the battery is dead or you throw it down a 1000 foot cliff which I don't normaly do with my expensive stuff.

Of course for when there is no time for ranging with the LRF as in some stages in a serious sniper match I made myself some plastified milling cards (ok, it was "arrowhead" who made the cards) the card principle is simple. it's playing card size and looks like what you see in your mildot reticle scope. it is calibrated per target type. one card per target size, Larry, IPSC, fig 11 etc...
several sizes are drawn on the card and the range indicated for each size in the scope and you see how many mills it fills. ex. if you know the stage will be with IPSC targets you take your IPSC card, look thru your scope and see how many mils the width or height covers then refer to the card and see which of the drawn targets fits the same number of mils then read off the range. it is as accurate as you can see in your scope and judge the amount of mils such as is it 1.3 or 1.4? but it should put you on target for this target size (IPSC is 18 x 30 or so) even at 900 or 1000 yds.

I must have forgot something ... :D
 
Jamie said:
well not that I am saying you should range man sized targets...


but at matches a fig 12 or 11 is not two meters tall...

when in the field I range targets that don't move,old fence posts,rocks or I will even brake off a old dead tree....then move to my hide and range from there...I always have a small Measuring tape with me, so I know the size of what I am ranging


just practice it all the time and you will get good at it...Meters makes more sense to me in the field,I carry a small set of rose clipers too for trimming up my hide....but we can start a new topic on gear you bring to the field later


Jamie Barkwell
Click to expand...
Haha well I understand that, I just couldn't think of a good example at the time.
My main point is, it's less complicated if you use metric as there are less precise decimals and more multiples of 10.

I.E 20 cm object, 2 mils: (.2 x 1000)/2=100m

-Rohann
 
Like Sniper767, I have 1/10 mil click adjustments (1cm @ 100M) on my T-Pal. I also use the Horus 37 reticle. Ergo when targeting, the maximum number of clicks I'll ever really need to use to bring me to a defined point within the reticle is 3. Metric ranging using Mils has already been discussed here. Horus reticles, by character, map your second shot targeting point for you taking all factors into account.
 
Silly question: Does the zoom or variable lens length of a scope affect the distance between the mil dots, or do they enlarge when the scope is changed from 10x to 20x?

LH
 
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Oh, and I printed this and put it in my range bag.

mildots.jpg
 
if your scope is front focal then you can range on any power,

if it is not the most of the time you range at MAX power or what the scope was spec's say to range at

Jamie
 
My mildot trick is to use scopes where the mil dot is set for the exact middle of the power range (e.g., 6-24 power scope, where the mil dot is set for 12x). This way, I can crank to the maximum power (e.g., 24), where each mil will represent .5 mil, which makes it much easier to mil accurately (e.g., mil readings are in .5 mil increments vs 1 mil increments).
 
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