micometer head removal

varmintboy

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I have a Mitutoyo 103 series outside mic that I want to remove the mic head from. It is a plain stem. Quite a bit of googling and can't find the proper way to remove it. The little bit I could find out about it sounds like there is an adhesive that holds it in place. But there was also mention of a press fit. Anyone have some firsthand knowledge how to remove it? I want to be careful with it because I want to adapt it to a seating die.
 
I think he means the actual body of it? I don;t know if theres is a way to get it out in one piece. I kind of think you can buy one separate (for installing in custom fixtures) but I don't remember if it was Mitutoyo.
 
Too good a tool to adapt for a seating die, IMO. A cheap mic would be just as good for a micrometer seater. I have a few still new in wrap series 103 here and just looked at the instructions for you. The inner sleeve does not come apart or off the frame for normal cleaning. Sorry, no help.
 
Redding

Just buy yourself a redding Competition seating die , it comes with a Micrometer head and will last you a life time a lot simpler and less costly than destroying a perfectly good mic and trying to adapt it to a seating die IMO :confused:
 
I'm not wrecking anything. The mike frame is warped and headed for the garbage so I was hoping to salvage the head. It's free and in good shape, and I've already got a die. All it was going to cost me was a bit of time to lathe up a sleeve to adapt it to the die.
 
If it's boogered already, you pretty much have nothing to lose.

I'd start by cutting off passes from the side of the lug around the spindle, until I got in to the sleeve. A fit of work with a file will accomplish the same.

If you check out the maker's catalogue, you can find spindles that are used for various purposes. The pictures will give you an idea of how they are built.

Gonna be a pile of work to adapt it. May be easier to just build your own thread and thimble.

Cheers
Trev
 
If it's boogered already, you pretty much have nothing to lose.

I'd start by cutting off passes from the side of the lug around the spindle, until I got in to the sleeve. A fit of work with a file will accomplish the same.

If you check out the maker's catalogue, you can find spindles that are used for various purposes. The pictures will give you an idea of how they are built.

Gonna be a pile of work to adapt it. May be easier to just build your own thread and thimble.

Cheers
Trev

X2, this will do it and if the frame is warped already you loose nothing
 
Most micrometers are friction fit, this can be determined by the way they can be zero adjusted by using the pin wrench to rotate the barrel in the frame, all the best Art

Most of the mics, if not all of them, that adjust that way, have a sleeve that adjusts that is a friction fit onto the main sleeve that fits onto the body of the mic.

I've butchered a few broken mics over the years, salvaging parts and the like. Mostly, if I can, I cut them so I can still drill a couple holes in the remnants of the mic body, to attach them as adjustable stops, or whatever.

I think accuracy would suffer if the main sleeve were not firmly attached to the body. My bet is that they are mounted in with adhesives.

Hmmm....

Just went and looked at three different Mit. mics. All appear to have the inner sleeve mounted through the head end of the body.

Try this out. http://www.mitutoyo.com/pdf/E1006MicrometerHeads.pdf

Cheers
Trev
 
trevj, I was snooping around on mitutoyo's site but didn't see the page you linked to. I'll check it out. thanks
 
I got it done yesterday. Used an old chinese mike to experiment with. Cut the frame with a die grinder and a cutting wheel. Made the adapter to the seating die. Also made a sleeve drilled to 22 cal bore size to fit over a bullet to use for a reference point when measuring the cartridge with calipers. Works very well. Considerably more accurate than measuring to the tip of the bullet since it's exposed lead. I'm quite pleased with how it turned out.
 
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