Military Brass

Rick65Cat

CGN frequent flyer
EE Expired
Rating - 100%
26   0   0
Location
Edmonton
How does one go about removing the "ring" in the primer hole so that the case can be re-primed?
I have some Winchester .223 cases that were given to me, (Thanks Fassteel)
And the majority have this ring in them. Is a special tool needed? Or will it just pop out?
 
Low cost option is the lyman pocket reamer(http://www.lymanproducts.com/lyman/case-prep/primer-pocket-reamer.php). It will ream them out. I use this. Best to buy it as the set with large/small rifle, and brushes, etc.

High end is the dillon swager which is supposed to be the king of the hill.

Middle ground is the one from RBCS, which broke on me on the very first case, and has been sitting there ever since.
 
I use the RCBS primer pocket swager.Been working good for about 25 years for me.Its the lee deprimeing tools that I have issue with.Broken 7 so far in large primer and two in small.Boy some of those primers are crimped in good.
 
Reaming gets tiresome if you're prepping hundreds of cases... 'Hell I get fed up after 10 or so..

The Dillon Super swage is a bargain at $100 if you have lots of brass do de-crimp. Fast & easy
'Wish I'd bought one sooner
 
I have a L E Wilson case de-burring tool. I reamed out one case by hand with just a few turns. I compared two cases, one reamed and one not by pressing in new primers. The reamed one was definately smoother BUT no easier than a factory uncrimped case. (So theres no worries about the primer "falling out" so to speak.
Thoughts?

TrimTool.jpg


Reamed on Left....Unreamed on Right
TrimmedCase.jpg
 
I did about 350 5.56 cases with a carbide ball burr, with the burr chucked in my lathe.

A drill press would work, too.

Fast. Just ran it far enough to put a nice bevel at the primer pocket mouth, and dropped the 'done' ones in a different bowl.

Figure about 2-3 seconds each.

Cheers
Trev
 
I have used the Lee primer pocket swager for about 12 years, used to use the reamer, but it became tedious, and this was a little more expensive and feels more like reloading that reaming it out. Just a personal preference. I usually do a lot at once, easier on the fingers.
 
I use the lee tool and find it works fine. Have done about 300 30-06 brass with no problem. Did mine while watching tv. If you get four loads from your brass the swaging unit would take along time to pay for it self.
 
This is about doing 70 - 80 cases. And NOT having to spend the bucks on a swager because its only that many cases.
If I had hundreds..then I might think about it.
 
I did about 350 5.56 cases with a carbide ball burr, with the burr chucked in my lathe.

A drill press would work, too.

Fast. Just ran it far enough to put a nice bevel at the primer pocket mouth, and dropped the 'done' ones in a different bowl.

Figure about 2-3 seconds each.

Cheers
Trev

I use a countersink in the drill press, running on a low speed. I just have to touch the primer pocket to the rotating countersink for a second or so each. Cheap, simple, low tech and works like a darn!
 
I use a countersink in the drill press, running on a low speed. I just have to touch the primer pocket to the rotating countersink for a second or so each. Cheap, simple, low tech and works like a darn!

Ayup.

As the depth of cut increases, the bearing surface increases and the amount of pressure required to keep the cutter cutting goes up. It sorta self-limits the depth of the cut, and makes it a fair easy job to get pretty even results without having to deal with depth stops and the like.

I used the ball burr because I had it, and it was sharp! :D

Cheers
Trev
 
Low cost option is the lyman pocket reamer(http://www.lymanproducts.com/lyman/case-prep/primer-pocket-reamer.php). It will ream them out. I use this. Best to buy it as the set with large/small rifle, and brushes, etc.

High end is the dillon swager which is supposed to be the king of the hill.

Middle ground is the one from RBCS, which broke on me on the very first case, and has been sitting there ever since.

Call RCBS and let them know. They'll likely send your replacement parts N/C, by return mail.
 
I took the Lyman tool mentioned above, unscrewed it from the wooden handle and put it in my cordless drill. Removed the crimp in no time at all. I just wore a leather glove on the hand holding the brass for better grip. Worked great!
 
Back
Top Bottom