Model 870 Ejector Repair

[SeamusMac]

Hey Folks,

Have an old beat up Wingmaster with a broken ejector. Had the repair priced by a local gunsmith and I'm not keen to spend more on the repair than the shotgun is worth so I'm looking for bubba options. Has anyone tapped the ejector and used flathead machine screws to replace the rivets, similar to the ones shown below? I'd insert the screws from the outside of the receiver to hold the ejector in place but I'm not sure how I'd keep the ejector spring in place - rectangular flat nut sanded to the appropriate thickness maybe?

Not my shotgun pictured but mine is similarly afflicted!

 

[3macs1]

No but I have done a few by taking my time and making sure I could reuse the original rivets in the gun with out removing them
Some have very little of a lip holding the spring/ejector
Pry slowly very slowly then re peen after replacement
Cheers

 

[warzaw]

No but I have done a few by taking my time and making sure I could reuse the original rivets in the gun with out removing them
Some have very little of a lip holding the spring/ejector
Pry slowly very slowly then re peen after replacement
Cheers

Good advise it has also worked for me a dozen times.

 

[SeamusMac]

Thanks fellas! Just to be clear, you pry the rivets, not the ejector - correct?

 

[warzaw]

I pry the ejector and leave the rivets alone you want the rivets to retain as much metal as you can . The ejector will fold the rivet up when it comes out and new ejector goes on then tap the rivet with a flat punch go slow and it will work out .Another tip if you are changing the ejector to convert to a 3" shell you can leave the 2 3/4" ejector and shorten the rail with a Dremel done that a few times.

 

[3macs1]

I pry the ejector and leave the rivets alone you want the rivets to retain as much metal as you can . The ejector will fold the rivet up when it comes out and new ejector goes on then tap the rivet with a flat punch go slow and it will work out .Another tip if you are changing the ejector to convert to a 3" shell you can leave the 2 3/4" ejector and shorten the rail with a Dremel done that a few times.

Same here
Cheers

 

[SeamusMac]

I pry the ejector and leave the rivets alone you want the rivets to retain as much metal as you can . The ejector will fold the rivet up when it comes out and new ejector goes on then tap the rivet with a flat punch go slow and it will work out .Another tip if you are changing the ejector to convert to a 3" shell you can leave the 2 3/4" ejector and shorten the rail with a Dremel done that a few times.

Thanks warzaw, I'm gonna give the pryin method a try. The receiver is "V" marked, which means 2-3/4" only from what I can tell so no conversion necessary but interesting to know!

 

[3macs1]

Thanks warzaw, I'm gonna give the pryin method a try. The receiver is "V" marked, which means 2-3/4" only from what I can tell so no conversion necessary but interesting to know!

Honestly the V means nothing
Lots of V were factory fitted with the 3" plus if a repair was made over the years most put 3" in at gun shops
A pic will show for sure but put a 3" in which I think is all one can get today anyway
Cheers

 

[dogzilla]

Brownells sells a tool for removing the rivet crimp. They also sell the rivets if you need them.