Model 92 Winchester Oct Barrel - Forestock Bedding?

Tudenom

CGN frequent flyer
Rating - 100%
132   0   0
Location
Prince George BC
Hello Nuts

What is your opinion on fore stock bedding on a model 92? I've been having some vertical stringing issues with mine and I'm trying to reduce that a bit.

My rifle is a Rossi model 92 with an octagonal 24" barrel, so there aren't any barrel bands the mess with. However, the front of the mag tube sits inside a guide and is pinned tight, and the front of the stock is hung from a tenon, both of which are dovetailed into the bottom of the barrel. That's a fair amount of stuff hanging off the barrel.

Not the greatest image, but functional:

1892-exploded-view-1.jpg


What would be the best way to reduce the influence of the magazine / fore stock on the barrel? Would bedding the fore stock barrel channel make improvements? Any other tips?

Thanks for the help.
 
So far I'm getting something like 5" vertical and 1" horizontal at 50m, which is nowhere near reasonable. I want to use this rife for lever gun silhouette matches, so sub 4" performance is what I'm looking for, which isn't asking much I don't think.

I plan on starting fresh and shoot the thing with no magazine or fore end, then I can add parts until the groups start opening up again. There's a chance it could be magazine spring tension or the way I'm placing it on the sandbags is throwing things out.
 
I'm assuming you are shooting cast lead bullets in the gun??? Are you shooting smokeless powder, black or one of the substitutes??? Have you slugged the barrel??? What hardness is the lead??? That's where I would start, once I figured out bullet size then I would start looking bullet configurations and lastly at powder/primer combinations. I suspect that will get you where you need to be without trying to bed the fore stock. What caliber are you shooting?

On another note are you still shooting Cowboy Action? Someday I'll have the resources to get up to your neck of the woods if there's a club. First I need to rebuild my bank account after dealing with stage 4 colon cancer. Granny One Shot and I do get out to the July 1 Palmers Gulch match so maybe I'll see you there one day.
Grey Beard
 
So far I'm getting something like 5" vertical and 1" horizontal at 50m, which is nowhere near reasonable. I want to use this rife for lever gun silhouette matches, so sub 4" performance is what I'm looking for, which isn't asking much I don't think.

I plan on starting fresh and shoot the thing with no magazine or fore end, then I can add parts until the groups start opening up again. There's a chance it could be magazine spring tension or the way I'm placing it on the sandbags is throwing things out.

I read some time ago (in relation to Ruger #1) to rest the front of the action on the forward sandbag. Just your leading hand on the forearm. Try to replicate the dynamics of an off-hand shot. Alternatively, which I do with a Winchester 94, is to press the back of my left hand against the front sandbag. My gloved hand is holding the forearm, the back of that hand is against the sandbag. If you are getting 5" of vertical at 50 yards, something is amiss!!
 
I'm assuming you are shooting cast lead bullets in the gun??? Are you shooting smokeless powder, black or one of the substitutes??? Have you slugged the barrel??? What hardness is the lead??? That's where I would start, once I figured out bullet size then I would start looking bullet configurations and lastly at powder/primer combinations. I suspect that will get you where you need to be without trying to bed the fore stock. What caliber are you shooting?

On another note are you still shooting Cowboy Action? Someday I'll have the resources to get up to your neck of the woods if there's a club. First I need to rebuild my bank account after dealing with stage 4 colon cancer. Granny One Shot and I do get out to the July 1 Palmers Gulch match so maybe I'll see you there one day.
Grey Beard

Hey Grey Beard, keep fighting and keep thinking otherwise you'll grow stale !!
Rob
 
fold up a piece of paper and wedge it between your barrel and magazine tube so that you have good pressure on your barrel and see if it changes anything. The point of aim should change but it might tighten your groups. If it does you either have something loose and moving or your load is off and your barrel is vibrating in a strange way. Every barrel has a different song and you may need to play with handloads to match it.
 
I'm assuming you are shooting cast lead bullets in the gun??? Are you shooting smokeless powder, black or one of the substitutes??? Have you slugged the barrel??? What hardness is the lead??? That's where I would start, once I figured out bullet size then I would start looking bullet configurations and lastly at powder/primer combinations. I suspect that will get you where you need to be without trying to bed the fore stock. What caliber are you shooting?

I'm using cast lead bullets from the bullet barn 25 BHN 158 grain .358 diameter round nose flat points, and 158 grain .358 diameter round nose from Oma (which I think are a bit softer). Both of them have performed well enough for cowboy action shooting, even for bonus targets which are typically 4" gongs at 20m. My 38 special loads use trail boss and my 357 mag loads use FFFg Goex. My rifle didn't seem to like 130 grain cast bullets. I can't remember what the bore diameter was when I slugged it back when I was developing my 38 special load (7 years ago), but I'm pretty sure it wasn't oversized.

The 38 specials were doing pretty good for the close up silhouettes and gongs, typically 4" rounds and pistol chickens 25 to 50 m, and pistol pigs 50 to 75m, but turkeys starting at 75m required so much hold over that I was having a hell of a time hitting them. And when I did they didn't fall over.

I figured bumping up to a good 357 mag load might do the trick, but 130 grain factory jacketed, 158 grain factory load nosed flat point, and my 158 grain 2400 and H110 loads were terrible. The only load that seemed to tighten up was 15.5 grains of H110 and the bullet barn flat point, which gave me around 1" wide by 5" tall groups at 50 m. Maybe the rifle just doesn't agree with 357 mag velocities?

On another note are you still shooting Cowboy Action? Someday I'll have the resources to get up to your neck of the woods if there's a club. First I need to rebuild my bank account after dealing with stage 4 colon cancer. Granny One Shot and I do get out to the July 1 Palmers Gulch match so maybe I'll see you there one day.
Grey Beard

Yup we are still holding a match over here in PG, but we are't a SASS registered club. We've kept it at a 5 stage main and a few side matches the next day, since we don't have enough dedicated crew to do much more. We have a kind of tri-city arrangement going between Quesnel, Williams Lake, and Prince George, so turn out is pretty good. One of these days when my son gets a little older we plan on heading back to Saskatoon to do your match, we had a lot of fun.

I'm glad to hear you are on the mend!

fold up a piece of paper and wedge it between your barrel and magazine tube so that you have good pressure on your barrel and see if it changes anything

Thanks for the tip. I'm going to go back to my 38 special load an use it as a baseline with my barrel unfettered by the mag tube and forestock, then I'll start adding parts until things start to go haywire. If the fore stock is the problem then I'll do as you suggest with the paper. It could be that when I started using black powder that my moose milk cleaner made the fore stock swell and put pressure where it didn't belong. It was a real b!tch to get the forestock off the mag tube, and the tube had some pitting on the outside, so I'm guessing some moisture got trapped in there.

Potashminer I read some time ago (in relation to Ruger #1) to rest the front of the action on the forward sandbag. Just your leading hand on the forearm. Try to replicate the dynamics of an off-hand shot. Alternatively, which I do with a Winchester 94, is to press the back of my left hand against the front sandbag. My gloved hand is holding the forearm, the back of that hand is against the sandbag. If you are getting 5" of vertical at 50 yards, something is amiss!!

I'm definitely gong to give that a try.
 
In an article or two by Mic McPherson, in the late Precision Shooting magazine, he reduces the tension from the magazine tube by thinning it out at the receiver end and then used a dab (or two) of RTV silicone on the front of the foreend where it touches the barrel.
 
Before I dismantled the fore-stock apparatus from the gun, I would fire a five shot group with an hour between shots, maybe you have done this already. It is the only way you will find out if your stringing problem really is a "heat" issue causing stress between the fore stock & barrel. Personally I think "bedding" will not accomplish much for you on a lever gun that "marries the stock to the barrel". If their is a hot barrel issue show up the place I would look at is relieving some of the pressure between the stock & the receiver where they meet, if the fit here is real tight it might lift the barrel when it heats. The other place I would check is if the barrel dovetail slot is loose for the stock tenon, if the tenon moves in the slot that may move the barrel as it heats, its doubtful that this is the culprit but there should be no reason for a front stock to influence barrel climb the way they are all designed
 
I second/third the opinion that bedding will do nothing for you ... bed it if it is too loose. really these things are designed so that there shouldn't be any pressure from another part as the fore end is really just kinda hanging there sandwiched between the receiver socket (for lack of a better term) and the fore end cap socket, the magazine tube is only really attached by that pin and lines up with another socket in the receiver... i.e. everything should be able to move slightly (!!) independently from one another.

- remove the wood and shoot it leaving the mag and nose cap in place. while you are at it give the (very good) paper wedge advice a try and see what happens.

- if you have to put a lot of force or use a mallet to get the fore end cap on to the forend and into the receiver socket to get it to line up with the tennon, use a disc sander or something to remove a bit of material from the front of the fore end. ( a "bit" as in 1/32 at a time, you don't want it too loose, 'snug' is a good description)

- you said you had a heck of a time getting the magazine out of the fore end? (fairly common actually) ream out the magazine hole and/or remove(or thin down) the web of material between the barrel channel/magazine hole. If that web is too thick/swollen it could be forcing a slight bow into the barrel ~ though I would expect your string to travel down if that were the case (it does string up ~ right?)
 
After some field testing I found out that the rifle, stripped down, with run of the mill jacketed soft point 158 grain 357 mag factory ammo, will shoot about 3" at 100m. I also found out my 38 special loads aren't as good as I thought they were, and I think they were the source of most of my problems.

Adding the mag tube didn't do much to the group but the point of impact shifted a few inches. Adding the forestock opened up the group up to about 4" at 100m.

It seems I have a bit of an alignment problem between the forestock, the mag tube, and the opening in the action for the tube. It took a lot of pressure to get everything together, and I suspect that the mag tube is slightly tweaked and it's placing pressure in places it shouldn't.

So, I'm going to relieve the hole in the forestock a bit until it stops placing pressure on the tube, that will probably help a bit. I'm also going to work on my handloads and see if I can improve on the accuracy.

Thanks for the suggestions guys!
 
Are you loading up the mag tube?
I would try shooting it single shot, so the weight on the barrel don't change.
You could also pull the tube and wood off and try that and see if anything changes.
If it does, than check the the barrel/ frame fit.
And if it is real bad, just send it to me and I send you a little money??????????????????????????

Just see the last post, sounds like what I was thinking, and you will keep the damn thing. Crap.
 
Last edited:
If it is chambered for .357 throw away your 38 Special brass and use .357 brass with lighter loads. 38's fired in a 357 chamber are never as accurate as 357 brass.
 
If it is chambered for .357 throw away your 38 Special brass and use .357 brass with lighter loads. 38's fired in a 357 chamber are never as accurate as 357 brass.

Thats very good advice Dennis.
The difference is even more apparent when loading 38's in Revolvers.
Just another logical step in trouble shooting accuracy issues that are often over looked.
Btw Dennis, wishing you a speedy recovery.(remaining positive here)
Rob
 
So far I'm getting something like 5" vertical and 1" horizontal at 50m, which is nowhere near reasonable. I want to use this rife for lever gun silhouette matches, so sub 4" performance is what I'm looking for, which isn't asking much I don't think.

I plan on starting fresh and shoot the thing with no magazine or fore end, then I can add parts until the groups start opening up again. There's a chance it could be magazine spring tension or the way I'm placing it on the sandbags is throwing things out.

I think your accuracy expectations are very reasonable. 4 MOA is not asking too much, IMHO.

Curious to see what the suggestions for a cure are.

BTW, I have a 92 with 16" barrel in 44 Mag, and it gets 3-4 MOA, a Ranch Hand that I can get minute of deer at 50 yards (A-1 for me, and I'm sure I could improve that if I made or bought a full length stock for it), a little Henry .22 that will get me 2 MOA, and a Marlin 1895 45-70 that will give me 1 MOA with LeverEvolution 325's, 2-3 with the best handload I've fed it.
 
Back
Top Bottom